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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
If they are out of synch far enough it is possible for the carbs to make this happen. Cold and wet on 2 and 4 could possibly be flooding on those as well which could also be the carb.

Were it me, and I am a professional mechanic by NO stretch of the imagination, I would get the timing belts on, redo the compression test with the throttle wide open (after assuring both carbs are opening with the throttle), and proceed from there based on the new compression test numbers. If they come up on 2 and 4 I think I would then look into the carbs to be sure they are synched and adjusted properly.
I think your right, I have gone around and around here with this issue, at this point there's no where else to go but to belt up and try again with throttle open, beyond that
the thought of parting out a beautiful bike is a terrible outcome. thanks.
 

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Ok now more info comes out. The fact that it is not really running on the bad cylinders changes things somewhat. Those cylinders have been flooded with raw fuel, so that could account for the poor compression readings. Once it is running they will probably get better. That you have heard leakage past the rings confirms that is where the leak is. You need to get those two cylinders firing. Get the carbs and ignition working properly. Put a teaspoon of oil in each of those cylinders and spin it over a few revs to lube the rings. I hope they are not scuffed too badly. Don't even bother with a compression test until you can build some heat in those two. They may not idle at first, but should run at higher RPM if you get the carbs and ignition working properly.
 

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*can carburetor timing effect compression to this degree 60psi difference left to right? .. does this mean replacing timing belts and starting over with compression testing, Im exhausted HA! thanks ...
Just check the compression again with the throttle open, that will tell you if carb sync is your problem. Probably need to replace the belts anyway unless you know they are fairly new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Ok now more info comes out. The fact that it is not really running on the bad cylinders changes things somewhat. Those cylinders have been flooded with raw fuel, so that could account for the poor compression readings. Once it is running they will probably get better. That you have heard leakage past the rings confirms that is where the leak is. You need to get those two cylinders firing. Get the carbs and ignition working properly. Put a teaspoon of oil in each of those cylinders and spin it over a few revs to lube the rings. I hope they are not scuffed too badly. Don't even bother with a compression test until you can build some heat in those two. They may not idle at first, but should run at higher RPM if you get the carbs and ignition working properly.
Good advice, been running it in small amounts 5min so cylinders have lubed up but as you recommend oil in cylinder is good idea, I will do that and I expect better comp. readings specially with throttles open this time for compression test, leakage past rings is normal even the cylinders with good compression had same leak under pressure, how much is the question,
but If I get good compression result this time Im good, then I will work on spark and carburetion. thanks
 

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You won't get good compression until it has been run a while. Don't even worry about it for now. Get those two cylinders going. They need to build heat. It will take some time to get the rings to seal again. If they are really scuffed, they will need to be replaced. But you have no way to tell until it has been run a 100 hours or so.
 

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??

I always tied the throttle Wide Open, when doing Compression Tests,
and made sure ALL of the spark plugs are removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
You won't get good compression until it has been run a while. Don't even worry about it for now. Get those two cylinders going. They need to build heat. It will take some time to get the rings to seal again. If they are really scuffed, they will need to be replaced. But you have no way to tell until it has been run a 100 hours or so.
I jumped ahead couldn't wait for new belts to arrive,
great news!!! installed old belts, ran compression full open throttle ...

right side ......
#1 - 170lbs
#3 - 174lbs

left side...
#2 - 165lbs
#4 - 160lbs

IT's Alive!
I have a new average across cylinders now of +-9lbs much better than 60dif between left and right! and I know it's going to get better!
it has electronic ignition I checked the coils and found Ohm's below spec. weak spark! replacing coils, going to order vacuum tester for carbs, thank you for all the amazing
knowledge I think we're back on track! thanks again I will up date progress, may take a little time$$ but will follow all your helpful suggestions, I will be in touch
for more expert help Im sure, Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Just check the compression again with the throttle open, that will tell you if carb sync is your problem. Probably need to replace the belts anyway unless you know they are fairly new.
Right again! Im back with excellent feed back like yours, I have compression now weak spark and ordering vacuum tester!!!!!!! yeah! thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I think your right, I have gone around and around here with this issue, at this point there's no where else to go but to belt up and try again with throttle open, beyond that
the thought of parting out a beautiful bike is a terrible outcome. thanks.
You nailed it!!!!!! followed instructions wide open throttle and it's a whole new world! now I get to spend more money$ , thanks.
 

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Make sure you have the wires on the right plugs too, right coil to the front cylinders, left coil to the rear cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Thanks I'm in triple check mode, wish I had discovered bad coils first I might be running now they are way below spec. range, that and dumb-A did compression without open throttle with unknown carburetor sync. it was a a perfect storm scenario but with your experienced help it narrowed down, Im on track waiting for next challenge Im sure it's coming! thanks again.
Chuck cutwater.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Make sure you have the wires on the right plugs too, right coil to the front cylinders, left coil to the rear cylinders.
That didn't take long, now I'm a problem try not to be but just saw your post re. neon coil, went on the hunt and found many brands and different number
from same brands also fit PT cruiser fit and others .. like the mod and the price anywhere from $20 to $80 question does it need the resistor as well and looks
like a plug is needed plus any mounting tips, is this a good pursuit? thanks
 

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That didn't take long, now I'm a problem try not to be but just saw your post re. neon coil, went on the hunt and found many brands and different number
from same brands also fit PT cruiser fit and others .. like the mod and the price anywhere from $20 to $80 question does it need the resistor as well and looks
like a plug is needed plus any mounting tips, is this a good pursuit? thanks
It does need a resistor, seems like I used a 1.5 ohm on the only 1000 I did. Can't remember exactly how I mounted it either but that info might be in my thread near the end.
 

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The original coils from Honda will be different specs from the replacement car one.
The idea is that when running the power is fed through resisot first to drop voltage to the 9v spec of the coil, when starting the resistor is bypassed so that the reduced batter voltage caused by starter draw is fed direct to coils giving a better spark
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
The original coils from Honda will be different specs from the replacement car one.
The idea is that when running the power is fed through resisot first to drop voltage to the 9v spec of the coil, when starting the resistor is bypassed so that the reduced batter voltage caused by starter draw is fed direct to coils giving a better spark
Just discovered I have a GL1000 but running dyna s electronic ignition, should I be replacing coils to the gl1100 that has electronic ignition?
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
It does need a resistor, seems like I used a 1.5 ohm on the only 1000 I did. Can't remember exactly how I mounted it either but that info might be in my thread near the end.
I just discovered Im running a dyna s ignition , should I be running gl1100 coils for electronic ignition? easy swap easy on the wallet..
will that again need the resistor as well. Chuck cutwater
 

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I just discovered Im running a dyna s ignition , should I be running gl1100 coils for electronic ignition? easy swap easy on the wallet..
will that again need the resistor as well. Chuck cutwater
You could use 1100 coils. Depends what year, 80-81s had a resistor, 82-83 did not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
You could use 1100 coils. Depends what year, 80-81s had a resistor, 82-83 did not.
You could use 1100 coils. Depends what year, 80-81s had a resistor, 82-83 did not.
Great information! found many 82-83 coil replace options on eBay and Amazon I'd rather do away with the resistor, thanks for that one, good stuff!
 

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Great information! found many 82-83 coil replace options on eBay and Amazon I'd rather do away with the resistor, thanks for that one, good stuff!
Oops, I got that backward, it's the 82-83 that has the resistor.
 
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