[dean_3326]

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Is the Dave Campbell wiring harnessthe way to go or not?

Please tell me your opinions and experiences with the Dave Campbell Wiring Harness,, I am wanting to put it on my bike, even though I am having noproblems,,,I just want to prevent a stator problem later on if that is possible....he says it will help a number of things including stator problems.

 

[Dave Campbell]

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No, its a real piece of junk.I actually saw one installed and the paint fell off.

 

[jsmith24]

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Hi Dean,

I've been considering it for my GL1100. I'm not having any real trouble either, but I'd sure rather prevent a problem than try to cure one, especially if it's a hard-to-trace problem that appears to be fuel, but may in fact be electrical.

I'm pretty literate in this area, and what Dave says on his site makes sense. As soon as I can get my rear in gear, he'll have some moneyfrom me. I'm rebuilding my bike (have been for about a month), and I figure I may as well do it while I've got her stripped to the frame anyway.

Just my two cents...

Jack

 

[jsmith24]

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Dave Campbell wrote:

No, its a real piece of junk.I actually saw one installed and the paint fell off.

Hee hee...now that's just plain mean, Dave! Still funny, though.

 

[Budegan]

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Sounds good. It's worth the $25 for peace of mind. I've seen them fitted but at the time had never heard of Dave Campbell. You could spend $25 and more on bits of chrome and other useless items that are probably already rusting.

 

[philcsand]

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Well, dave should be sending me mine today...

All the paint falls off, eh? That would be interesting. I'd have the ultimate Naked Wing!

 

[RedWinger]

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[axelwik]

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Why fix it if it's not broke?

 

[Goldwinger1984]

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Maybe not fix it or replace parts axelwik, but, at least get in there and maintain the stock connections.

Vic

 

[jsmith24]

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axelwik wrote:

Why fix it if it's not broke?

Well, knowing that most of the 1100 and 1200 bikes had wiring/stator trouble, or at least corroded connections after 20 years, it doesn't hurt to use a little preventative maintenance now and again.

Hey Goldwinger, just a thought - we could easily spend $10-15 in parts alone, then have to solder the thing and figure out the various connections, too. Heck, $25 is a steal.

Jack

 

[Brojees]

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Well I have been communicating with Dave and he appears a straight up sort. His technical knowledge appears sound and I have confidence in what he says.



I also have a bit of experience in electrical and I believe I would recommend his product. In fact I may consider one myself if I do not simply fabricate my own.

 

[Brojees]

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Just kidding Dave, at $25.00 it is not worth sourcing the parts my own self.





By the way though I do get the 50% discount for promoting your product right? That on top of the 75% discount for board members means you owe me only $6.25 and a harness.

 

[dean_3326]

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Ok Dave, I will watch the paint very close after I get it installed, I had a feeling you might have a comment when I posted the question....You need to inform Mr 1200 you are the inventor of the harness and that he paid double for the one he is using....I hope he doesn't get stranded when a relay on the old harness sticks open..I was hopeing to hear from some folks who have your harness already installed....Later,

Dean

 

[RedWinger]

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[Dave Campbell]

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Mr.1200 wrote:

I Have this Harness on my wing for over three years, http://www.electricalconnection.com/wire-harnesses/hrns_gl1200_charge.htm

Read the article....These people provide great customer Service.....

Yes it costs $25 more,But your getting a quaility product...

Quality?

1.) Crimped connectors to fail. That was the original problem

2.) Relay armature to bounce and stick, leaving you with no ignition power (it happened to me)

3.) The bit about the "increased gauge of wire" is utterly false. The longest run of wire carrying high current (in the repair harness) is about 2 feet (between regulator and battery). If the original regulator wiring is (for example):

12 gauge = 0.081" diameter, 1.59 ohms/1000 feet = 0.0016 ohms / foot = 0.0032 ohms/2 feet

and they increase it to

10 gauge = 0.1" diameter, 1.0 ohms/1000 feet = 0.001 ohm / foot = 0.002 ohms/2 feet

thats a decrease in resistance over 2 feet of about 0.0012 ohms. "Times" that by 30 amp (max the system can source for a maximum) and the larger gauge wire drops:

- 0.0012 ohms x 30 amp = - 0.036 volts.

None of us ( me included) have a voltmeter that can even measure a 0.036 volt change. Not to mention the regulator is there to compensate for changes in voltage, so if the change was within the hysteresis of the regulator, it would not be seen.

Besides that, anyone out there ever seen the wires in a GL fail? Sorry, the engineers that designed the original wiring arent ThAt stupid....

Which proves ECare preying on those without engineering knowledge to catch them at their false advertising.

This "wire size" is a similar scam to the "ignition capacitors" someone is trying to sell to unsuspecting 2-stroke riders. $200.00 for a capacitor placed in-line the spark plug with the utterly fradulent claim that "it increases ignition energy." :gunhead:That violates the laws of physics. A capacitor cannot increase energy.

Seriously, EC is selling what I abandoned years ago because it was plagued with potential failures. It was the second prototype I designed, with an extra $10.00 in useless/needless parts to fail. The relay is there to switch the coils in and out, but it also adds 4 more crimed connectors to fail. Failing crimps are the original problem, why go through it again?

You's guys would soil yourselves if you knew how much $ in parts was in the stupid thing. Its less than you think. Yeah, I sell them for about what you could buy the parts for, it isnt about making money. They never did sell well at $ 40.00 or over, so I abandoned that and lowered the cost.



BROJEES: HOw can I argue with that logic? Cheques in the mail after I finish paying Steve off for my Guru status. That was EXPENSIVE!!!

DEAN: Hey, meybe I can advertise it as "paint remover!" The larger wire removes paint faster!!:action:

 

[dean_3326]

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Mr 1200,

I sure do not claim to know who is selling the best product, that is the main reason I posted this is to be darn sure I am not going to regretputting on anyharnessand having any problems because of it.:shock:

. You are the first person who has said anythingabout theEC harness.

. My whole purpose here is to do the best thing to preserve my Baby....re:[ my Wing]...She is only 10,000 miles old and the reason I started this post was to get information on what is the best way to try to prevent the stator problems. I appreciate any information I can get.

Thanks,Dean

 

[dean_3326]

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Dave,

I had no idea I was opening a new use for your harness ie: "paint remover"......ha,,, you know that old fashioned paint remover is awful messy and this will be quicker too....why didn't we think of it sooner? Do you put the red wire on the frame and the green wire on the battery?

Dean

 

[exavid]

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Dean, the simplest way to resolve this dilemma is to leave the bike wiring as it is. After all it's been running for a long time with factory wiring and as you said you aren't having any problem with it. I really can't believe the folks who designed this bike were all that incompetent. Keep an eye on the connectors and wires when doing routine maintenance and you probably can go for many more years without any changes.

 

[RedWinger]

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[dean_3326]

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Paul,

thanks,

Dean