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Once I put in Amsoil, the bike ran cooler, better gas mileage, and had more power. Plus, I don't have to change it but once a year! So, Amsoil is clearly the better choice!! !!

Been there, done that stuff....
it will not run cooler. the temperature of the engine is controlled by a thermostat.

Better Gas Mileage? doubtful....
I have a spreadsheet that covers over 4,000 miles, and every trip I took, the mileage was different on each tank of gas.

there is simply no way to Scientifically prove that a motorcycle is going to do better on a differnet grade of oil.... there are too many variables in each trip.

The Better Choice? Only in your own mind.... Amsoil does not have any special blends that are not also met by the other oil companies.

Like I said above, I was once an Amsoil Dealer. And I know the spiel they push...

You will NOT be allowed to talk about the performance of Amsoil on this forum again... you are a dealer, and that is a commercial for a product.

'nuff said...

Contact an administrator, send them a check, and become a Paid Sponsor.
Then you can have your own Sub-Forum and advertise all you want.

but until that happens, you cannot advertise on this forum, period.

and you will note, your Avatar advertising that product vaporized and changed into a GL1800.... I like yellow, so it is a yellow 1800.
 

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Been there, done that stuff....
it will not run cooler. the temperature of the engine is controlled by a thermostat.

Better Gas Mileage? doubtful....
I have a spreadsheet that covers over 4,000 miles, and every trip I took, the mileage was different on each tank of gas.

there is simply no way to Scientifically prove that a motorcycle is going to do better on a differnet grade of oil.... there are too many variables in each trip.

The Better Choice? Only in your own mind.... Amsoil does not have any special blends that are not also met by the other oil companies.

Like I said above, I was once an Amsoil Dealer. And I know the spiel they push...

You will NOT be allowed to talk about the performance of Amsoil on this forum again... you are a dealer, and that is a commercial for a product.

'nuff said...

Contact an administrator, send them a check, and become a Paid Sponsor.
Then you can have your own Sub-Forum and advertise all you want.

but until that happens, you cannot advertise on this forum, period.

and you will note, your Avatar advertising that product vaporized and changed into a GL1800.... I like yellow, so it is a yellow 1800.

Just when I was starting to enjoy the pitch John.>:)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks to everyone who replied with some great info. I will attempt to educate my dealership guy and explain to him that synthetic is ok on the goldwing.

I ended up going with this:

It's a kit made for the goldwing, comes with everything I need and is the Honda oil the bike recommends in a synthetic variant.
 

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Yeah, I got the same kit. I liked it and it even has the washer.... What do you folks think...should the washer be changed every time?? (BUAHAHAHA.....).
 

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I'm gonna use Motul... because it's red, French, smells funny, costs more, and comes in liters instead of quarts.

:claps: :claps: :claps: :claps: :claps:


>:) I love it when an Amsoil Dealer shows up and starts to shove their spiel down our throats...

As I mentioned, I have gone through their Indocrination Course.... by the time you finish up that thing, you will think that AmsOil is God... :grin3:


.
 

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Yeah, I got the same kit. I liked it and it even has the washer.... What do you folks think...should the washer be changed every time?? (BUAHAHAHA.....).
It is suggested to change it every time, I do because I have lots of them. If it will slip off the plug easily it's fine to re-use though.
 
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I always changed the crush washer with every oil change on my 1500. I look at it as once it is used it may no longer be any good, one time use only.
 

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Been there, done that stuff....
it will not run cooler. the temperature of the engine is controlled by a thermostat.

Better Gas Mileage? doubtful....
I have a spreadsheet that covers over 4,000 miles, and every trip I took, the mileage was different on each tank of gas.

there is simply no way to Scientifically prove that a motorcycle is going to do better on a differnet grade of oil.... there are too many variables in each trip.

The Better Choice? Only in your own mind.... Amsoil does not have any special blends that are not also met by the other oil companies.

Like I said above, I was once an Amsoil Dealer. And I know the spiel they push...

You will NOT be allowed to talk about the performance of Amsoil on this forum again... you are a dealer, and that is a commercial for a product.

