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The F-150 has been on syn oil for 229,000 miles, so who am I to say no to that?
You have ridden in my 94 chevy with 245,000 miles and I have always used whatever oil I happened to pick up in it, always in the proper 5w30 grade dino oil. It has never even had a valve cover off. Would you think a synthetic would have done better?
 

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You have ridden in my 94 chevy with 245,000 miles and I have always used whatever oil I happened to pick up in it, always in the proper 5w30 grade dino oil. It has never even had a valve cover off. Would you think a synthetic would have done better?
Nope, I think that falls under my caveat of:
change it regularly and it don't matter.
 

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I've been using Mobil T-1 10w-40 full synth for +50k miles and no issues. I ride anywhere between 5 and 125 degrees and change oil between 6 and 7k miles. As I understand its the only oil used in my bike after the break in change, but I'll never know if it is better or worse or if any abnormal engine wear is occurring until its too late... I really don't foresee and issue and I'm not cracking the case to find out without good reason. On my previous bike I used Castrol GTX as somebody mentioned earlier but it had a dry clutch! Castrol GTX has friction modifiers and that is by definition energy conserving; Castrol only recommends its "Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40" for Goldwings, I would assume that is because we have wet clutches. Frankly the other rust preventative oils make me scratch my head as oil itself should be rust prevention by itself, but my wing isn't parked long enough for dust much less rust!

Castrol GTX 10W40 does not contain friction modifiers. Some of the other viscosities of GTX do contain friction modifiers. GTX 10W40 has been spared because of its popular use in motorcycles with wet clutches.


Scott
 

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This is an oil thread. I just took in a Polaris Phoenix ATV for whatever it needed. This was my first experience with a Polaris machine. The oil recommended for these machines is strictly Polaris. These Polaris fluids have fancy names and are labeled and sold without a clue to what they are, or the viscosities that they are, or the API standards that they meet. Engine oil change kits are sold for these machines that include the oil filter, two quarts of oil, $50 and more. After 1-1/2 days of searching and talking with my friend who runs an independent shop I have settled on 75/90 gear oil for the forward/reverse transmission and rear differential, and any adequate MC motor oil for the engine, I'll use Castrol GTX 10W40. My friend said that he has come to the same conclusions and uses these oils in Polaris service all of the time. It would have cost over $100 to buy a filter, two quarts of engine oil, two separate quarts of lube for the trans and rear end for this little 200cc machine, according to Polaris. According to Polaris they have re-invented all vehicle fluids.......threaded nail them.


Scott
 

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Convenient advertising for Polaris :)

as long as the buyer believes them, they have it made.
 

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Convenient advertising for Polaris :)

as long as the buyer believes them, they have it made.

More rant, oil thread, right? I don't see how this is helping their "brand". This is greed at its worse. Frequent oil changes? I don't think so, not at $50 a shot for a 13hp machine. Scheduled oil changes? Maybe not. People using bad alternatives resulting in catastrophic failures, how can this be good for their reputation? Product loyalty and repeat customers, I don't see how this could even happen.


Scott
 

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Wow! This thread got ugly. But it's kinda par for the course on any automotive forum as well.


Only 2 reasons I am posting this is to say on a water cooled engine, yes the thermostat controls the temperature. But it is the COOLANT temperature that it regulates. Since coolant does not circulate into the crankcase, it is the oils job to cool the rotating assembly (crank and pistons). Thus the reason for oil coolers in some applications.


#2 I did my own big test on Amsoil in a Mitsubishi Montero I had years back. For 3000mi, I used Valvoline Dura-blend 5W30. Used the same pump at the same gas station for almost all fill-ups. No other changes were made during this time period of 6000mi. The first 3000mi section had 2 tanks that were pure highway. Otherwise, just back and forth to work...daily driving. I averaged 19.2mpg over that 3000mi.
Changed the engine, trans and rear diff over to Amsoil products. Covered another 3000mi, and tallied an average of 20.5mpg This 3Kmi stretch did not have all highway tanks involved. Just daily driving. Now, I don't believe the engine oil by itself will make much, if any, noticeable improvement in mileage. But when that vehicle was traded in, the dealer appraiser thought it stalled while stopped because of how smooth it felt. So he proceeded to make that lovely starter grind noise.
That Montero and a Nissan I had were my guinea pigs to see for myself if that stuff made a difference. And in my experience, it has.
I will absolutely not condemn the idea of use whatever and change it regularly. Because it works just fine. I run an auto repair shop, and know that is the case. We all have our personal preferences, and sometimes the emotions of those preferences interferes with what our fingers end up trying to translate onto the keyboard. As well as, how what is written is perceived by the end reader.


