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Just to put my 2 cents of MY experience. A friend of mine is an Amsoil dealer and sold me 4qts of motorcycle synthetic 10w40 for my clunky shifting and getting worse the more I drove it 88 Wing. It shifted no better than almost any other oil I tried. Supertech 20w50 actually shifted better. I tried the Delo after trying numerous "motorcycle" oils. I paid more for ONE quart of Amsoil than I did for a gallon of Delo 15w40. Immediately started shifting smoother with the Delo and I will not change to anything else now. Expensive doesn't mean it's better. Whether my Wing is different than others I don't know but it works for me and that is what counts.

Just my experience.
 

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Hey, I have a question. If my car uses 0/20 what is the next lightest oil? -5/15? :wink2:
 

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All I can say is if standard oil can not handle the engine temps produced in a Goldwing motor under semi normal conditions, why do SO many riders have SO many hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles, and momma Honda says it is just fine?

BUT, if you want to run it that is just dandy. Call it peace of mind or whatever. I have on occasion but for the value, can't say I will.

Your results, and opinion, may vary.
 

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Synthetic itself is not harmful ..... but unless you stretch oil changes or use it under adverse conditions .... little need. What will hurt the clutch plates is "Moly" that is found in some oils. Honda sells, or "did sell" their own synthetic and synthetic blend .... either "without moly" and "with moly". Said so right on the bottle. "without moly" was the one for MCs with wet clutches.


I'm using Delo LE400 15w40 now as I found they really shift nice with it.
 

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Steer clear of the Energy Conserving mark. The molybdenum disulfide in them bonds to everything (including clutch plates) and is very slippery. NOT something you want the clutch to do. Also, never put a slic-50 type product in your engine. You WILL end up replacing the clutch plates. Once that stuff gets on them, it doesn't come off.
 

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In the years of car and bike ownership, I haven't seen the difference. I'm not an oil change fanatic and generally run my cars out to 7-10k and buy what is on sale. Just match viscosity. My Concours which I just sold had 110k and ran like a champ. One change / year. We traded our 16yo Lexus SUV with 265k and zero engine problems. Even ran that on lowest octane its whole life though it calls for Premium only. I keep most vehicles until well into the 200k range and never spun a bearing or lost a cylinder so I am convinced that any regular oil works fine.


2006 Mercedes E55 AMG
1996 Goldwing 1500A/2

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