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Cruise control problem 1994 GL1500

2846 Views 16 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Dannyboy1949
My cruise control button will not not stay in if I push it in and hold it cruise does work-Sorry I didn't give enough info 1994 1500 Aspencade-Anybody got pics of dismantling this switch-I read somewhere that there is a spring that goes bad-Can't find any spring on internet for goldwing-thanks in advance Rich
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had the same problem with mine. I got a can of brake cleaner and sprayed around the switch and let it dry. switch would engage and stay there after that. I then just left my cruise switch in after that.
First of all I'm guessing this is an 1800, you don't say. It usually is not the spring but dirt. Brake cleaner will work but I prefer to use an electrical contact cleaner like QD from the electrical section at Home Depot. Just spray a lot all around the out side of the switch trying to force it into the spaces around the switch. Work it in and out a few times. It will eventually start working as normal. Then once you get it "on" leave it there! There is never reason I've heard of to turn it off.
We need to know the model Goldwing Rich. Kindly edit your thread title or post so we can give you the right information.
1994 1500 Aspencade


I fixed the title...
Surely not "brake cleaner" on plastics and switches?
cruise control problems

Here is the full scoop of what happen to cruise control-bought the bike about a month ago and my brother-in-law drove it home for me and cruise worked like it should but cruise button stayed in and light was always on so taking multiple advises and spray lubricants seemed like what most suggested so I sprayed a WD-40 oil on button and kept pushing it till it finally started coming out by itself then it came out but won't stay in-Anyone take this apart or is it a dealer project???-Rich
As stated above, once you get the button to stay in & the cruise light is on, LEAVE it on. There is no reason to turn it off....-Rich
Rich, my experience with these switches is if you can't fix it easily, replace the handlebar switch as an assembly. If one switch is failing, the others probably aren't far behind.

From a dealership standpoint at the current labor rates, it's not worth spending time trying to fix a switch that is likely destined to fail again in the near future for one-third the price of replacing it new and being done with it.

Sometimes if you're persistent enough and continue to push the cruise button repeatedly it will eventually stay in. If you've just tried to fix it with WD, it may help to give it a day and try again.

The other option you have with that particular (cruise master control) switch, is to go directly to the handlebar switch coupler and short the correct wires with a jumper wire. Of course then you won't be able to shut it off.
Its not a big deal taking the switch apart. Three screws on the bottom of the housing and it will wiggle apart. Nothinwill be flying out. The switch is right there. Use some electrical contact cleaner and clean it out good working the switch in and out. Cover the bike ofcourse. "I" would not use brake cleaner. I have seen it melt plastic before. You could lube the throttle cables a bit too. I do when I have it apart but I usually pull the cables apart and force feed the lube in. Dri Slide is what I use. Good luck. Let us know how you fare with it.
Its not a big deal taking the switch apart. Three screws on the bottom of the housing and it will wiggle apart. Nothinwill be flying out. The switch is right there. Use some electrical contact cleaner and clean it out good working the switch in and out. Cover the bike ofcourse. "I" would not use brake cleaner. I have seen it melt plastic before. You could lube the throttle cables a bit too. I do when I have it apart but I usually pull the cables apart and force feed the lube in. Dri Slide is what I use. Good luck. Let us know how you fare with it.
That's what I meant by 'fixing easily'.
I'm not sure leaving the master cruise switch on full-time is the obvious solution for everybody. In theory it might be possible to hit the set button by mistake and get into trouble so I imagine some of us want the ability to turn the cruise system off completely and forget about *that*.

My experience with the cruise on and sound mute switches was that some sort of greenish grease they put on at the factory sort of thickens over time and then interferes with normal operation. This problem is not a fatal one and you can clean this deposit and get the switches working normally again.

Most seem to suggest that you can drown the whole switch compartment with contact cleaner and wait for it to drain/dry/evaporate. To target the cleaning more precisely you can also unscrew the inside elements of the switch but you need to watch out for some very small springs which tend to fly off and get lost.

Finally, I've read that it's not a good idea to combine WD40 or other generic petroleum lubricants with plastics or rubber because it damages them.
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Where can I get a picture of the inners on the cruise control-I hate to take it apart and have springs flying all over-Rich
Where can I get a picture of the inners on the cruise control-I hate to take it apart and have springs flying all over-Rich
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/392427-gl1500-turn-signal-switch-fix.html
I'm having a similar but different problem. My cruise switch won't stay engaged, but my bigger issue is that cruise does not come on when I push the button in. Nor do I see the cruise lights come on at start up. The fuse appears to be the same as the ignition, so it can't be the fuse. Anyone have any advice on how to troubleshoot?

Mine is a 92 Aspencade.

Thanks
Scott
I agree with vtxcandyred about taking the cruse control switch apart. I have taken apart every switch on both of the handle bar switch clusters. I need to get in the habit of taking pictures when I do such a job but I never do. Sorry.

Just remove the two screw that hold the handle bar switch cluster together. The cruse switches will be easy to get to since they are on the top half. Then remove the screw holding the particular switch that you want to clean out and work the switch out of the housing. Do not unsolder the switch from it's wires. Yes the switch will come out. You may have to remove the cruse set switch as well. I don't recall if it gets in the way of removing the cruse on/off toggle switch. Again don't unsolder the switch. With the switch out of the housing and dangling from it's wires clean the switch body so you can inspect it. The switch body is made out of two plastic parts that snap together. The reason you are inspecting the switch is to figure out how to pry it apart. One plastic part will have little square holes into which wedge shaped aspects of the other plastic part fit into. There will be at least to but maybe three. The plastic body parts are plenty soft so don't worry about breaking anything when you pry the little wedges out to get the switch body apart. Just make sure when you are doing this that you don't lose any of the interior switch parts. Take your time.

Now that you have the switch in two parts again inspect. Maybe take a picture. One part will simply have contacts onto which the external wires are soldered. The other part will have all the springs, little bits and moving parts. If I recall correctly the guts of this switch includes a little wire. This wire produces the click on / click off toggling action of this switch. This wire has to go back in the right way or the switch won't work on reassembly. Make sure you understand how that wire goes back in before you take it apart further.

If you make it this far now all you have to do is clean all the parts, lubricate with a little silicone spray and reassemble the switch in the reverse order. If the unit still does not click on and off you got that little wire in wrong. Once the switch is working correctly reassemble the handle bar cluster in the reverse order.

Dissembling and cleaning all the other switches in that cluster are much easier since they don't click on and off. The starter switch is the hardest but only because you have to remove the throttle cable to get to it.

I hope that helps.
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Several 1500s I've seen, including mine, show the "Cruise" light on all the time...i.e. the switch internally is stuck in the ON position I guess. Me...I'll let sleeping dogs alone on this issue. If my cruise didn't work, as yours doesn't, I'd do anything needed to fix it... LOVE that cruise control feature!
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