For the Wing, I did not notice ANY difference with Amsoil 10W40 vs the PO's Rotella. Although I did not use an infrared thermometer on the differential before and after changing, I would bet that would probably show a difference there though.
So just keep smiling and enjoy the ride:smile2:
 

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I am an Amsoil dealer, but mostly diesel automotive. I am new to Motorcycles. My father had a 1985 Goldwing, and always used Honda Oil. The engine blew in 2000, and he had to replace the engine. at 120,000 miles. After the break in period, he again ran Honda Oil. We tested the heat coming off the engine, at 240 degrees. He then switched to Amsoil, and after the first oil change, we tested the heat again. 190 degrees. So, in out little test, the Amsoil did decrease the temp of the engine. Nothing else was changed. I run Amsoil in all my bikes, and change that 9000 to 10000 miles, or once a year. So, that is why I used Amsoil. no that I am a Dealer, does what it is supposed to do. If it had not, then I would have no problem using another oil.
 

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It was explained in very clear language further back.
and in a PM...
I was being sarcastic. I could not see how you could have been more clear. :smile2:
 

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I have absolutely no problems with documentary evidence.....
and yes, I am aware that the oil temps can get higher than the coolant temperatures...

experienced that on a 1965 Plymouth 4 speed tranny pulling a much too big trailer up in the Colorado Mountains one year. The next year, that motor had an oil cooler on it with a fan to help hold things under control.... I should have had a good pickup truck, but I only had one vehicle, a 383 CI, 330 hp 4 barrel hot rod that "can do anything I want it too" :rofl:

If the PO has made it more clear in a documentary way, that the "Oil
temperatures will be cooler" with a synthetic, I would not have reacted as hard as I did.

But, I have been thru the Amsoil schools and I don't like their methods.
 

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#2 I did my own big test on Amsoil in a Mitsubishi Montero I had years back. For 3000mi, I used Valvoline Dura-blend 5W30. Used the same pump at the same gas station for almost all fill-ups. No other changes were made during this time period of 6000mi. The first 3000mi section had 2 tanks that were pure highway. Otherwise, just back and forth to work...daily driving. I averaged 19.2mpg over that 3000mi.
Changed the engine, trans and rear diff over to Amsoil products. Covered another 3000mi, and tallied an average of 20.5mpg This 3Kmi stretch did not have all highway tanks involved. Just daily driving. Now, I don't believe the engine oil by itself will make much, if any, noticeable improvement in mileage. But when that vehicle was traded in, the dealer appraiser thought it stalled while stopped because of how smooth it felt. So he proceeded to make that lovely starter grind noise.
If you had done that test over a year with each oil it might be credible evidence but over a 3000 mile time period there were probably climate variables which can effect fuel economy as much or more than what you documented.
Really I have nothing against synthetic oil, I just can't in any way justify the cost of it based on my own experience and having worked in the automotive business for 35 years.
 

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Wow! This thread got ugly. But it's kinda par for the course on any automotive forum as well.


Only 2 reasons I am posting this is to say on a water cooled engine, yes the thermostat controls the temperature. But it is the COOLANT temperature that it regulates. Since coolant does not circulate into the crankcase, it is the oils job to cool the rotating assembly (crank and pistons). Thus the reason for oil coolers in some applications.


#2 I did my own big test on Amsoil in a Mitsubishi Montero I had years back. For 3000mi, I used Valvoline Dura-blend 5W30. Used the same pump at the same gas station for almost all fill-ups. No other changes were made during this time period of 6000mi. The first 3000mi section had 2 tanks that were pure highway. Otherwise, just back and forth to work...daily driving. I averaged 19.2mpg over that 3000mi.
Changed the engine, trans and rear diff over to Amsoil products. Covered another 3000mi, and tallied an average of 20.5mpg This 3Kmi stretch did not have all highway tanks involved. Just daily driving. Now, I don't believe the engine oil by itself will make much, if any, noticeable improvement in mileage. But when that vehicle was traded in, the dealer appraiser thought it stalled while stopped because of how smooth it felt. So he proceeded to make that lovely starter grind noise.
That Montero and a Nissan I had were my guinea pigs to see for myself if that stuff made a difference. And in my experience, it has.
I will absolutely not condemn the idea of use whatever and change it regularly. Because it works just fine. I run an auto repair shop, and know that is the case. We all have our personal preferences, and sometimes the emotions of those preferences interferes with what our fingers end up trying to translate onto the keyboard. As well as, how what is written is perceived by the end reader.


