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rOmiLaYu wrote:
OK, I'm a little worried...when i pulled the starter, the bike GUSHED oil...should that have happened? I mean a good quart and half or so all over me and the garage floor.
No that shouldn't have happened! I didn't lose a drop either time I pulled my starter. I wonder if the bike was overfilled with oil :stumped:. Did you by any chance check the oil level? Unless thats one of the differences between mine and yours :baffled:!

How did the brushes look in the starter? They should be (according tothe manual for my 83 1100)no less than 5.5 mm long. Did you ohm out the armature and commutator segments? They should have continuity between segments but not from the commutator to the armature segments. Ohm from the cable terminal to the case. It should be open. Ohm from the cable terminal to the brush wire. It should read as a short.

Bob :11grey:
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
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Can anyone confirm for me if it's normal for '76 to bleed out when you take out the starter? Is that a signal of something bad? I'm worried.:shock:
 

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Was there any sign of water in the oil? Pull the drain plug on the engine and drain out whats left in the engine to check for signs of water. If there's a bad head gasket or the water pump had really crapped out the coolant can get into the engine and sure as hell will raise the oil level. I hope this isn't the case because an engine that's sat around for any time at all with a case full of water is going to require a complete tear down. I don't want to be the messenger of doom, but check this out right away before going to any more expense or work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
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No. I didn't see any water in the oil. It was a rich, black, viscous oil....looked like all used oil.
 

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That's very good news if there's no sign of water in the lube oil. A leak in the cooling system into the crankcase is one of the most common reasons to have an unusual amount of oil in the system. One other cause is a leaking carb float coupled with a fuel petcock that leaks. In that case though the oil will be very thin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
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Well, I'm not entirely sure that there is/was excess oil in the system...it holds a little over 3 quarts and I'd say that no more than a quart or so came out. I just didn't know that anything was going to so it shocked me when I broke the seal and all that oil gushed out. I wasn't expecting it, but I guess it's normal? Someone said when they changed their starter that no oil came out but his was an 83. Should ANY oil have come out? There's a gear in there so i'm assuming it needs to be lubed...it makes sense that there is oil in there.
 

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Well, I'm not entirely sure that there is/was excess oil in the system...it holds a little over 3 quarts and I'd say that no more than a quart or so came out. I just didn't know that anything was going to so it shocked me when I broke the seal and all that oil gushed out. I wasn't expecting it, but I guess it's normal? Someone said when they changed their starter that no oil came out but his was an 83. Should ANY oil have come out? There's a gear in there so i'm assuming it needs to be lubed...it makes sense that there is oil in there.
I think it is certainly possible that oil would have been in that area or the engine, it would be necessary to lube the clutch among other things. I am surprised that there was a quart of oil that high in the case unless it was over filled. Exavid listed the causes of an overfilled crankcase. I would recommend draining the oil through the drain plug to see how much is there and if it smells of gasoline.
 

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rOmiLaYu wrote:
OK, I'm a little worried...when i pulled the starter, the bike GUSHED oil...should that have happened? I mean a good quart and half or so all over me and the garage floor.

Also have trouble getting the starter itself out...it seems stuck on the shifter mount and exhaust stud. Any tips to get it out aside from "coaxing" it? :weightlifter:
If the bike was on the side stand (very good idea when pulling the starter) it is normal to lose oil. I've done a few starters on all the 4 cylinder Wings and they all lost oil (about a mug full). Dropping the exhaust a couple of inches makes it easier to pull the starter out.
 

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hello rOmiLaYu; Ifyour looking for a used wiring harness I've got 2 {parts} bikes 1976 & 1977 under tarps. I assume harnesses are o.k. if you wish I'll check them outand let you know. I'm not out to make a bunch of money off them, just trying to help out. I was in an auto junk yard the other day and saw a 1975 gl1000 frame with carbs hanging off throttle cable, engine in a box beside itsidecovers, radiater and other small stuff there. no wheels no seat. didn,t look at harness close but could if you like,this bike is sitting outside uncovered ! doesn't look to have been there long.I'm in western Pa. it is too. Let me know if this interests you at all. Finner
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
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finner wrote:
hello rOmiLaYu; Ifyour looking for a used wiring harness I've got 2 {parts} bikes 1976 & 1977 under tarps. I assume harnesses are o.k. if you wish I'll check them out and let you know. I'm not out to make a bunch of money off them, just trying to help out. I was in an auto junk yard the other day and saw a 1975 gl1000 frame with carbs hanging off throttle cable, engine in a box beside it sidecovers, radiater and other small stuff there. no wheels no seat. didn,t look at harness close but could if you like,this bike is sitting outside uncovered ! doesn't look to have been there long.I'm in western Pa. it is too.   Let me know if this interests you at all. Finner


Finner,

Thanks for the offer, man! I don't think I'm going to need it....remarkably when I pulled that fairing harness out, it turns out that all the cut wires were from it. So it would seem I don't have much trouble in the way of wiring anymore. :jumper:

And I got one of the kick starts off of eBay and a new starter...soooo...now I just need to wait until everything gets here. I got the neutral light working, checked the plugs and they looked Gr-eat. No fouling, just smelled off gas! So I'm encouraged by that. I think it might start once I put it all back together! I'll let everybody know.:grinner:
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
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OK, here's what happened....I finally got the starter today...put it in and, well...not much happened.

