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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm pretty sure this has been covered, but a few searches didn't turn it up, so I figured it might be worth posting up - it may be useful to some.

I picked up another 97 GL1500SE. Guy said the cruise wasn't working. I tested it and indeed it didn't work. When I turned on the key all the usual dash lights turned on briefly - EXCEPT the Cruise ON - for the test sequence. Pressing the Cruise on switch would NOT illuminate the light. I'd read somewhere that part of the proper operation of the cruise is getting a certain amount of resistance from the Cruise ON bulb.

So, I took the dash apart, found the cruise ON bulb was burned out and replaced it with another incandescent bulb. I replaced most of the other bulbs (and the top 3 back light bulbs) with LED's. I'd read that an LED may not provide the fix for the cruise ON (any confirmations on this out there?), so I used a regular bulb. Went out for a test ride today and the cruise is now working.

So, if your cruise isn't working AND the cruise ON bulb does not light up during the test sequence one of the easy tests (other than the time/hassle getting the dash apart) is to check the bulb, and probably replace the remaining bulbs with LED's while you're there.
 

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I'm pretty sure this has been covered, but a few searches didn't turn it up, so I figured it might be worth posting up - it may be useful to some.

I picked up another 97 GL1500SE. Guy said the cruise wasn't working. I tested it and indeed it didn't work. When I turned on the key all the usual dash lights, Except the Cruise ON turned on briefly for the test sequence. I'd read somewhere that part of the proper operation of the cruise is getting a certain amount of resistance from the Cruise ON bulb.

So, I took the dash apart, found the cruise ON bulb was burned out and replaced it with another incandescent bulb. I replaced most of the other bulbs (and the top 3 back light bulbs) with LED's. I'd read that an LED may not provide the fix for the cruise ON (any confirmations on this out there?), so I used a regular bulb. Went out for a test ride today and the cruise is now working.



So, if your cruise isn't working AND the cruise ON bulb does not light up during the test sequence one of the easy tests (other than the time/hassle getting the dash apart) is to check the bulb, and probably replace the remaining bulbs with LED's while you're there.
I think you are correct about the LED for the Cruise. There has been some discussion and pretty much most came to the same conclusion you did. The LED's won't work in this application or the set light as well.

Maybe it is just me but this part of your original post confused me until I read it several times. " I turned on the key all the usual dash lights, Except the Cruise ON turned on briefly for the test sequence. I finally figured out you are saying that all of the lights worked properly during the bulb test, except the Cruise On. It did not light. It might just be me but maybe reword it so others can take advantage of the good info you offer.
 

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At an other forum, there is an information about the conversion of bulbs to LEDs. And according to that info, I haven't tried yet, the cruise on/set and low fuel level lights need the resistors below to be connected PARALLEL to the +and - ends of them.

Cruise On, Cruise Set: 1K Ohm, 1/4 watt
Low Fuel: 470 Ohm, 1/2 watt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think you are correct about the LED for the Cruise. There has been some discussion and pretty much most came to the same conclusion you did. The LED's won't work in this application or the set light as well.

Maybe it is just me but this part of your original post confused me until I read it several times. " I turned on the key all the usual dash lights, Except the Cruise ON turned on briefly for the test sequence. I finally figured out you are saying that all of the lights worked properly during the bulb test, except the Cruise On. It did not light. It might just be me but maybe reword it so others can take advantage of the good info you offer.
Good point, I've reworded it.

I'm glad it was just a bulb (even it it was a bit of time getting it all apart to get to the bulb.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
At an other forum, there is an information about the conversion of bulbs to LEDs. And according to that info, I haven't tried yet, the cruise on/set and low fuel level lights need the resistors below to be connected PARALLEL to the +and - ends of them.

Cruise On, Cruise Set: 1K Ohm, 1/4 watt
Low Fuel: 470 Ohm, 1/2 watt
Thanks for posting that info. In the back of my mind, I thought there was another bulb that I should NOT replace with an LED (unless I had the right resistors) - but I couldn't recall which one and why, so I just went with my gut and did not replace the Low Fuel light with an LED.
 