'nuff said...

Contact an administrator, send them a check, and become a Paid Sponsor.
Then you can have your own Sub-Forum and advertise all you want.

but until that happens, you cannot advertise on this forum, period.

and you will note, your Avatar advertising that product vaporized and changed into a GL1800.... I like yellow, so it is a yellow 1800.
plus 1 for the forums.:)
 

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Amsoil

I know you are trying to sell the stuff and that's fine but I tried it myself and saw no difference in it and conventional oil. In fact my trans shifted smoother with Rotella T5. I'm sure Amsoil is good stuff but it's simply not worth the expense to me and it gets dirty just like any other oil so I will not leave it in my engine that long.

I have used Rotella in my other bikes, but found that Amsoil gives me much better shifts, runs cooler, and has rust and corrosion protection. Rotella and Mobil 1 do not have rust or corrosion protection. I have left in my engine 3 times what Honda states the oil should be change. I took a sample of the oil, and had it tested. The oil came back still good, 45% effective. So that is why I use Amsoil.
 

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I have used Rotella in my other bikes, but found that Amsoil gives me much better shifts, runs cooler, and has rust and corrosion protection. Rotella and Mobil 1 do not have rust or corrosion protection. I have left in my engine 3 times what Honda states the oil should be change. I took a sample of the oil, and had it tested. The oil came back still good, 45% effective. So that is why I use Amsoil.
Shields at 45% captain, we can't take much more of this. :ROFL: Do you actually expect us to believe an engine oil has no corrosion or rust protection? I was born at night but not last night. As you have been informed you can pay your dues and register as a vendor if you want to sell this stuff.
 

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Not true.


Just because the dealer(s) that you have been to have techs that you think might know less that average, its un-fair to make the comment you made. I go to two dealers in my area, and the techs know these bikes very well. Maybe its that you think you know more? I will ask one of the techs I know and see if Honda school has a class: "All Honda Motorcycles, less the GoldWing".





Honda makes (has made for them) and sells oil MADE FOR THESE BIKES!!! In my 30+ years of riding Hondas, always using Honda oil, NEVER an oil related issue!!


Sure, save a few bucks with cheap-o crap oil, and cross your fingers!!




Bill
That is unless you have them do a warranty repair that requires engine removal. I wonder how you would feel if they scratched up your 2012 near mint bike. They more often don't know or, worse, don't care. They know very little compared to this forum. Every problem will have a solution on this and most other forums. The answers are here!

As for oil, keep it changed at regular intervals. 4K on just about any oil made with today's technology probably retains 4 times the modifiers of oil made 30 years ago. Oil and tire threads should be deleted as soon as they are posted. They all just go nowhere but in circles.
 

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Oil and tire threads should be deleted as soon as they are posted. They all just go nowhere but in circles.
I can't much disagree with that.
 

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Advertising Is Against Forum Rules

I have used Rotella in my other bikes, but found that Amsoil gives me much better shifts, runs cooler, and has rust and corrosion protection. Rotella and Mobil 1 do not have rust or corrosion protection. I have left in my engine 3 times what Honda states the oil should be change. I took a sample of the oil, and had it tested. The oil came back still good, 45% effective. So that is why I use Amsoil.

As Dave just said, this is your absolute LAST CHANCE AT REMAINING A MEMBER OF THIS FORUM.

You will NOT in any way make any claims for Amsoil in this forum, you are a blatant Vendor, and it is against the Forum Rules which you have NOT bothered to read.... or you would NOT be making statements like this.

There is no way an oil is going to make a water cooled engine run cooler period. The thermostat takes care of that job.

Think what you want about Amsoil, but I told you before, I used to be an Amsoil Dealer and all you are doing is spouting off the same damn rhetoric that they pushed on me back in 1981.... and that is against forum rules.

IF you want to be a Vendor, do what I already told you, Purchase a Support Sponsor membership and have at it, you can advertise in your own private sub-forum, but never, ever in any of the regular forums.

I normally do this with a PM, but you have ignored my PMs, so this one is in Public ON PURPOSE.

.
 