I bench tested it and it worked fine, so I put it in. Hit the button and it went, even seemed to fire a few times, like it wanted to turn over...then, nothing...just the starter turning and nothing else...just didn't seem to be firing. Then the solenoid died:X When it rains, it pours, huh?

So here's where I am now...I have a viable starter, all the plugs are good (not sure about the wires, how can I test those?) and it still doesn't start.

would not having the exhaust on make a difference? I've got the pipes off as they are drying from a rust removal treatment...will it start without the exhaust headers on?

What should I check now?
 

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Your symptons could be a multitude of things. Start with the battery. Clean and clean and keep all grease away from the terminals, if there is a slight amount of grease use disc brake cleaner and remove it. Before charging the battery measure the volts as it sits there looking guilty. Anything lower than 11.4 VDC is dead. If it is higher 11.5 - 12.5 it may or may not be OK. Now check all the cells for fluid above the plates (lead slots). Add distilled water or filtered RO water only. Now hooh up the charger and slowly re charge. When the charger says it is fully charger, disconnect and reconnect, this will increase the float voltage. If your charger has a boost as in a booster to help start a motor put the chrger in this boost mode. This will equalize the battery and caution the battery will gas a lot snow no sparks. Hydogen is explosive. Boost charge for nmo more than 2 minutes all the while shake the battery to help release sulfates that may go back into solution in the electrolyte. Now recharge on the lowest setting and let the battery go to high float voltage, when done remove the chrger and let the battery sit for abouy 5 minutes. Now measure the terminal voltage, you want 12.5-13 VDC. If you have this voltage good, if anything less you may have a dead cell. If you have a hydrometer you can use it to check sg (specific gravity) be cautious here as the readings will vary with the temperature. Once this is all done and you are fully sure that the battery is OK continue.

Remove all the cables and clean them, no grease, no vaseline, no nothing. All copper should be clean. If the ring connectors are brokem re solder to a ring or replace, take sand paper 220 grit and clean until the copper is shiny. No dull copper allowed. Clean the point contacts on the solenoid, the big posts, again no grease, use brake cleaner to remove all traces of grease.

Clean both sides of the solenoid, clean the smaller wires and connectors in the same manner. Now clean the connection for the starter. Remove all wires and clean. Get the point.

Now with the battery out the starter disconnected, test the solenoid with battery voltage to bring in the main contacts for the starter and verify with an ohm meter set at ohms x 1, The reading should be as close to zero or whatever zero is on your meter when you short out the leads of the meter. If good and you get a good solid clunk as the solenoid engages check the starter. It is a DC series wound motor. The more you overload thes puppies the more they like it until too much heat. That is why you nshould never engage it under full load for longer than 3-5 seconds. If the starter and charging system and the engine is in good tune a warmed up GL should start in about .5 seconds, hit the switch and off it goes.

Back to the motor, use the ohms meter set at Kohms and put one meter lead on the motor post where the cable was and one meter lead on the ground or - or frame of the bike. You should read infinity , OL, or open. Anything else means the motor is grounded.



If all checks out, put all the wires and connectors back in place, DO NOT GREASE OR OTHERWISE COAT THE TERMINALS. Better yet to look after these connections. On a cold engine choke it and try to start. If all electrics seemed OK and the start sytem clicks again, you will need to do an amp check on start up. Without an amp meter use you voltmeter multi meter in volts set to about 20 DCV. On start up the voltage should drop to about 9 VDC. if the clicking re,mains and the starter voltage drops to above 9 volts, the starter is not capable. You may need brushes. That starter needs about 30-40 amps at normal loads and then multiply that by as much as 5 under excessive loads.

Post your values and I may be able to help more.
 

