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Is there a problem with some auto parts store 30 amp blade type (ATO) Fuse/Fuse Holders; maybe a manufacturer or brand?
Has anyone else had a problem with them????
I hate for us to be recommending something that might cause a problem later.
I have seen where a lot of members havereplaced the Dog Bone Fuse with a 30 amp Fuse/Fuse Holder bought from auto parts stores and they are workingwell for them, mine too.
Activethread now: Click Here-Fuse Holder
This is another members post on a couple of threads about replacing the 30 amp dog bone fuse:
I swapped a blade fuse holder rated 30 amps on a KZ1000 and found it getting hot and showing signs of burning where the wire was crimped to the connector. Since it's covered with rubber you can't see the crimp. Mine was discoloring the rubber. They didn't look foreign made either. I ended up buying heavy angle blade connectors and soldering.

When I bought both `Wings I didn't mess with the auto store pre-made fuse holders. I hope others have better luck.
 

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Like GSMclean said in the other post Make sure it's rated for at least 30 amps, with 12-guage wire.
I've had one of these in my bike for 3 years with no problems. You may have a short somewhere. I also put dialetric grease on the fuse blades before inserting them.
 

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Top quality blade fuse holders are rated at 80% (continuous) of the rated size. So a 30amp fuse holder would be good for 24amp continuous current and of course a burst of 30amp MAX

Of course there could be poor quality fuse holders out there.
 

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tricky wrote:
Of course there could be poor quality fuse holders out there.
The automotive stuff is low voltage so little if any regulation is involved. You can get cheap fuses, holders, crimps, crimpers etc. All put together by someone who has no interest in the quality of your life.



Always try to buy a brand name.
 

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One thing that is seldom discussed is going to Honda and buying new dogbone fuses. Most of the failures related to this style has more to do with the fuse being on the bike for 20+ years subject to moisture and vibration, be it a small amount. They are still available and fairly cheap so you could buy a couple of spares. No splicing dicing or modifying the wiring involved.

I went to: http://www.servicehonda.com/test/index.htm and they still have them listed in stock for .68 a piece.

My .02 worth.:waving:

Hobie
 

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True, that is if the plastic holder is still in good condition which is not the case when we change to the blade type fuse.
Then it is either a cheap fix or buying the after market solenoid which has blade fuses in it which costs considerably more.
 

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Hobie1 wrote:
One thing that is seldom discussed is going to Honda and buying new dogbone fuses. Most of the failures related to this style has more to do with the fuse being on the bike for 20+ years subject to moisture and vibration, be it a small amount. They are still available and fairly cheap so you could buy a couple of spares. No splicing dicing or modifying the wiring involved.
...unless you blow the thing far away from home, and don't have a spare. You aren't going to find a replacement dogbone fuse at your local Wal-Mart. But I'm pretty sure I can find a replacement 30 amp standard blade automotive fuse there.
 

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I looked into installing a blade style fuse with holder when I converted to a Compufire alternator. I visited several parts stores looking for something rated for approx. 10% to 15% above my expected aperage and could only find assmblies that were rated to 60 amps. Another requirement I had was that the assembly had to be readily available incase I were stuck on the road someday. During my search, it turned out that NAPA carried the dog; I have stayed with the dog bone style fuses for now.
 

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Thanks to all that posted an input and/or looked at this thread.:clapper:
:gunhead:MaybeI startedan unnecessary thread. There have been over 140 views. Looks like we have beat this dog enough.
I am satisfied so far with my Blade type fuse holder on my GL 1100A but will inspect it every now and then. My Starter Relay is still in good shape andI do have a new dog bone in the spare slot should I need it someday.
One member did post on another thread that 12 gauge wire is good for about 41 amps of current. This information is for chassis wiring normally where 120 volts AC is used.
Automotive wiring charts show that5 feet of 12 gauge wire,at 12 volts, is ratedfor 100 amps and 600 watts (10 gauge wire, 150 amps, 900 watts) .
My conclusion: Honda placed a 30 amp dog bone fuse in the circuit, so a 30 amp rated automotive storeblade type fuse/fuse holder should more than take care of the circuit, unless the fuse holder is not good quality, or there is something wrong in the load.
 

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As the starter of the "other" thread, I would agree that the fuse replacement is a viable alternative to the dogbone, I was mostly curious if there were better options/higher qualitythan the parts house specials out there, I seem to be good at picking the crappiest ones out there it seems. I dont have a problem with the amp load melting the wiring, which would normally be a weak point, I have the one side of the holder cooking on me.
 

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I failed to mention in my post that I too had converted to the 30 amp blade type fuse holder. I did use a marine style to waterproof it a bit more. I used ring terminals on the ends of the wires and used the screws that did hold the dogbone fuse in place to attach the wires. It's worked just fine for the last several years. It was only after I'd replaced the OEM with the blade type that it occured to me about what I posted above. Whatever works the best for ya and keeps ya on the road.:action:

Regards,

Hobie:waving:
 
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