Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Cracked Valve Cover GL1500

3K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  us385south 
#1 ·
imported post

Okay! It is official! I have a VERY small little crack in the right hand valve cover that I can only assume happened when the bike fell and crimped the floor boards against it while I was in Georgia last summer.

This thing is barely perceptible... so tiny that I didn't even notice it last summer when I removed the valve cover to address the leaking. (Which at the time I assumed was the gasket.)

Has anyone had any luck using heat resistant silicone, JB Weld or some similar product on the inside of parts like this? From the outside it is practically indistinguishable.
 
#2 ·
imported post

I tried JB once upon a time on a final drive drain plug with a similar problem on my old shadow. I think they're pretty much the same material. It didn't work for poop. I've heard rumors of folks who are really good and can weld or braze cast aluminum, but I ain't one of 'em :sadguy:. If I was you I'd start huntin' ebay for a new one.

But hey, there's plenty of folks on here that are way better than me, so maybe you'll get lucky and get a miracle suggestion.
 
#3 ·
imported post

The key to getting any kind of patch or repair to work is getting the surface COMPLETELY clean and free of oil.

I would think that if anything would work it that situation it would be silicone.
 
#4 ·
imported post

I'm of like mind here... I understand the properties of good adhesion but I may be able to work out a different plan.

I have good connections with a place in Seguin called Alamo Group. I have heard from more than just a few sources that the welders over there have friendly competitions. It seems that a few of the old masters can weld together aluminum cans. Impressive.

These are they guys I need to talk too... here's a video I found on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVhxehycsFw

Then have the things powder coated with the money I;d have spent on a used one...
 
#5 ·
imported post

I'd still go the sealant route... I'd use the same stuff they line the inside of homebuilt wet-wing aircraft tanks... several products available... If it stands up to fuel, it ought to take oil

(and even if they can weld it, I'd expect heat discoloration..)
 
#6 ·
imported post

sandiegobrass wrote:
I'd still go the sealant route... I'd use the same stuff they line the inside of homebuilt wet-wing aircraft tanks... several products available... If it stands up to fuel, it ought to take oil

(and even if they can weld it, I'd expect heat discoloration..)
Nice suggestion...

Any suggestions or links on a material?

Dope 'em from the inside or the out?
 
#7 ·
imported post

us385south wrote:
sandiegobrass wrote:
... I'd use the same stuff they line the inside of homebuilt wet-wing aircraft tanks... s
Any suggestions or links on a material?
Dope 'em from the inside or the out?
POR-15 is a common one... and Aircraft Spruce list a bunch.. course you'd need something that comes in small containers. this stuff is not cheap...

and goes on the inside..

and if you want to try something a lot cheaper, I've had very good luck permanently sealing non-structural small cracks and porosity with the hardening Permatex (I think it is Permatx #1)... I sealed a pressurized oil passage in an aluminum block that had a hairline crack (sealing from the inside) with this stuff in 1995.. still running today with no leak..
 
#8 ·
imported post

I had a crack in my left valve cover due to my accident last year, I cleaned the valve cover with solvent, sanded the area around the crack, and JB welded it, and it didn't leak for over a year, and probably never would, but since I had a new valve cover, I finally replaced it this past June. If you take your time, and prep the area well, and make darn sure there is no oil in the area to be fixed at the time of the repair, until it sets up for 24 hours, JB weld will work great, but you need to follow the instructions to a T. I onced fixed a leaky radiator with it and ran it for 3 years with no problems, also fixed a hole in a oil pan, and never had any more problems. Just take your time.:smiler:

Gene:action:
 
#9 ·
imported post

You got sumpin agin duct tape, fella?

Well, ifin ur gonna be a sissy 'bout it, I spose JB Weld would do the job too.It'll jus' take a lot longer an' you'll have to clean 'er real good so's it'll stick. Wouldn't hurt to grind on the surface to rough it up some, too.
 
#10 ·
imported post

grind out the inside spot... leave it rough and clean repeatedly then use brake cleaner then jb weld
 
#11 ·
imported post

us385south wrote:
Okay!  It is official!  I have a VERY small little crack in the right hand valve cover that I can only assume happened when the bike fell and crimped the floor boards against it while I was in Georgia last summer.

This thing is barely perceptible... so tiny that I didn't even notice it last summer when I removed the valve cover to address the leaking.  (Which at the time I assumed was the gasket.)

Has anyone had any luck using heat resistant silicone, JB Weld or some similar product on the inside of parts like this?  From the outside it is practically indistinguishable.

For all the more that it would cost...take it to a reputable welder (shop, yellow pages) and have him or her tig weld it. JB is good, but IMHO...a "temp" repair, it could progress beyond its immediate condition "in a heart beat" and leave you stranded.
Norm
40+years Structural Technician.
 
#13 ·
imported post

Just on a lark I placed a bid on one at eBay this morning... won the bid at $12.50 + 17.00 shipping...

I be figguring I can't beat that. Mischief managed.
(Since Dennis is talking all country like... I figgured I woudt too!)

Still gonna powder coat em though...


 
#14 ·
imported post

id still be riding a horse if it wern't for ebay and craigslist for parts.
 
#15 ·
imported post

Grambo...

I seem to be getting better at knowing how to bid... and as I plan to powder coat it anyway, how it looks isn't really an issue. First thing I'll do is blast it with glass beads.
 
#17 ·
imported post

ok..just make sure the gasket channel and r-box surfaces are perfect and sterile and glue or whatever the new gaskets on perfect and you should be oil tight ..otherwise it prob leak at the gaskets...reusing used gaskets can go both ways
 
#18 ·
imported post

Circle pilot... nope... just the right one for that price. Still feel I did okay... course I ain't seen it yet.

Grambo... I was figuring to replace the cover gaskets and the cone washers anyway. Iffin i'm gunna pull it all apart... ah mut as well do it right. Lock it up and be good for another 70K...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top