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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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Discussion Starter #1
Can the gears for the timing belt be welded to the cam shaft?
One of the gears has a 1/8 inch play. This is enough to give me an engine knock.


The key ways have been worn down. I do not see a way to redo the key ways.


So I have thought about getting a welder to weld the gear to the shaft.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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I think you could shim them with tempered steel.

Turn the pulley so its left keyway edge is tight against the key, you should be able to tighten the holding bolt and have no play. All the force is rotational from the crank pulley, so if the bolt is tight, it shouldn't be able to move around.
 

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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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Discussion Starter #7
I do not see how any of the key have been replaced. If I could do that what size and how do I get the old key out?
 

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With the slop you have described you should be able to slide the gear off without any problems after the bolt is removed.

To remove the key from the shaft, a small hammer and a punch should let you GENTLY tap it out of the groove. The moon shaped key should start coming out if you tap staight back on it. I prefer trying to tap at an angle to pop the front edge upward. Also sometimes helpful is to use a small screwdriver once the key starts lifting to get between the key and the shaft.

Be careful not to drive anything too hard and damage the seals around the shaft.
 

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If the key is still tight in the cam all you need is a new gear wheel & maybe a new key, or it may be only the key worn.
 

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Alaskan Explorer on a Valk
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Discussion Starter #12
The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.


These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.




So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
 

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The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.


These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.




So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
The Huntington Beach website does not show keys but the drawing for the crankshaft shows a key slot.

I would assume they have keys since 1200 does.

From the 1200 service manual "If the bolt is properly torqued and one or both of the pulleys is loose, disassemble and inspect the pulley keyways for wear."
 

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The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.

These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.

So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
Have you synchronized the carburettors?
 

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I would try many options before welding the crankshaft. Pull the belts, radiator and crank pulleys to see what's wearing. Perhaps you should re-title this with crankshaft pulleys rather than camshaft pulleys to not mislead potential advice. My guess is that the pulley has worn its slot some. Replacements are cheap and plentiful. A good mechanic/ machinist could take risks make a wider key and pare it down with a file to fit both snugly.

Welding it could be the last straw.
 

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With the slop you have described you should be able to slide the gear off without any problems after the bolt is removed.

To remove the key from the shaft, a small hammer and a punch should let you GENTLY tap it out of the groove. The moon shaped key should start coming out if you tap staight back on it. I prefer trying to tap at an angle to pop the front edge upward. Also sometimes helpful is to use a small screwdriver once the key starts lifting to get between the key and the shaft.

Be careful not to drive anything too hard and damage the seals around the shaft.

Diagonal cutter pliers are good tools for removing those keys , - just grab it in the end and lift the plier as a pry bar .
 
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