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I have found that my boot has a small tear in it. How important is this boot as in keeping dirt and such out. I have it pulled back and it is very clean in there. I have talked to another gw owner and his opinion is that there is seals in both sides so that nothing can get in the motor or rear of the u joint, I wonder?? It is a real pain in the rear to get that swing arm out? If anybody could give me a tip or two on that procedure it would be super. I have the factory service manual and it seems like it could something that is just a little over my head. I have the back wheel off now and I think I have discovered a bad right side wheel bearing. Kinda rough compared to the left side which is smooth as silk. Have it torn down cause I developed a bad vibration and a weird clunk sound at times. Could a bad wheel bearing cause such a noticeble vibration?? I am at a loss to where the clunk is coming from. But I am closer to finding the source of my vibration. I really dont think the u joint is bad. So I am delving on to get my butt back on that comfy seat. Still plenty of nice weather here in Wa. Thanks Ride on
 

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Since you already have the wheel out , go ahead and pull the final drive . You could have slop in the spline at the final input shaft , or either side of the U-Joint including the joint cross . I have not done this , but would think with the final drive off , you could possibly slide the drive shaft/ujoint to the rear and slip a new boot into place . It is available still and not to costly as I remember .



YES a wheel bearing can give a lot of vibration .
 

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When you remove the final drive unit, the drive shaft comes out with it. Then you can slide the U-joint off the transmission shaft and install the boot.

If this is on your 1998 Gold Wing, use a Valkyrie boot
part # 52104-MZ0-A40.

And here is the reason why.............

Honda used Valkyrie U-joints (slightly larger and stronger) on the 1997 - 2000 Gold Wing's. But they used the Gold Wing boot. Results were the U-joint would rub a hole in the boot in a few short thousand miles. I had mine replaced under warranty when my bike was only about one year old. Honda did not do a recall but replaced them under warranty when folks returned with the problem (during the 3-year warranty period).

PS: While you have the final drive unit removed, lube those rear drive shaft splines with Honda Moly 60 paste (lube). You may also want to install a new oil seal on the drive shaft. Part # 91261-ME9-005 and they cost about 7.00. Reference pages 11-2 through 11-5 in the Honda service manual.

If you don't have these pages, shoot me an e-mail, I have them on my computer.

Dave [email protected]


One more thought, since you only have 23,000 miles on your bike, check with your local dealership service department. Tell them you know the torn drive shaft boot was a known problem from the factory and many of them were replaced under warranty. You might just get lucky and they will replace it. If they bulk at the idea, request they check with the Honda service representative in that area. He has the authority to authorize the work to be done under warranty. You have nothing to loose by taking this approach.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Thanks for the great info. Are you telling me that the swing arm doesn't have to be removed to get at the u joint? That would be wonderful!! But the way I look at it in the manual it does. Am I missing something? Thanks, I will let you know what transpires in the next week or so. Oh yeah, I am going to order new Michelin Pilot Gt's while I have the rear apart, new pads and a set of Progressive's. Good to get it all done while it's all apart right!! Thanks again Ride On................
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Thanks once again Dave. When the shaft is out is there enough room to slide the u joint off the output shaft without hitting the cross section?. That way a guy could get his hands on it and really inspect it for wear. I will check it out tomorrow after work. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Kevin Ride On.................
 

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Wingboomer wrote:
Thanks once again Dave. When the shaft is out is there enough room to slide the u joint off the output shaft without hitting the cross section?. That way a guy could get his hands on it and really inspect it for wear. I will check it out tomorrow after work. Will let you know how it goes. Thanks again. Kevin Ride On.................
Yes, there is enough room..!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Hey Dave, I know you might think I am a little wacked out asking all these questions but when you pull out the driveline from the swingarm wont the back half of the u joint fall and could it be a bear to get it back into position to re insert the driveline back into the joint? Also seems like there isnt much room to get the new boot back on the swingarm lip where the boot attachs. And I look at all the bearings and crap that are in the swing arm it makes me kinda nervous it will all fit back into it without getting hung up. I am kind of reserve about pulling all that out and putting it back in right. I think I am going to order new bearings from All Balls, seems like good company. Thanks once again,,, kevin
 

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Wingboomer wrote:
Hey Dave, I know you might think I am a little wacked out asking all these questions but when you pull out the driveline from the swingarm wont the back half of the u joint fall and could it be a bear to get it back into position to re insert the driveline back into the joint? Also seems like there isnt much room to get the new boot back on the swingarm lip where the boot attachs. And I look at all the bearings and crap that are in the swing arm it makes me kinda nervous it will all fit back into it without getting hung up. I am kind of reserve about pulling all that out and putting it back in right. I think I am going to order new bearings from All Balls, seems like good company. Thanks once again,,, kevin

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Most times, the u-joint will stay put, there is a chance it could drop down slightly depending on how it is positioned at the time.

