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Ya'll have helped me before, and everything has worked that you have suggested/advised, and I am appreciative of that. Hate starting a brand new post, but I am at the last straw.

In my previous post around 07/09, I asked about getting alternator out. That's old news, now!!!!

Here's my problem.....

88 GL1500

First off, as previously stated w/alternator dilemna....no Honda dealer around here really seems interested in working on it. As one said, "I've got techs who weren't even born when that thing was made." OK, good & dandy...but I need some help!!!

Brand new battery...matter of fact, 2nd brand new battery , as I thought the first one was "bad". Evidently itmay not have been.

Full charge, load test when revved up only showed 12.9volts. That's when the alternator issue came in. Removed the alternator, took it to shop, and they completely rebuilt it.....brushes, etc. Mounted it, made sure battery was up & charged, and it started perfectly. At idle, almost 13v. Rev it up, and it would sho w 14+v.

With that, I think life is good. Brakes were somewhat spongy, so bled front/rear, and take off.

Life was not good. Exactly 50 miles down the road, stereo cuts off, instrument panel starts blinking (clock, radio station id, etc), and it dies. Member of AAA, and tow truck brings me home. Been home long enough to check volts, and battery was at 10v. Came in here, logged on, and typed this out.

Can anybody offer a suggestion as to what might be the problem. We are in a drought here in Texas, and my County is under a burn ban, so I cannot go out there & torch it!!!! I am a State Trooper, and I would hate to have to call my Sgt & tell him I'm in jail because I put my motor in the middle of my pasture, torched it, and violated the burn ban!!!!

Thank ya'll so much for any suggestions-

dotman
 

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dotman5614 wrote:
Ya'll have helped me before, and everything has worked that you have suggested/advised, and I am appreciative of that. Hate starting a brand new post, but I am at the last straw.

In my previous post around 07/09, I asked about getting alternator out. That's old news, now!!!!

Here's my problem.....

88 GL1500

First off, as previously stated w/alternator dilemna....no Honda dealer around here really seems interested in working on it. As one said, "I've got techs who weren't even born when that thing was made." OK, good & dandy...but I need some help!!!

Brand new battery...matter of fact, 2nd brand new battery , as I thought the first one was "bad". Evidently itmay not have been.

Full charge, load test when revved up only showed 12.9volts. That's when the alternator issue came in. Removed the alternator, took it to shop, and they completely rebuilt it.....brushes, etc. Mounted it, made sure battery was up & charged, and it started perfectly. At idle, almost 13v. Rev it up, and it would sho w 14+v.

With that, I think life is good. Brakes were somewhat spongy, so bled front/rear, and take off.

Life was not good. Exactly 50 miles down the road, stereo cuts off, instrument panel starts blinking (clock, radio station id, etc), and it dies. Member of AAA, and tow truck brings me home. Been home long enough to check volts, and battery was at 10v. Came in here, logged on, and typed this out.

Can anybody offer a suggestion as to what might be the problem. We are in a drought here in Texas, and my County is under a burn ban, so I cannot go out there & torch it!!!! I am a State Trooper, and I would hate to have to call my Sgt & tell him I'm in jail because I put my motor in the middle of my pasture, torched it, and violated the burn ban!!!!

Thank ya'll so much for any suggestions-

dotman
As you say burning it right now is not an option :ROFL: so pull the alternator and take it back to the shop that rebuilt it.
It could be as simple as a failed regulator and yes new parts can go wrong.
If it's something they installed/did the fix will be free.
 

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did you check your main fuse.. I dont know a lot about 1500s. But the way you describe it sounds like a fuse blew..Do you get any power now when you turn the key on or is it a dead stick. Fuse I would check first.. then main ground and pos cables of the battery.
 

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As Ken said I would take the alt back to have it tested. Also I would check the ground wire to the frame of the bike. Follow the ground wire from the battery to the frame and make sure it is not corroded and is tight.

Let us know the out come....

Also thanks for your service as a trooper.....

My youngest son is a Deputy Sheriff in Jefferson County Alabama.

Be safe out there !!!
 

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I agree this is sounding like a bad mainground somewhere. Also, the wires that go to the alternator, and the main dogbone are suspect to me. Something intermittant like that, and is sucking the life out of the battery so quickly, sounds like a ground is loose/corroded. The dogbone fuse can be intact, but still bad. There should be a spare hidden in the cover for the same fuse. Then,if all the grounds are good, then I'd be thinking charging system harness, or the rebuilt alternator may have indeed failed. Sucks, but it happens. Man I know this sucks for you, and I hope you find it soon. I know how it feels to see ride time fade away due to a sick bike. Good luck, there's a ton of smart guys that will get you up and running. jimsjinx PS....
 

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Thanks so much to everybody, and all the kind words. I sincerely appreciate it. I will begin tracking stuff down as ya'll suggested. Hate doing this, but going to embarass myself again. What is the "dogbone" fuse, and where might it be?
Thanks again, and ya'll Stay Safe-
dotman
 

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dotman5614 wrote:
Thanks so much to everybody, and all the kind words. I sincerely appreciate it. I will begin tracking stuff down as ya'll suggested. Hate doing this, but going to embarass myself again. What is the "dogbone" fuse, and where might it be?
Thanks again, and ya'll Stay Safe-
dotman
Instead of a glass or plastic enclosed fuse the one referred to as a dogbone is just a strip of lead smaller in the middle and with the ends slotted for attachment. Where it's located on a 1500 I don't know.
 

