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So yesterday I decided to try to wrestle that annoying problem pulling current from the bike. I finally narrowed down the fault to somthing downstream from the 7.5 Amp fuse in the fairing pocket, and by some trial and error narrowed it further to the stereo deck itself. When the deck is removed, the current draw is practically nil, a 20-30 mAmp, which makes sense since it has to keep the clock on the trip computer going. With the stereo in the deck, and the key off, the draw is well above the 250mAmp range that my ammeter can handle.

This probably explains why the stereo doesn't work too.

I've taken apart the fairing to get at the rear connector of the stereo and sprayed contact cleaner, but that hasn't done anything.

The seller tells me that the deck itself has been checked out by a tech, and it works fine.

So any ideas what to look for next, any manuals out there on trouble shooting the stereo?

Thanks for the help!
 

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I'll definitely be picking up the Electronic Supplement (I have both the Haynes and Clymer manuals). But an early jump, would definitely help, especially if anyone's had the same problem.
 

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Its possible that your rectifier may have a diode failing which is raising the level of AC ripple current that is applied to the rectified voltage. Every component has a fault tolerance for ripple current which somewhat masks the problem.

Once you go beyond the design spec for the stereo or any device it may draw more current or fail all together. Unfortunately the only way to gauge this is with an Oscilloscope or to see if the rectifiers are inordinately hot.

Also double check for shorts in the final stage of the stereo (speakers or headset). Even a catwhisker of a wire can be a nuisance.
 

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davesaul wrote:
So yesterday I decided to try to wrestle that annoying problem pulling current from the bike. I finally narrowed down the fault to somthing downstream from the 7.5 Amp fuse in the fairing pocket, and by some trial and error narrowed it further to the stereo deck itself. When the deck is removed, the current draw is practically nil, a 20-30 mAmp, which makes sense since it has to keep the clock on the trip computer going. With the stereo in the deck, and the key off, the draw is well above the 250mAmp range that my ammeter can handle.

This probably explains why the stereo doesn't work too.

I've taken apart the fairing to get at the rear connector of the stereo and sprayed contact cleaner, but that hasn't done anything.

The seller tells me that the deck itself has been checked out by a tech, and it works fine.

So any ideas what to look for next, any manuals out there on trouble shooting the stereo?
davesaul , I presume you are doing your testing with the radio turned off & headset removed?

If so then there's a good possibility your problem isn't in the radio itself but maybe with the tape player part. I haven't worked with those Clarions but have a friend that had problems with his & it turned out to be a problem with the tape player part staying on with the radio off. You might try pulling the radio cover & disconnecting different functions while testing for a lower parasitic draw.

Twisty
 
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