If its motorcycle oil,it should be fine.ive used the mobil 1 in other bikes in the paat and havent had any problems
Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk
Clutch slipping after oil change. *No friction modifiers *
I have been working on this 2000 GL15SE for a month or so now. Nearly every system on the bike has had issues. But yesterday, I had completed enough repairs to finally ride it.
Instead of finally being able to enjoy having a functional Goldwing, I was just able to discover more problems. I won't list them all here but want to discuss the most recent one.
Long story short, I changed the oil when I first started running the bike on the stand. Mobile 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil. Before riding it on the new tires, I changed the oil again as I suspected it was diluted with gas. Per advice I had read in previous threads, rather than spending top dollar on motorcycle specific oil, I bought a gallon of Mobil-1 synthetic 10w-40 High Mileage motor oil. I made sure to grab the jug with no friction modifiers in the formula.
Now when I took it out for a spin and get on it in the higher gears....the clutch will break loose and the rpm's will shoot up. I immediately let off the throttle and coast to the next intersection. Normal operation on light throttle, but clutch slips when punching it.
What gives? (other than the clutch)
Instead of finally being able to enjoy having a functional Goldwing, I was just able to discover more problems. I won't list them all here but want to discuss the most recent one.
Long story short, I changed the oil when I first started running the bike on the stand. Mobile 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil. Before riding it on the new tires, I changed the oil again as I suspected it was diluted with gas. Per advice I had read in previous threads, rather than spending top dollar on motorcycle specific oil, I bought a gallon of Mobil-1 synthetic 10w-40 High Mileage motor oil. I made sure to grab the jug with no friction modifiers in the formula.
Now when I took it out for a spin and get on it in the higher gears....the clutch will break loose and the rpm's will shoot up. I immediately let off the throttle and coast to the next intersection. Normal operation on light throttle, but clutch slips when punching it.
What gives? (other than the clutch)
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Quit throwing money away on expensive oil and get some conventional 15/40 diesel oil. Get a can of Seafoam and pour about 1/3 of the can in the crankcase and ride it several miles using the clutch a lot then change the oil again. If that doesn't help you may need to replace the clutch friction discs.
Reading the description for this oil, it does not state whether or not it has friction modifiers. The words 'High Mileage"
concerns me though. 'Special' oils are formulated for specific uses. Since the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil worked fine before, no reason to go with high mileage stuff. As Dave said, go with the diesel oil or just Honda 10w-40. Adding first may help, but you may have to do couple of quick changes.
concerns me though. 'Special' oils are formulated for specific uses. Since the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil worked fine before, no reason to go with high mileage stuff. As Dave said, go with the diesel oil or just Honda 10w-40. Adding first may help, but you may have to do couple of quick changes.
Lots of bad things happen to a bike that sits. And without any history you don't know why it was parked in the first place. First thing I would do is make sure the clutch hydraulics are working and that the slave cylinder isn't all corroded and not releasing the clutch all the way.
If you had gas in the oil, your clutch discs will be pretty clean, but you can try the Seafoam fix. Otherwise, as Dave said, you might have to change the clutch.
If you had gas in the oil, your clutch discs will be pretty clean, but you can try the Seafoam fix. Otherwise, as Dave said, you might have to change the clutch.
Wanted to update/close this issue. The clutch itself is fine. It wasn't the oil or anything like that. The issue was the hydraulics. The pressure relief port in the master cylinder was clogged. Even though the clutch handle was firm, the blockage was not allowing the clutch to fully engage/disengage. I rebuilt the MC and went ahead and checked out the slave aswell. The SC was crusty but not too bad. After going through it all, this issue, and a few others actually went away.
These forums have been a wealth of knowledge. I don't think this bike would be back on the road if these threads and people I've found hadn't said anything. So I appreciate it.
These forums have been a wealth of knowledge. I don't think this bike would be back on the road if these threads and people I've found hadn't said anything. So I appreciate it.
High Mileage usually means it has lots of Friction Modifiers,
quit that,
go with Plain ole Vanilla diesel oil and Sea Foam,
go back and read what DaveO430 wrote
quit that,
go with Plain ole Vanilla diesel oil and Sea Foam,
go back and read what DaveO430 wrote
Agreed, as mentioned "High Mileage" means friction modifiers! Might be hard to clean these additives out! Maybe run some ATF for a while at idle to clean it out, drain and replace with proper oil.
Also agree on the diesel 15W40 oil. I've used the Rotella brand conventional oil (non-synthetic) for 20+ years now, works great and relatively cheap at Walmart. Personally, I was never sold on Mobil-1 products. I've only use it once, for a Textron UTV that specifically calls for Mobil-1 0w-40 per the user manual.
Also agree on the diesel 15W40 oil. I've used the Rotella brand conventional oil (non-synthetic) for 20+ years now, works great and relatively cheap at Walmart. Personally, I was never sold on Mobil-1 products. I've only use it once, for a Textron UTV that specifically calls for Mobil-1 0w-40 per the user manual.
That small hole in the master cylinder has given a lot of owners nasty clutch thoughts,my 1500 got to slipping in high gear pulling it out to pass,I’d bleed the system ,it would work fine for one day,
Found the slave cylinder was bad and the hole plugged
Found the slave cylinder was bad and the hole plugged
I'm sure it was the hamburgler.That small hole in the McDonald’s has given a lot of owners nasty clutch thoughts,my 1500 got to slipping in high gear pulling it out to pass,I’d bleed the system ,it would work fine for one day,
Found the slave cylinder was bad and the hole plugged
Most oils will have an API donut where the upper half is the API Service designation. The lower half details the type of oil, what is in it. If the lower half is blank there are no additives in the oil. European oils generally have no friction modifiers. Shell Rotella T-6 has a JASO designation, good for the 1500. Check your owner's manual, JASO may not even be mentioned.
The API donut you want to look for is:
![Font Circle Event Parallel]()
Bottom half is blank.
This is the oil I use. Notice the API donut lower half is blank. I use this oil in my 1200, and Spyder. Also used it in my ex-1500, and ex-1800:
![Liquid Fluid Cylinder Wood Tin]()
You do not want to use any oils where the lower half off the API donut has something in it such as this:
![Font Parallel Circle Logo Brand]()
The API donut you want to look for is:
Bottom half is blank.
This is the oil I use. Notice the API donut lower half is blank. I use this oil in my 1200, and Spyder. Also used it in my ex-1500, and ex-1800:
You do not want to use any oils where the lower half off the API donut has something in it such as this:
Lol spell check,I'm sure it was the hamburgler.
That’s funny👍
I'm in no shape to help, but...
Additives won't cause immediate symptoms like that. May be a problem with the damper plate.
Additives won't cause immediate symptoms like that. May be a problem with the damper plate.
From what he’s describing it’s the same symptoms my 1500 had
I'm in no shape to help, but...
Additives won't cause immediate symptoms like that. May be a problem with the damper plate.
You guys do realize he got it fixed?From what he’s describing it’s the same symptoms my 1500 had
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