For the Wing, I did not notice ANY difference with Amsoil 10W40 vs the PO's Rotella. Although I did not use an infrared thermometer on the differential before and after changing, I would bet that would probably show a difference there though.
So just keep smiling and enjoy the ride:smile2:
While true the exhaust and crankcase/oil pan are major contributors to engine cooling it is the thermostat that regulates engine temp. I would think common sense says the synthetic is not absorbing heat as well as the conventional oils if the oil pan temp is less. There cant be that much more friction with lets say Rotella T compared to synthetic. Our engines would wear out in no time. We all know how long the Wings engine lasts when serviced.
 

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Wow! This thread got ugly. But it's kinda par for the course on any automotive forum as well.


Only 2 reasons I am posting this is to say on a water cooled engine, yes the thermostat controls the temperature. But it is the COOLANT temperature that it regulates. Since coolant does not circulate into the crankcase, it is the oils job to cool the rotating assembly (crank and pistons). Thus the reason for oil coolers in some applications.


#2 I did my own big test on Amsoil in a Mitsubishi Montero I had years back. For 3000mi, I used Valvoline Dura-blend 5W30. Used the same pump at the same gas station for almost all fill-ups. No other changes were made during this time period of 6000mi. The first 3000mi section had 2 tanks that were pure highway. Otherwise, just back and forth to work...daily driving. I averaged 19.2mpg over that 3000mi.
Changed the engine, trans and rear diff over to Amsoil products. Covered another 3000mi, and tallied an average of 20.5mpg This 3Kmi stretch did not have all highway tanks involved. Just daily driving. Now, I don't believe the engine oil by itself will make much, if any, noticeable improvement in mileage. But when that vehicle was traded in, the dealer appraiser thought it stalled while stopped because of how smooth it felt. So he proceeded to make that lovely starter grind noise.
That Montero and a Nissan I had were my guinea pigs to see for myself if that stuff made a difference. And in my experience, it has.
I will absolutely not condemn the idea of use whatever and change it regularly. Because it works just fine. I run an auto repair shop, and know that is the case. We all have our personal preferences, and sometimes the emotions of those preferences interferes with what our fingers end up trying to translate onto the keyboard. As well as, how what is written is perceived by the end reader.


For the Wing, I did not notice ANY difference with Amsoil 10W40 vs the PO's Rotella. Although I did not use an infrared thermometer on the differential before and after changing, I would bet that would probably show a difference there though.
So just keep smiling and enjoy the ride:smile2:
I ran the same test on my car and Goldwing. I have a 2015 Ford Mustang, and use Amsoil 5w50. It runs great, much better than the Ford Synthetic that they used. I do get better gas milage, and more power at high RPM's. The Goldwings get 10w40. Thanks for your post!
 

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If you had done that test over a year with each oil it might be credible evidence but over a 3000 mile time period there were probably climate variables which can effect fuel economy as much or more than what you documented.
Really I have nothing against synthetic oil, I just can't in any way justify the cost of it based on my own experience and having worked in the automotive business for 35 years.
I thought about climate differentials as well during this test. Over 6000mi, I would easily overlap into either temperature change on the ends of that 6000, thereby somewhat ruling it out. Also, once the fluids were changed, I could see the difference right off the bat when checking mileage. I just dragged it out for the same mileage range for the purpose of keeping it as legitimately comparable as possible. I was NOT getting above 20mpg at all before the changeover. And barely dropped below 20 on only a couple fill-ups afterwards. AT that time gas was around $1.50ish. With the cost of the fluids, it would take approximately 15000mi to recoup the cost in fuel savings. With todays prices, it would obviously occur much sooner.


