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Is there a problem with some auto parts store 30 amp blade type (ATO) Fuse/Fuse Holders; maybe a manufacturer or brand?
Has anyone else had a problem with them????
I hate for us to be recommending something that might cause a problem later.
I have seen where a lot of members havereplaced the Dog Bone Fuse with a 30 amp Fuse/Fuse Holder bought from auto parts stores and they are workingwell for them, mine too.
Activethread now: Click Here-Fuse Holder
This is another members post on a couple of threads about replacing the 30 amp dog bone fuse:
I swapped a blade fuse holder rated 30 amps on a KZ1000 and found it getting hot and showing signs of burning where the wire was crimped to the connector. Since it's covered with rubber you can't see the crimp. Mine was discoloring the rubber. They didn't look foreign made either. I ended up buying heavy angle blade connectors and soldering.

When I bought both `Wings I didn't mess with the auto store pre-made fuse holders. I hope others have better luck.
 

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Thanks to all that posted an input and/or looked at this thread.:clapper:
:gunhead:MaybeI startedan unnecessary thread. There have been over 140 views. Looks like we have beat this dog enough.
I am satisfied so far with my Blade type fuse holder on my GL 1100A but will inspect it every now and then. My Starter Relay is still in good shape andI do have a new dog bone in the spare slot should I need it someday.
One member did post on another thread that 12 gauge wire is good for about 41 amps of current. This information is for chassis wiring normally where 120 volts AC is used.
Automotive wiring charts show that5 feet of 12 gauge wire,at 12 volts, is ratedfor 100 amps and 600 watts (10 gauge wire, 150 amps, 900 watts) .
My conclusion: Honda placed a 30 amp dog bone fuse in the circuit, so a 30 amp rated automotive storeblade type fuse/fuse holder should more than take care of the circuit, unless the fuse holder is not good quality, or there is something wrong in the load.
 
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