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Your symptons could be a multitude of things. Start with the battery. Clean and clean and keep all grease away from the terminals, if there is a slight amount of grease use disc brake cleaner and remove it. Before charging the battery measure the volts as it sits there looking guilty. Anything lower than 11.4 VDC is dead. If it is higher 11.5 - 12.5 it may or may not be OK. Now check all the cells for fluid above the plates (lead slots). Add distilled water or filtered RO water only. Now hooh up the charger and slowly re charge. When the charger says it is fully charger, disconnect and reconnect, this will increase the float voltage. If your charger has a boost as in a booster to help start a motor put the chrger in this boost mode. This will equalize the battery and caution the battery will gas a lot snow no sparks. Hydogen is explosive. Boost charge for nmo more than 2 minutes all the while shake the battery to help release sulfates that may go back into solution in the electrolyte. Now recharge on the lowest setting and let the battery go to high float voltage, when done remove the chrger and let the battery sit for abouy 5 minutes. Now measure the terminal voltage, you want 12.5-13 VDC. If you have this voltage good, if anything less you may have a dead cell. If you have a hydrometer you can use it to check sg (specific gravity) be cautious here as the readings will vary with the temperature. Once this is all done and you are fully sure that the battery is OK continue.

Remove all the cables and clean them, no grease, no vaseline, no nothing. All copper should be clean. If the ring connectors are brokem re solder to a ring or replace, take sand paper 220 grit and clean until the copper is shiny. No dull copper allowed. Clean the point contacts on the solenoid, the big posts, again no grease, use brake cleaner to remove all traces of grease.

Clean both sides of the solenoid, clean the smaller wires and connectors in the same manner. Now clean the connection for the starter. Remove all wires and clean. Get the point.

Now with the battery out the starter disconnected, test the solenoid with battery voltage to bring in the main contacts for the starter and verify with an ohm meter set at ohms x 1, The reading should be as close to zero or whatever zero is on your meter when you short out the leads of the meter. If good and you get a good solid clunk as the solenoid engages check the starter. It is a DC series wound motor. The more you overload thes puppies the more they like it until too much heat. That is why you nshould never engage it under full load for longer than 3-5 seconds. If the starter and charging system and the engine is in good tune a warmed up GL should start in about .5 seconds, hit the switch and off it goes.

Back to the motor, use the ohms meter set at Kohms and put one meter lead on the motor post where the cable was and one meter lead on the ground or - or frame of the bike. You should read infinity , OL, or open. Anything else means the motor is grounded.



If all checks out, put all the wires and connectors back in place, DO NOT GREASE OR OTHERWISE COAT THE TERMINALS. Better yet to look after these connections. On a cold engine choke it and try to start. If all electrics seemed OK and the start sytem clicks again, you will need to do an amp check on start up. Without an amp meter use you voltmeter multi meter in volts set to about 20 DCV. On start up the voltage should drop to about 9 VDC. if the clicking re,mains and the starter voltage drops to above 9 volts, the starter is not capable. You may need brushes. That starter needs about 30-40 amps at normal loads and then multiply that by as much as 5 under excessive loads.

Post your values and I may be able to help more.
 

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I'd never start any engine without some exhaust pipe for fear of cold air on hot valves {fatal} this may be a hill-billy suggestion but you could tie a strap to your triple tree and have someone pull you for a short distance if that bike is able it will start. Be very careful as this is a dangerous thing! pull at a slow steady speed, slowing down slowly so bike can stop without ramming car or running over strap! Like i said DANGEROUS . finner
 

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also adjust the Valves, I replaced a relay, starter n battery, and had valves off a few MM's, so get the instructions on how to set em go slow, then recheck each one, twice, button up, check fluid's it should start, mine runs better than when i bought it!
 

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NINE YEARS!!! YIKES!!!!



I was wondering what to do with mine, just did get the tappet valve s set, rode it twice both times the dang starter clutch whired then clunked into position, now it just whirs n clunks, tried Raddacks deal placeing start selector on off and punching it a few seconds to posibbley free er up, no dice, wondering does oil level have any thing to do with since I lost over a quart with valve covers off!? my guess is prob not too much, wish there was an RC'er on this site that was in Saint Paul who would do this in trade for lage 30 size scale Heli cause I can't afford over priced Honda shop in Saint Paul, and my tools are very minimal! it sucks because I spent what little extra cash on this bike my second Wing after almost Fifteen years, never thought they were made so unaccessible for engine work, Now I guess She'll just be a garage queen for NINE Years, hope not!



Bigrick



p.s: has anyone ever put a kick starter on an 1100? would it work? and if so what would it involve pls! this Vet coulduse some help too ld to wait nine month's anyone know a shop near Saint Paul that's Goldwing friendly! I want to save this Bird!
 

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Honda should have made an access panel for the starter clutch!!
Kind of a drag Man, when ya can't even push start the bike cause full dress it's way to heavy, been thinking bout selling all the bags n chrome to lighten er up!
 

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In the old days, when dinosaurs roamed the earth, I had a '78 Automatic with a detachable kickstarter. In those days in order to get or renew your motorcycle operators licence you had to show how quickly you could restart the bike from a stall as if at a green traffic light when you're blocking the traffic behind you. And you weren't supposed to use the kill button to stall the bike. It took over a week to get special permission to forgo this part of the test.
 
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