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Ok, I will more than likely buy a Harbor Freight mini trailer. I have already read a lot on this forum for the DIY trailer, so please do not quote or referencelinks. Lots of very good information.

First off, HF are a little wide and tongue bar not long enough, agreed? They say the trailer should not be wider than the bike, but I am thinking the shortest width I want to cut is ~36 inches for a "box" so the tires would hang that much further.

I do want to put on a cargo carrier, and I prefer the Sears or Thule Atlantis type. For some reason, I want to be able to lay down and sleep/rest in one. Modify it or whatever.

I have not really seen or paid any attention to these cargo carriers until now, but there is a Thule Atlantis 2100 that is 92 inches long (8 ft) x 36 inches. Seems way too long for a MC trailer, and I was thinking of a 6 ft that would actually be on the verge of being too long. What do you all think of the length and name brand? What will I regret? And, I may not even use it after built.

I can get the HF mini on sale for $169 w/ 8" tires locally . Or, $229 with the 12" tires. I believe bothare the same trailer, but the weights are 130 vs 152 lbs. 12" tire/rim are $40 each.
 

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I am in the middle of a HF trailer build. I cut the cross members yesterday and gave it a coat of paint today. I like the look of this one with the diamond plate, but I.m going with the measurements of this one. I'm not crazy about any of their lights, so I'll have to go look and see what I can find that works for me. Extending the tongue is still another question.
 

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I've seen on the net that some people extend their tounge, but I didn't and I haven't had any problems.

I would like to make it narrower, but I haven't yet, and I haven't had any trouble with that either. You just have to be good about remembering it's there and don't screw up....


The deck of the trailer is only 4 feet long, so you want to look at where the bolting points are on the car top carrier and make sure that where you position it with front and rear overhang that you can bolt it down to the deck. I would guess that with an 8 foot box, that you want about 1 1/2 overhang on the rear, and about 2 1/2 feet on the front. Is the box sturdy enough to support weight at the front hanging out that far, or will you build some support?

I never thought about sleeping inside it, will you close it down on yourself? How will you make sure that some prankster won't lock you inside? The latch mechanisms are on the outside...
 

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I've posted extensively on HF trailer kits and about building my own including the recommendations of which light converter/isolator to use in order to ease the load on the electrical systems stock wiring. Here's the pics of some of the work did on mine. I need to do an updated shot of it with the cooler rack installed on the extended tongue. It tows like a dream and doesn't duck walk at all.

http://s289.photobucket.com/albums/ll201/Bagmaster50/Trailer/
 

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You mean something along the lines of this ? ....
.......
 

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Dusty, that is AWESOME. Is there a mini-fridge in there too?
 

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I made a trailer with the HF 12 inch wheels, narrowed it by 4 inches, extended the tongue by 22 inches [2x2 steel & rear bolt holes will match front, ABS rear bumper w/ reflector tape, Sears 67.5 inch 20 cu ft cargo carrier mounted in 1/2 inch treated plywood, cooler rack on front, extra 3 light bar on rear + independent turn signals. I changed the trailerfrom a 4 prong to a5 prong connector to match the bike [looks like square 6 prong, but only use 5...capped the unused 6th red wire] $10.

I used the tail/marker lites with the tail/brake combo that came with HF trailer & just added yellow turn signals [bought separate].

I cut the axle down 4 inches [near the wheel to avoid a weak point].

Took it 600 miles & had to keep looking back to make sure it was there.
 

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On a related subject with trailers, I'm curious about something.

Safety chains.

I've heard both schools of thinking when it comes to safety chains.

1.) Solid, heavy-duty chain that will keep the trailer from sailing off into the ditch/oncoming traffic should it come unhitched somehow.

2.) Lighter chains that will get past a LEO's visual inspection, yet will break fairly easy so as not to cause the trailer to become a flopping anchor tied to the back of your bike, which will cause all kinds of handling problems, most likely at higher speeds, and possible eventual injury to bike and rider.

Which option would each of you recommend and why?

Mike
 

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MDKramer wrote:
On a related subject with trailers, I'm curious about something.

Safety chains.

I've heard both schools of thinking when it comes to safety chains.

1.) Solid, heavy-duty chain that will keep the trailer from sailing off into the ditch/oncoming traffic should it come unhitched somehow.

2.) Lighter chains that will get past a LEO's visual inspection, yet will break fairly easy so as not to cause the trailer to become a flopping anchor tied to the back of your bike, which will cause all kinds of handling problems, most likely at higher speeds, and possible eventual injury to bike and rider.

Which option would each of you recommend and why?

Mike

This has been brought up before, and last time I expressed a very strong opinion. I still have that same opinion, but I'll try to be a little more polite as I express it this time.

There was an accident here a few years back where a trailer came loose and it struck a car and killed the occupants. Not likely, but it can happen, and it did happen.

As motorcyclists, we choose to engage in an inherently risky activity. Every time we mount up, we take a chance with our lives. We all do it, because we want to and for us the reward outweighs the risk.

However some of us choose to pull a trailer. This makes our activity even more risky. There are additionalrisks involved. This is completely optional, none of us needs to do this, but some of us enjoy the added benefits. However, this brings with it an additional level of responsibilty.

If you don't want the risk, don't pull the trailer, but you don't get to recklessly abandon your responsibility and put other people at risk. I guess you can, but then I don't want to know you....

The safety regulations are there for a reason, to prevent us (those of us that pull trailers) from putting innocent people at risk.

Use the chains. Use them correctly and reduce your own risk too, but use them. There should be no question.
 

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g-eater wrote:
Dusty, that is AWESOME. Is there a mini-fridge in there too?
Not mine, just saw this on the web and thought it might be something that Foosman(5) was thinking about building, but maybe taken to the next 'level'. Thought it might give him an idea or two. :baffled:

It's called the Slipstream by Timeout trailers and has a claimed 38 cubic feet capacity
 

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I bought the HF utility trailer with the larger 12 inch tires several weeks ago. Paid around $185 using a 15% coupon.

I did not get the Thule since the plastic seemed a little thinner than what I wanted.

I started pricing sheet metal anddiamond plate ($80 - $130 sheet for the thin stuff). I would need 2+ sheets, and then there is the fabrication/painting.

Stupid me is now looking at washers/dryer shells and large storage cabinet. I got rid ofmy washer last year.

Right now, I have more time to think about this over the winter. What a waste of my time thinking, ha.
 

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Foosman(5) wrote:
I bought the HF utility trailer with the larger 12 inch tires several weeks ago. Paid around $185 using a 15% coupon.

I did not get the Thule since the plastic seemed a little thinner than what I wanted.

I started pricing sheet metal anddiamond plate ($80 - $130 sheet for the thin stuff). I would need 2+ sheets, and then there is the fabrication/painting.
Myself, I like the lightweight carrier. Some folks skip the wood/sheet metal & just bolt the carrier to the frame. I wish I'd have done that, since the 1/2 inch treated wood serves no real purpose at all.
 
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