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On my 1500 it is under a black plastic cover right beside the battery. I think there is also another one under the seat, but my memory fails slightly at this time of the morning.
 

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Yes it is located under the little black cover next to the battery. If by chance you do not have a spare (mine did not have one) you can get a 30 amp spade fuse holder and attach the wires on either side of the dog bone fuse holder. Then you can use a regular 30 amp spade fuse.
 

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Goldwings 4 ever wrote:
On my 1500 it is under a black plastic cover right beside the battery. I think there is also another one under the seat, but my memory fails slightly at this time of the morning.
> The one under the seat is in the middle (widthwise) of the bike, and inside of a 3/4 x 3/4 x 2" long plastic box, just forward of the shocks.

> You should consider getting a Voltage Meter mounted to your bike, so that you could discern such charging problems long before having the bike break-down on you.
 

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The dogbone under the seat is a 65A and could be used as a temporoary spare for testing - it's part of the reverse system and would have nothing to do with this issue ...
 

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I'll start checking everything each of you have mentioned/suggested. May take me a while, but I'll "git 'er done"!!



Ask me how to inspect a truck or bus for Safety Violations or being heavy, I can do it with my eyes closed. Working on this thing, other than the regular maintenance, etc, I have to stand back & look at it a while a nd say, "Where do I start? Does this come off first, or does that piece come off first?"



As I first stated, ya'll have been great, very informative, and it's obvious there is an enormous amount of knowledge present here, but above all.....very patient & courteous with your responses. I have never in my life had a problem with this motor, until now, and the sad thing about it is that I have been the one & only owner "since it was born"!!! Don't mind telling you that this is frustrating!!!



Thank you again-

dotman
 

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I had problems with a rebuilt alt,the guy missed the fact that the rotor was shorted.i had it on and off the bike three times before he found it.so just because its rebuilt it may not be working.
 

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If you are using a reputable motor repair shop, rewind shop or a company that repairs alternator and starter machines for a living, that shop must give you a read out document that is a test result of your rebuild.

That document is part of the repair and tells you the machine meets certain specifications normal in the motor repair industry.

The read out paper will indicate every possible function and result. There will be no forgetting of anything. The repair is complete and the readout verifies the completeness.

Now with that, you can do the same with the remainder of the bike to bring every aspect of the electrical system back to as new condition.

Not doing all your due diligence is going to be half a$$ed and create grief for you the bike owner. The repair and the bike must then be brought together and the repair person will look for an out if warranty is needed. The read out document becomes your assurance of a good job, and you must be sure of your own work.

Otherwise you are left with doubts and more work.

If you for example buy a rebuilt starter motor for your car, bike or truck, that motor will come with a record, a typed paper showing every detail about loading, amps voltage at differing loads. The paper is now your proof of warranty that you have a good rebuild. This is the normal paper trail in the industry.
 

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Dotman,

This may not be a part of your problem at all, but it did kill my friend's GL1500 on the road time-after-time until we found it and fixed it.

The battery he bought was not specifically for his GL1500, so it did not fit tightly in the battery bay when he tightened up the bracket over the side of it. The battery would wiggle around after riding enough that it would intermittently loosen up one of the battery terminals and stop the bike dead in it's tracks.

Besides the bad fit of the battery his second problem was that he had way too many ring terminals (wires) attached to his battery terminals for running accessories. As such, there was very little thread on the battery terminal screws actually engaging and holding the screw in. Between that and the wiggling battery, the terminals would loosen up enough to lose contact and shut off the bike!

Like I said, may not be your problem at all, but thought it worth a mention just in case.
 

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Hi dotman, here is a pdf file from the 94 GL1500 service manual for the tests to troubleshoot the charging system. This may not be exactly like your 88 model but should be very similiar. If you have questions about this, just come back and post them. We will try to help.
 

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Time to get a manual , best money you will ever spend on her.
To test your alt., connect a multimeter set to DC voltage to your battery . You should read approx. 12V with motor NOT running . Start up , warm up , then rev. to 2500 - 3000 rpm. you should read approx. 13.5 - 14 volts. If reading is closer to 12v., your alt. is not charging and needs to be serviced " again " .
Let us know how it goes.
 

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The symptoms you described..loss of stereo, loss of instraments, and dying...sounds exactly like my wife's 89 trike last year...I thought it was the battery...long story short, it was the brushes in the alternator.
I think you still are having alternator problems even though you had it rebult.....Take it back and have it checked out.
Keep us posted.
 

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You should also be buying a factory service manual. The one for my '93 was around $60.00 and has paid for itself many times over.



It will have all the electrical schematics as well.
 

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machinehead wrote:
To test your alt., connect a multimeter set to DC voltage to your battery . You should read approx. 12V with motor NOT running . Start up , warm up , then rev. to 2500 - 3000 rpm. you should read approx. 13.5 - 14 volts. If reading is closer to 12v., your alt. is not charging and needs to be serviced " again ".
According to the factory service manual, there is one more step to do a complete test of the charging system, as follows:

Remove the main (dogbone) fuse from the fuse holder next to the battery. Connect an ammeter across the terminals of the fuse holder. With the engine running at 1,850 RPM you should get a minimum of 1.5 Amps indicated. If not, the alternator output is not sufficient to charge the battery.

***
 
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