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Discussion Starter #41
Look at an old VW beetle, the pedal assembly bolts in and might be small enough to allow you room for them where your brake pedal is now.
As the foot box is made there is just barely enough room for the brake pedal and throttle pedal. The throttle pedal is only about 1 1/2 " wide, and just clears the hump. Basically , there's no room in there at all. I haven't measured it recently, but based on my memory, I think the total driver foot box is only about 12" wide. As mentioned earlier, hind sight is 20/20.
Thanks for the input, though.
Looks like an 84 clutch assembly will fit in a 1000 motor but is it worth it???

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Look at an old VW beetle, the pedal assembly bolts in and might be small enough to allow you room for them where your brake pedal is now.
Only about 12" of space in the driver foot box.
 

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Discussion Starter #42

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But will the clutch cover bolt up tight? That's what's needed.
Dennis,
I read that conversion post really close, and yes it appears that the bolt pattern is the same, and will bolt up "oil tight"
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I think that I may have solved my "engineering" problem with my electric "clutch". When I was hand testing the tension on the cable, I did not take the fixed sheath location at the clutch lever, into consideration. By adding a cable-sheath bracket, and hooking up the existing cable to the electric clutch gadget, It was able to pull the cable the needed amount to dis-engage the clutch. This has all taken place outside of the trike. Now I have to go through the installation. Once it's installed, I will post some photos of the finished install. With this system, there is no clutch lever at all. There is only a shift-mounted rocker switch, and dash lights to indicate when to shift, and when to "drive". This system holds the clutch in the dis-engaged position, until the rocker switch is activated again. The release is not sudden, but takes place over a few seconds, so there should be no jerking motion.
Thanks to all that have made many very good suggestions. Hopefully my system will work.
 

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I was thinking you could make the arm on the arm by the clutch longer,that would make it easier
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I was thinking you could make the arm on the arm by the clutch longer,that would make it easier
That was actually suggested earlier...and it has potential. The problem, of course , is that the longer the shift lever, the further it is away from the gear lever. With my small hands, I already have a problem reaching for the lever. If there is a "depressed" center on the long lever, it would put it too close to the gear lever. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks
 

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If the electric clutch is slow to engage/disengage for a smooth response, how will that work in an emergency stop/start situation?
 

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If the electric clutch is slow to engage/disengage for a smooth response, how will that work in an emergency stop/start situation?
Charlie,
he will just have to be a Very Careful rider :)
 

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Discussion Starter #50
If the electric clutch is slow to engage/disengage for a smooth response, how will that work in an emergency stop/start situation?
Since there's a rocker switch instead of the clutch lever, it will be just a matter of getting used to the "feel". I will be using my thumb, instead of my entire hand. The electric clutch is only slightly slower than the lever. At my age, it is probably faster. The good news , is that once the clutch is in the dis-engaged position, it will stay there until it is released. Obviously, this will take some getting used to. I live in a very rural area, with relatively low traffic, so, hopefully, I will have some time with this , before I get into any real traffic. The dash lights will let me know where the clutch is positioned.
 

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If it's electric, wouldn't a rheostat work?
I'd think you could put a lever and spring on it and actually make it feel like the original.
 

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How about Clutching with the existing handgrip and cable, but switching on the electric to relieve your hand while you are stopped at a light?
 

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That was actually suggested earlier...and it has potential. The problem, of course , is that the longer the shift lever, the further it is away from the gear lever. With my small hands, I already have a problem reaching for the lever. If there is a "depressed" center on the long lever, it would put it too close to the gear lever. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks
i was referring to the arm that works the clutch on the back of the motor.
 

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That was actually suggested earlier...and it has potential. The problem, of course , is that the longer the shift lever, the further it is away from the gear lever. With my small hands, I already have a problem reaching for the lever. If there is a "depressed" center on the long lever, it would put it too close to the gear lever. I hope that makes sense.
Thanks
I was referring to this one.on the bask of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
i was referring to the arm that works the clutch on the back of the motor.
O.K...I looked into that possibility. I would have to destroy the entire engine case to do that, as there is barely 1/2" of space between the clutch arm and the case, on the inside. Don't want to harm the engine case. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
How about Clutching with the existing handgrip and cable, but switching on the electric to relieve your hand while you are stopped at a light?
That was one of my thoughts, until I realized that there is no practical way to override the manual cable, with the powered cable. It seems possible, until actually trying to lay it out. It would require manufacturing a double cable, where each cable did not interfere with the other , while in operation. I'm just not that good .
 

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Discussion Starter #57
If it's electric, wouldn't a rheostat work?
I'd think you could put a lever and spring on it and actually make it feel like the original.
Well, that's the whole point...I don't want it to feel like the original, since that is what my problem is, in the first place. I did give some thought to leaving the hand lever, and modifying it to push the button. That would only work on dis-engage, but then I would still have to push the other side of the button to engage. Kind of awkward.
 

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Sounds like you have it sorted, but here is an option I didn't see mentioned. You said you only have room for two pedals, so how about making them clutch and brake and move the throttle to hand. You could have a twist grip on your shifter.
BTW I don't have the pressure for a GoldWing, but my old CB750 had around 250 lbs. of clutch springs, stock. Because after I built up the engine, I needed to go with extra discs and 300 lb. springs to keep it from slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Sounds like you have it sorted, but here is an option I didn't see mentioned. You said you only have room for two pedals, so how about making them clutch and brake and move the throttle to hand. You could have a twist grip on your shifter.
BTW I don't have the pressure for a GoldWing, but my old CB750 had around 250 lbs. of clutch springs, stock. Because after I built up the engine, I needed to go with extra discs and 300 lb. springs to keep it from slipping.
That happens to be a great idea ! Where were you when I was designing this trike? If my electric clutch does not work out, I will actually pursue that. Since the shifter is vertical, and not horizontal, it should be easier on the hand, as well. Good job !
Edward
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I had promised to show the finished electric clutch device, and have added the You Tube video of the operation. I always get a little nervous when I'm narrating a video, so please forgive some minor technical errors. I didn't think they were important enough to redo the whole thing. I think it takes about two minutes.

 
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