When you slide the drive shaft back into the rear of the u-joint, you may need to rotate the gear on the final drive unit (which in turn rotates the drive shaft) a little to allow the shaft to slip into the u-joint. But they usually go back in without much problem.

On the boot, kinda roll the lip of the boot back on itself, then when in place, roll the lip of the boot onto the drive shaft housing.

The only thing that will come out of the swing arm is the drive shaft. You don't need to be worried about bearing or anything else coming out when you remove the drive shaft from the swing arm.

Don't make it more than necessary, it is not a difficult job.
 

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The UJ boot is important for keeping water and dirt out of the UJ itself. If the boot rips open it can fly around and hit off other items.
 

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the u joint gets a little floppy but the splines wear out and cause the vibes....also check the swing arm bolts for correct position....the splines at the rear end wear and the drive coupling wears and can occasionally skip depending on how far gone the splines are...the clunk is probably the rearend
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Well I removed the drive shaft and all is good. I cant seem to get the u joint out,I moved all the wiring and the brakelight switch bracket out of the way. Doesnt seem there is enough room. I cant finagel it out of there. Hits the output shaft. Dont think it will come out the bottom either. Maybe it wont or will it? I did some checking on the play of it and seems to me that it is tight. I hung on to the u joint with a big plier and turned the shaft and there is a very small amount of play but I think that is the normal slack between all the splines and rear end bevel gears. In looking at the u joint with a lite it doesnt appear to be loose or any grease or filings of any type in there. So I do believe the joint is good. When spinning the shaft I dont feel any inconsistencies as it moves around.. I know there is no load on it and I'm sure that would make a difference too. I am just wondering what that clunk would be? I know I have the bad shaft side wheel bearing that I do think is causing my vibration so that can be fixed easy enough. Anyway thanks again to all who have contributed to my post on getting this Wing back on the road.
 

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Kevin, Not sure what your problem is with the u-joint. We just replaced a drive shaft boot on a 1996 Aspencade two weeks ago without even taking the drive shaft out. Took a little prying because of the spring on the front of the drive shaft but we got the u-joint off the transmission shaft. With the drive shaft out, that spring is not an issue for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Hi Dave, yes I did take the drive shaft out and removed the torn boot. No problem there. Just wondering if you can get the whole u joint out of the swingarm and away from the bike to the bench and inspect it. Just ordered the new Valk boot today. Seems like everything is still tight, just waiting for the tires, bearings and boot to arrive. What kind of grease would be good for that big nylon washer under the spline?Oh yeah I also ordered the new o-ring that sits down on the bottom of the big spline to keep the grease inside the housing. Would moly 60 be ok or a good bearing grease be better? Thanks again. kevin
 

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I would use the Moly 60 lube. With the drive shaft out, you should be able to remove the u-joint for inspection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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I tried for 15 -20 minutes to work that u out and it just wont clear the output shaft. turned it this way and that way. I need about a 1/4 inch one way or another for it to fit through the space between the shaft and the frame. Oh well I tried. Thanks Dave, Talk at ya soon... probably.. Kevin
 

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you can take out the swing arm bolt on that side and get just enough room....but sometimes the bolt and nut(special tool needed) are hard to get loose(mine stuck solid after much trying)....you can also nudge the upper lip of the housing up with a drift and hammer to get the 30 thou of more space you need to get the joint out thru the top lip
i dont know why this wasn't designed in.....i finally did mine like that and still going strong smooth after 5 yrs
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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I just realized why that darn u joint wouldnt come out. Like a previous post here, the joint from 97 - 00 were bigger, from the Valk and that why it wont come out like the normal GL u joint. Any way thanks for the tip on getting it out. Will try to bend that outer metal, that will work the way I look at. Only need just a little smidge of extra room to get at it. Thanks Ride On.....
 
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