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I realize this subject has been covered a lot, but the main question I have hasn't been hit on. I know my battery is good, but when I try to start the engine it seems the power isn't hitting the starter (although occasionally it does). After a few failing attempts to start all I hear is the clicking of the solenoid. Is this what a dying (dead) solenoid sound like?

I haven't tried jumping the posts yet, but I have tried to jump itfrom a vehicle with no effect. Before I spend the money I want to be sureI'mbuying what I need.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Quite often the clicking solinoid is the result of low voltage, (not enough to hold the solinoid), common causes are bad connections,(loose-corroded-burnt), or low battery condition. :gunhead:
 

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:waving::waving: Welcome to the World's Greatest Goldwing Site Richardrwg! :waving::waving:

Start out by measuring the voltage from the starter terminal lug to ground. You'll need to see at least 10V there when you hit the starter. If you see less than that the problem can be a battery that has high internal resistance, bad starter cabling connections or a starter relay that has burned contacts. If you have less than 10V at the starter check the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine. If the voltage is low and your battery is charged it usually means the battery is defective. Either get it load tested or replace it. If you have 10V on the starter when trying to crank the engine the problem is most likely in the starter. Remove the starter and either take it to an automotive electrical shop or disassemble it yourself. Often merely cleaning up the carbon dust and brushes can bring a starte back to life. Cleaning up the commutator segments can help too. A worn out bearing or bushing will also cause poor starter operation.
 

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I'm having the same issue. Press the button, nothing happens for about half a second then it reluctantly turns over and starts. This is with 13v at the battery on a full charge.

I'll probably end up getting a starter rebuild kit for $50 soon.
 

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I had the same problem on mine Found out two differant issues. 1.Check all connections on solenoid. 2. Check cluch safety switch
 

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sle104 wrote:
I had the same problem on mine Found out two differant issues. 1.Check all connections on solenoid. 2. Check cluch safety switch
What he said...
 

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sle104 wrote:
I had the same problem on mine Found out two differant issues. 1.Check all connections on solenoid. 2. Check cluch safety switch
Where's the clutch saftey switch???Also not sure where the solenoid is?? Winter setting in fast here in Pa. In the 30's tonite!! Gotta get these projects out of the way before heading south. LOL
 

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In the clutch lever mount..you'll see two wires going into the switch no the clutch they won't let the starter operate if the clutch is not in neutral..sometimes they send false info to the starter.
 

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I know the connections are clean, where is the clutch safety switch on the 83 goldwing?
 

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:waving:Do as exavid suggested by checking for voltage at the starter which most likely will be OK if your battery is fully charged. I had the same problem on my '83 Interstate early this year and when I hit the start button all I got was the clicking of the solenoid. My starter crapped out with only 20,800 original miles on the bike. My starter wasn't rebuildable so I bought a rebuilt OEM Mitsuba starter from Stocker's Starters in EL Cajon, CA. Cost was $119.95 with free shipping. This is the route to go if your starter is shot. Below is a link to Stocker's website.



http://www.stockers.com/PShondastreet.htm
 

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remove side cover, turn key on, jump solenoid posts. If bad, will crank.
 

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Had the same problem. Was the starter relay.
Could short it out, and start it.
Replaced the relay, and no problems since.
(actually, asked the dealer what the problem might be, the mech told me what to check, bought the new relay for $32, and installed myslef. The mech saved me at least $150.)
 

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Having the same problem with my 83 GL1100I. Tried jumping the solonide wires. NOTHING AT ALL. Battery seems to be fully charged. Solonide only clicks but starter does not engage. Anymore thoughts?:baffled:
 

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2ac911 wrote:
Having the same problem with my 83 GL1100I. Tried jumping the solonide wires. NOTHING AT ALL. Battery seems to be fully charged. Solonide only clicks but starter does not engage. Anymore thoughts?:baffled:
Do you actually mean the starter? If you power the solenoid with jumper wires, you're really not isolating the system. If you bypassed the solenoid and the starter is clicking, then it is, more than likely, a weak battery. Possibly a battery going out.
 

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2ac911 wrote:
Having the same problem with my 83 GL1100I. Tried jumping the solonide wires. NOTHING AT ALL. Battery seems to be fully charged. Solonide only clicks but starter does not engage. Anymore thoughts?:baffled:
:waving:Go right to the starter using a meter and check the voltage while actuating the start button. If you have good voltage there then your starter is defective. If you don't have voltage at the starter then go to the solenoid.
 

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Check the voltage to the starter with a Multi Meter. Reading only about 6 volts. Think I had a good connection and ground. Tried it 3 seperate times. Readings about the same.Have the battery hooked to a maintainer and the green light is on saying it's charged. Think the battery may be weak? Opioions welcome.
 

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2ac911 wrote:
Check the voltage to the starter with a Multi Meter. Reading only about 6 volts. Think I had a good connection and ground. Tried it 3 seperate times. Readings about the same.Have the battery hooked to a maintainer and the green light is on saying it's charged. Think the battery may be weak? Opioions welcome.
:waving:Reading only 6 volts at the starter is low, should be close to 10 volts.
 

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if your gooood in the kitchen..... you can pry it open and clean it out...unless the coil is burnt....only after rapping on it.....then fige it all back together....ive done that with success
 

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it's all over, the starter will start no more, unfortunately this close to Christmas there's no money for a new one. The real kicker is that the bloody thing died 2 days after I put the plates on it.
 

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you check the bearings...if the amiture is bridged or the coil is burnt then its toast otherwise theres still hope...you make sure the connector didnt spin inside...have you pulled apart yet?
 
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