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I think I messed up my GL1500. I was in heavey traffic and stopped waiting for a Cager to turn left with asses whipping around me like I wasnt even there. When I got the chance I hammered down and got the hell outta Dodge. Immediatly I noticed a knocking noise comming from my lowerleft toe area only when sitting still at a light. When I start out from a stop and let the clutch out I get a jerky jumpy start right off the line and then it smoothes out and the noises are gone until the next light. I don't hear any difference when it is in gear, outta gear, clutch is in or out.



Did I toast my clutch? Did I bend something inside?



I have been having a clicking noise that I addressed in another post but this is totally new and different.
 

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I don't think so.

I drove my 1500 like it was a dirt bike, nearly all the time. wrap it out hard until the limiter kept it from going any higher.

It never complained.

The only thing you might have done, was in the tenseness of the moment, you may have jammed the shift forks a tad bit too hard.

If it is still shifting like it always has, I would just drop the oil, change the filter, and keep riding.
 

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OK, that gives me mixed emotions. On one hand I feel better about the durability from your experiences with yours but on the other hand (Being a newbee to goldwings)
jamming the shifter forks too hard sounds bad and I dont understand how changing out the oil and filter will fix jamming damage to the forks. I trust you but I just dont make the connection other than possible metal frags in the oil. Any more explanation on why and what damage I did that might not go away?
 

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I would agree, I fail to see where an oil and filter change would have any effect on jammed or bent shifter forks.

If you revved it up pretty hard, there is a possibility a little piece of carbon could have flaked off and might be laying on top of a piston causing the knocking noise.

Let me tell you a little story about that...........

One day when working on my wife's 1973 Olds, I revved it up pretty hard. Immediately, it started knocking when idling. I called my brother-in-law who is a pretty good mechanic. He advised to poor a bottle or two of water down the carburetor while keeping the RPM's up a little. I did and the knocking stopped.

The cold water dissolved the carbon on the top of the piston and all was well.

Another thing you may want to check is the manifold mounting bolts. A friend of mine was absolutely convinced he had a valve problem making a tapping noise particularly at idle RPM's. Then one day while doing some maintenance, he noticed the nuts holding the exhaust header to the engine were loose. He tightened them up and that fixed his valve problem..........

Just a few thoughts.
 

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just to rule out a bent shifter with the engine running put it in first gear while holding the clutch in put your toe under the shifter and put a little pressure up not enough to make it shift to second and see if the noise goes away
 

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Great suggestion. I will try that in the morning. I am at the station tonight so unless I get a Vacation night I am stuck here till 8am. I will let you know what happens.



THANKS!;)
 

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you may just have moved the toe shifter to hit the exhaust manafold it fits in between it and is a tight fit what year is your bike
 

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Its a 1988 but what makes me think something big is screwed is the jumpping or lurching when taking off in first. Almost like the clutch is grabbing and releasing really fast. An almost shaking start out if that makes since. Once it is moving the noise is gone and the jumping is gone. I will check the shifter though, I cant lose. Thanks!
 

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you may not be engageing in first the whole way and what is happening is when you let go the clutch its slipping into position its self the differance of in gear fully and not is only mm
 

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ThFireman wrote:
I dont understand how changing out the oil and filter will fix jamming damage to the forks.
You're right, an oil change won't "fix" anything. My interpretation of what AZ said was, to inspect the drained oil/filter to look for signs of internal damage.

If something transmission related is going 'south', it should have ferrrous particles as evidence that can be drawn from the oil/filter with a clean magnet...if clutch related, the magnet may not help at all, but you might see things suspendedin the oil like fibers or "brass-colored" flakes, which of course, do not belong there! :waving:
 

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The engine oil lubricates your clutch.

Pour in a half can of Sea Foam, run the bike for a 100 miles, then drain out the oil and change the filter. that will clean out any fragments that might be loose and dis-solvable.

Make darn sure you don't use Energy Conserving oil
 

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I don't think it's a shift fork problem, sounds more like a clutch problem to me since it smooths out once the clutch is fully engaged. The clutch really isn't doing anything once it's fully engaged but when starting out the plates are slipping past each other. If a plate is warped or there's some friction material caught in between plates it would make for an erratic engagement. I'd agree, change the oil, cover your oil catcher with a cloth to strain out any particles or chunks. If you find some pieces of clutch friction pieces you'll have your answer. I'd also cut open the oil filter and look for metal or other debris. Changing a clutch is a PIA but not as difficult or expensive as internal engine damage. At least if it is the clutch it isn't necessary to split the case.

BTW I don't think your laying the whip on the old girl was the real cause of a clutch problem if that's what happened. Most of us have done that a time or two or twenty. If your clutch did give up the ghost it was due to a fault in the clutch itself or perhaps it was abused by a previous owner.
 

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My 2 cents...When , if ever, was the drive line taken apart and lubed/ inspected with Moly 60? I have seen many bikes come in for new tires and I can't help myself not to inspect the drive line and always it was in need of Moly60. Past post I saw here the poor guy was stuck on the side of the road with sheared drive line teeth. Possibly it is a skip in the drive-line when torque is applied to the drive shift. Worth looking into either way as I can almost promise you servicing there will be needed.
 

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Hey dude I get on my 89' 1500 so hot one time that it made the hags at the dmv stare at me through the door. Nope you prob bad a clutch issue all along. It was just waiting to show up.

Also I run the highest octane gas I can get. Cuz there bikes are made to run that not the cheap stuff.
You dont wanna play with bad fuel.

does the bike Jerk at all when you drop a gear to pass ?
 

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GSMacLean wrote:
Electro_cat wrote:
Also I run the highest octane gas I can get. Cuz there bikes are made to run that not the cheap stuff.
You dont wanna play with bad fuel.
You should really attempt to have some clue as to what you're talking about before trying to make completely inaccurate statements like that here.
I also agree with GS. I 'm not sure I would have been so tactful though.:shock: :cheeky1::cheeky1:
 
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