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the lamps for the CC ON, and the Set burn out so infrequently, you won't have to worry about it again.
On the 1800 wing you can dim the dash lights for day riding and that will help the life of the bulbs but on the 1500 there is no adjustment but they are dull anyway.
I turn on the CRUISE ON as soon as I get the bike and never shut if off. Of course the most miles I ever put on 1 wing was 108,000 miles but I have owned 7 wings and never had a light burn out. Just lucky I guess.
 

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I have changed their color to green, which seems beautifully dim in dark, but hard to see under sunlit.

Also the OD light, because I didn't like the original poor color of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have changed their color to green, which seems beautifully dim in dark, but hard to see under sunlit.

Also the OD light, because I didn't like the original poor color of them.
I used regular white LED's - the dash warning lights are brighter now - I can see them easily in the sun, but are maybe a touch bright at night. The backlighting is better, but a little overpowering on the top section of the gauges, but works better for me than the dim lighting that was there.
 

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I used regular white LED's - the dash warning lights are brighter now - I can see them easily in the sun, but are maybe a touch bright at night. The backlighting is better, but a little overpowering on the top section of the gauges, but works better for me than the dim lighting that was there.
Keep in mind that, if you have hot spots on the gauges, that is because of the type of the LEDs. There are LEDs which have concave lens reflecting the light to the sides rather than front.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Keep in mind that, if you have hot spots on the gauges, that is because of the type of the LEDs. There are LEDs which have concave lens reflecting the light to the sides rather than front.
The ones I used look like this: http://www.carpartslights.com/images/t10-5 smd.jpg
Because they have 5 LED's, they should distribute light fairly similarly to a regular bulb. I think they're just a lot brighter and therefore create the hotspots. Attached is a pic (garage lights off, no flash, dash lights on). You can see the hot spots at the top left and top right. I'm quite ok with it, particularly since 0-140KM/h is well lit (I'm not generally riding past 140...) and the tach is lit in the important ranges as well...

Before the LED's, the 160-220 range on the speedo was about the brightness of the entire speedo and tach.

The camera really doesn't pick up the LCD - it's much, much more readable than the picture show.
 

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The ones I used look like this: http://www.carpartslights.com/images/t10-5 smd.jpg
Because they have 5 LED's, they should distribute light fairly similarly to a regular bulb. I think they're just a lot brighter and therefore create the hotspots. Attached is a pic (garage lights off, no flash, dash lights on). You can see the hot spots at the top left and top right. I'm quite ok with it, particularly since 0-140KM/h is well lit (I'm not generally riding past 140...) and the tach is lit in the important ranges as well...

Before the LED's, the 160-220 range on the speedo was about the brightness of the entire speedo and tach.


The camera really doesn't pick up the LCD - it's much, much more readable than the picture show.

Yesterday, I bought those for the front position lights next to the headlight. They are too bright to be used in dash panel, I think.

Haven't you replaced the ones for the LCDs?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yesterday, I bought those for the front position lights next to the headlight. They are too bright to be used in dash panel, I think.

Haven't you replaced the ones for the LCDs?
I replaced the top one in the LCD (same bulbs as the others). Oddly, to the human eye, it's much brighter, but the camera just doesn't pick it up. I didn't replace the bottom bulb, since you have to take the IP partially apart, I think, to get to it. Next time I'm in there, I'll probably replace the bottom backlight bulb in the LCD.
 

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I replaced the top one in the LCD (same bulbs as the others). Oddly, to the human eye, it's much brighter, but the camera just doesn't pick it up. I didn't replace the bottom bulb, since you have to take the IP partially apart, I think, to get to it. Next time I'm in there, I'll probably replace the bottom backlight bulb in the LCD.
It is quite easy, you will have to remove speedometer and then LCD screen. If I am not mistaken it was a smaller size bulb.
 
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