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1983 Gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,
I have an 1983 Gl1100 I’ve been looking for a solution to this, but no one seems to have this problem.
My crank seal is leaking while my bike is running, i’ve replaced both of my cam seals and this seems to be the only other reason i have oil dripping from the middle of my timing covers.
When I try the recommended “put in gear and hold the rear brake” method of removing the pulley bolt, the pulley still wants to spin. Besides the leak the bike runs great, and I did put 7k miles on it since i got it last year.

Big question is why isnt the rear end locking up the crank?
Was a free craigslist find i’ve titled and massaged back into life but i’m putting a quart in the bike every 40 miles or so, so i figure it’s about time to just fix the leak all together. My next idea is to get a big powerful impact and compressor and put a 5 pound pulley socket on it and pray it goes back on the same way.

Big question is why isnt the rear end locking up the crank?

any advice would be appreciated!

thanks,
Freebird Commander
 

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2003 Red Goldwing 1800
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160 Posts
Does the crank turn if you put the bike in gear and turn the rear tire? From what you describe it sounds like the trans is in neutral.
 

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1983 Gl1100
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Does the crank turn if you put the bike in gear and turn the rear tire? From what you describe it sounds like the trans is in neutral.
Yes it does. I’ve tried it in first gear and in 5th and it still wants to spin, which makes me a little concerned based off of what i have learned about how it SHOULD work. Just not sure how this could be happening. I also tried to hold the drive shaft in place but it still wants to spin.

typing the last line made me think it could be the driveshafts fault, someone did destroy the final drive before i got to it so maybe it caused damage to the driveshaft inside the block? Still confused on how it’s been running so well the past 7k miles.
 

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Clutch slipping.
 

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1983 Gl1100
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Clutch slipping.
What would I do to correct this? I replaced my clutch plates before I really started riding it but that was about 6k ago, would they already need to be replaced? Or is the lack of oil in the engine causing it to slip like that? It’s empty right now because I figured i would have to do drain it to get to that point.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Okay, I found out you're from PHX area...
The clutch...Did you change the damper plate and did you use OEM plates.
 

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2003 Red Goldwing 1800
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160 Posts
Do you hear a ratchet type noise when you try to loosen the crank bolt, you said that the original rear drive was destroyed is it possible that the output teeth were rounded off?
 

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What would I do to correct this? I replaced my clutch plates before I really started riding it but that was about 6k ago, would they already need to be replaced? Or is the lack of oil in the engine causing it to slip like that? It’s empty right now because I figured i would have to do drain it to get to that point.
Is it properly adjusted, a little slack in the cable.
 

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1983 Gl1100
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay, I found out you're from PHX area...
The clutch...Did you change the damper plate and did you use OEM plates.
I did change the entire basket assembly out for one off of ebay that was intact, I did use the cheapest clutch plates i could find though. I have no issues with the clutch while riding though, i’ve been able to rip on it pretty hard without it slipping at all.
 

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1983 Gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you hear a ratchet type noise when you try to loosen the crank bolt, you said that the original rear drive was destroyed is it possible that the output teeth were rounded off?
It doesn’t seem like it, it does feel different going left than it does right though. Wouldn’t the output splines being rounded affect the way the ride feels?
 

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1983 Gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Do you hear a ratchet type noise when you try to loosen the crank bolt, you said that the original rear drive was destroyed is it possible that the output teeth were rounded off?
Do you hear a ratchet type noise when you try to loosen the crank bolt, you said that the original rear drive was destroyed is it possible that the output teeth were rounded off?
looking at it again today it does have almost a dull ratchet type click sound when i try to loosen the bolt.
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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That sounds like driveshaft or rear wheel splines.

Another way to stop the engine from turning is to get one of the cylinders toward TDC on the compression stroke, then back the piston down toward the bottom of the bore turning the crank clockwise as viewed from the front of the bike. Then feed as much cotton clothesline rope as you can get into that cylinder. Use a coat hanger or other wire to help push the clothesline in there. Then when you turn the crank counter-clockwise to break the bolt loose that piston will try to compress the clothesline and stop.

Reason to be sure the cylinder is on compression stroke is both valves will be closed. Otherwise you could bend an open valve.
 
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1988 Honda GL1500
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The very early 1000 did not have a greaser on top of the pinion casing where the drive shaft sliding joint is and the joint could wear out in 10-15,000 but never heard of it on a later one.
Could the wheel bearings be bad allowing the spline drive to lean?
 

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1983 Gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That sounds like driveshaft or rear wheel splines.

Another way to stop the engine from turning is to get one of the cylinders toward TDC on the compression stroke, then back the piston down toward the bottom of the bore turning the crank clockwise as viewed from the front of the bike. Then feed as much cotton clothesline rope as you can get into that cylinder. Use a coat hanger or other wire to help push the clothesline in there. Then when you turn the crank counter-clockwise to break the bolt loose that piston will try to compress the clothesline and stop.

Reason to be sure the cylinder is on compression stroke is both valves will be closed. Otherwise you could bend an open valve.
I think i’m going to try a massive air wrench set up before i try that, but i will note that technique. As far as the splines are concerned, they go the right direction perfectly fine and with more than enough torque for my taste, so if i can get this seal replaced i’m going to call it good until something else happens. I’ll keep this thread updated.
 

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If you don't have access to an impact wrench pull the boot back from the front of the driveshaft and put a bar through the U-joint. If it is a spline slipping instead of the clutch that should do it unless it's the output shaft spline, which I doubt. I know it's a pain to put the boot back on but it is doable.
 

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1983 Gl1100
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you don't have access to an impact wrench pull the boot back from the front of the driveshaft and put a bar through the U-joint. If it is a spline slipping instead of the clutch that should do it unless it's the output shaft spline, which I doubt. I know it's a pain to put the boot back on but it is doable.
Well my boot is about half ripped off to begin with so i have full access to it, however it seems to be slipping somewhere inside the block rather than at the u joint.
 

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The rope trick will block the crank, so if something downstream is slipping it won't matter.
At a junkyard once I was trying to remove a crank bolt, and not having anything to block the piston, I had a soda, so I used that. Just pulled a spark plug, poured in my soda, and put the plug back. The hydrolock was good enough to be able to bust loose the crank bolt.
 

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Soda may work fine at a junk yard... But this is a running engine. IF going that route I would suggest to use oil.
 

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Well my boot is about half ripped off to begin with so i have full access to it, however it seems to be slipping somewhere inside the block rather than at the u joint.
I'm getting old but it seems like I mentioned the clutch.
 
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