On a different note but sort of the same taboo topic, gasoline. Specifically, ethanol vs pure gas. I have kept track of every gas purchase since I bought the wing. A convenience store recently built in my town started selling pure gasoline. Naturally, I tried it. In one car, a 94 with fuel injection, my mileage went up by about 2-3mpg. The cost difference is usually the price difference between 87 and 89 octanes. It makes sense to continue its use from the financial aspect, as well as the car was simply made before ethanol use became mainstream. So I'm sure some components would benefit from its use.
The Wing however, did not make a difference. I feel carburetors are sloppy compared to a good fuel injection system. Carbs are simply not capable of self adjusting to maintain a good burning a/f ratio. So, I will just use whatever fuel is at 87 oct regardless of alcohol content (up to 10%.... naturally) until winter gets close. At which time I will fill up with the pure stuff to avoid any of those water or separation issues that plague storage situations.
1800 owners may be able to measure a difference due to FI.
 

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With the cost of the fluids, it would take approximately 15000mi to recoup the cost in fuel savings. With todays prices, it would obviously occur much sooner.

Was that per oil change?

On a different note but sort of the same taboo topic, gasoline. Specifically, ethanol vs pure gas.
1800 owners may be able to measure a difference due to FI.
Not really.
 

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I don't know the exact numbers, but I get it. ALL we get is clear premium, nothing else is clear around here. I ran it in the 'Wing and the mileage gained did not offset the additional cost. In fact mileage was almost the same, so no good reason to burn it. I drive enough rust/separation have not been in issue in anything I own.

I also tried it in my FS Bronco. With clear premium my mileage increased a couple (mind you, at the time I was getting 12, and it went to 14), but not enough to pay for what the 'good' gas was costing.

In the Goldwing I ran to Florence again the other day (About 160 miles). 2-lane highway over the hills (Eugene at about 400' elev, the pass about 800' elev, to the coast, 0' elev, and back). With cheap regular? 47 mpg. And that is with DELO in the crankcase which at 15/40 is thicker anyway. I digress.

Our motors are understressed. If you want synthetic, use it and be happy, but our motors are tuned no where near the ragged edge or performance envelope. But in my bike, regular oil changed at sane intervals has been proven by hundreds of thousands to give many hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles.

I have synthetic in my new car, that's it.
 

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I have absolutely no problems with documentary evidence.....
and yes, I am aware that the oil temps can get higher than the coolant temperatures...

experienced that on a 1965 Plymouth 4 speed tranny pulling a much too big trailer up in the Colorado Mountains one year. The next year, that motor had an oil cooler on it with a fan to help hold things under control.... I should have had a good pickup truck, but I only had one vehicle, a 383 CI, 330 hp 4 barrel hot rod that "can do anything I want it too" :rofl:

If the PO has made it more clear in a documentary way, that the "Oil
temperatures will be cooler" with a synthetic, I would not have reacted as hard as I did.

But, I have been thru the Amsoil schools and I don't like their methods.
Oil temps on my 2008 HD Softail, got up to 270 Degrees at one point and I put an oil cooler on the bike which lowered it to 250. So oil temps can get a lot higher than the water temp. The HD was an air cooled bike. I did run synthetic in the bike because of the high oil temps.
 

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270-275 *F is right at the point where oil starts to get crispy...

I know a fella who over heated his engine and the oil temp guage hit 300*F.
I told him when he got home, do NOT let that engine cool off, drain the oil immediately and put in fresh oil...

Well, we were up in Colorado and he did not heed the warning.
" it will be just fine"..... said he and the night time temps dropped to 35* or abouts.

so, I left him and went back to my campsite.
Next day, the starter on his truck went "click" and that was all she wrote.

Crankcase jelled solid.
 

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I might be taking the bait on this Amsoil hook, not really. Thinking about the Polaris that I mentioned earlier that they recommend Polaris oil for, and absolutely no others, and after an intense search and discussion with others turns out to be a synthetic 0W50 or 5W50. I thought at first that this viscosity was used for all temperature usage. But now I am thinking that the reason for it may be because this machine is marketed to children that may not understand that this is an air cooled engine that should not be left for long periods of time at idle or running without moving. Just trying to understand the synthetic thing.


Scott
 

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Oil temps on my 2008 HD Softail, got up to 270 Degrees at one point and I put an oil cooler on the bike which lowered it to 250. So oil temps can get a lot higher than the water temp. The HD was an air cooled bike. I did run synthetic in the bike because of the high oil temps.
Use Amsoil it is designed to lower temps!
 
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