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Maybe you have not explained it clearly to the salesman? In my experience they sometimes need it explained in little words. The ones that do not listen anyway. I am good with ones that listen and respect others.
 

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Oil Documentation: synthetic vs. dyno

Maybe you have not explained it clearly to the salesman? In my experience they sometimes need it explained in little words. The ones that do not listen anyway. I am good with ones that listen and respect others.

It was explained in very clear language further back.
and in a PM...

all that aside, the cost of having an 'oil analysis' done negates the "savings of using any synthetic oil".

the oil needs to be changed out at regular intervals to negate the effects of combustion and water condensation products.

I'm not against synthetic oils, I have it in the F-150 and in a '07 Pontiac Vibe... both because I was told to do it that way or else.... and SWMBO'd gets the last laugh... 0:)

The F-150 has been on syn oil for 229,000 miles, so who am I to say no to that?

The Vibe has been on syn oil since it was new and the title is in SWMBO's name.... :x

neither vehicle seems to use any oil between changes, so I'm not knocking "success" as it were.

Oil discussions are fun, and we all have a chance to learn a lot.

I have two threads to another forum that documents the effects of many different types of oils... and in the end, that user could not make a claim that synthetic is "god's saving grace" for the oil to use.

Here is his 1st thread and the start of his documentary:

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?593745-Energy-Conserving-Oil-Jaso-MA-oil


Here is his 2nd thread and the end of the documentary and his conclusions.

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?230852-Oil-Analysis


and here is an explanation of the different Viscosity ranges.


http://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Graph.html
 

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synthetic oil is fine for 1500 and 1800 wings, friends of mine use it, although it maybe advisable to use caution, with the earlier wings, as it may cause leaky seals. I tried it in my 1200 and indeed had some seals go out. Some say that maybe the seals where bad already, which may be true, but I never had an issue beforehand.

I also felt the bike didn't run well on it either, but strangely after switching to a semi synthetic, it runs really nice.
 

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I've been using Mobil T-1 10w-40 full synth for +50k miles and no issues. I ride anywhere between 5 and 125 degrees and change oil between 6 and 7k miles. As I understand its the only oil used in my bike after the break in change, but I'll never know if it is better or worse or if any abnormal engine wear is occurring until its too late... I really don't foresee and issue and I'm not cracking the case to find out without good reason. On my previous bike I used Castrol GTX as somebody mentioned earlier but it had a dry clutch! Castrol GTX has friction modifiers and that is by definition energy conserving; Castrol only recommends its "Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40" for Goldwings, I would assume that is because we have wet clutches. Frankly the other rust preventative oils make me scratch my head as oil itself should be rust prevention by itself, but my wing isn't parked long enough for dust much less rust!
 

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If rust is forming inside the crankcase, there is a lot more wrong than just the "type of oil".

Any old garden variety oil of the proper grade and viscosity that does not have friction modifiers in it, will work just fine in our slow turning Goldwings. Change it often and go on

That said, some oils seem to work better with our transmissions.
 

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Folks interested in Oil topics should go to the Bob the Oil Guy website. Everything you'd want to know about oil and then some.

There is a difference in dino and synthetic motor cycle oil and it is primarily in the way they are formulated. For the purposes of our discussion Dino oil starts out as a base stock of 10 or 20 weight ( first number ) and then has additives added to it to make it work like a 40 or 50 weight oil when hot, ( second number ). Synthetic is the opposite, starts out as a 40 or 50 weight oil and then has additives added to make it act like a 10 or 20 weight when cold,

As the dino oil's additive package is used up it tends to thin, moves more towards the lower number and as the synthetic additive package is used up it tends to thicken, moves more to the higher number.

There has been lots of good work done over the years with respect to motorcycle oils, but it still boils down to use what the manufacturer specs and change it regularly. There are some advantages to using synthetic over dino, mainly in the two extremes - very cold and very hot. So when you first start your engine you'll get better lubrication and it won't burn off as much at higher temps.

So as a lot of things with bikes, use what makes you happy, the bike really doesn't care that much, just change the oil & filter regularly.
 
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