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On my way home from work today, I was crossing the mountains and started to hear some interesting sounds from the GL1200.

At first - I was thinking serious engine problems - but it was running strong and no problems.

I pulled over as soon as I found a turnout area, and began to try to diagnose the issue.

It appears to be a driveline related noise. I'm *hoping* that it's rear brakes just clattering. Something inside my noggin says that I'm being self-delusional. (And I reserve the right to be self-delusional. It's fun)

What are the common failures of the GL-1200 that are driveline related? I know BMW is well known for final-drive failures, but all my prior GL-1200s have been bullet-proof.

Oh - and as I was getting home - it got quiet. I don't believe in the power of self-healing bikes, so I guess it's just f*&king with me. :)
 

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Sometimes the wind direction can make you hear noises that you've never heard before. Same with an echo off concrete dividers etc.
 

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All the 1200s except the 87 are known for noisey drive. In extreme cases the drive unit bearings need replacing and some even strip the hub splines if ya don't lube them. If the noise is gone now then quit worrying unless it comes back again.
 

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Put it on the centerstand and run it in gear and get your ear down there and listen

to see if you can hear it and isolate it
 

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bikgra wrote:
Put it on the centerstand and run it in gear and get your ear down there and listen

to see if you can hear it and isolate it
I did that at my pullover spot in the mountains - and it seemed that the driveshaft area was the source of the noise.

I've ordered some brake pads, and am planning to get it torn down a little for that job, and lube the drive splines.

Hopefully that will be the end of it! Got my fingers crossed!! ;)
 

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Check oil level in final drive and see if its down.

If its low u could have a seal/bearing prob in it . and check your front u joint by pulling the rubber boot back and c if there is freeplay or slop in it.



These are 2 quick things to check without teardown that could help you determine whats up.
 

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The bike has only 30,000 miles. (Don't blame me - I just got it a few months ago! :D)

I pulled the rubber boot and lubed the splines with the same white grease I use on British Wire wheel splines.

The noise may be lessened a little - but it's still there. Hmmmmm.

I'm going to check the rear fluid and change the rear brake pads. (yes I know that's delusional).
 

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I'm waiting for the bike to get back. I've got it at the local Honda dealer, getting the ignition switch recall done. I can't wait.

If it DOES turn out to be that bearing in the driveline, how difficult is removal of the drive shaft assembly?

I've changed the rear tire myself just a few thousand miles ago, and lubed the hub drive pegs well. I'm guessing that after removing the rear wheel there's still considerable work to do to remove the assembly?
 

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I am suspecting that the failure might be the bearing identified as #14. But then again, I'm sitting here, contemplating it without my bike here. I need to quit and just fix some coffee. :D
 

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Got my bike back from the safety recall - it's now not shutting itself off from dodgy wiring.

So I get it home - seems okay.

I took it to work this morning..... things started going downhill. Driveline is making squeaking and banging noises. Finally, I begin to slow down, and the bike is surging a little - the feeling that you get driving over bad pavement.

I could sense that a seizure of the driveline was eminent and got it stopped. A towtruck took it home for me. (Thank you AAA!).

Tonite I just purchased a used rear-end for $100, and got a sneak peek at it as I was putting it in the car. There's a u-joint in there, that doesn't show up in the Honda Fiche.

I wonder if its just the u-joint going out??? Here's hoping!!!

Wondering.... do I have to pull the rear out a lot just to liberate that u-joint? Does anyone have experience with this one???
 

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What you are describing sounds like a failing u joint even though they dont usually fail at that low a mileage. Pull back the rubber boot covering the u joint . Turn the rear wheel in both directions by hand both in gear and out andcheck both visually and by feelfor any movement in the joint. You cana lso run it on the main stand again and see if you can detect a problem at the joint. Even if the joint seems ok it would be wise to lube it at this time with preferably Honda Moly 60 pasteRemove the rear wheel, remove the 4 nuts securing the rear drive and pull it out. The drive shaft will disconnect from the u joint at this time. Lube the driveshaft splines. Push the u joint back and lube the output shaft. Slide the u joint back onto the output shaft and then re-install the drive shaft/ rear drive . You should also replace the drive shaft seal at this time.( Also use moly paste on the rear wheel splines)If you find that the u joint is faulty/loose you will have to remove the swingarm to replace it . Doing that requires a special swingarm bolt tool so that it can be re-torqued properly. If you cant borrow that tool it can easily be fabricated.This may or may not be your problem but it an easy place to start checking...........GM
 

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Awesome!

I probably wasted a little money buying this second-hand rear end, but the time and learning taking it out of the bike was kinda cool.

I'm hoping the u-joint is the issue! Thank you!
 

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The drive shaft seal that GLGREZMONKI refers to is item 29, located on the Swingarm/Driveshaft fiche. Iinstalled a new onewhen I had to replaced the torn swingarm boot on my bike.I had heard from others that if you don't replace this seal you will get final drive oil leaking onto the driveshaft.
 

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Wow - what a pain in the azzzz job this is.

I may have made it too large of a job. I've had the whole swingarm out - that's a hella job.

I didn't replace the pinion. I replaced the ujoint and driveshaft. The noise in still there. Ugh. I need to change the pinion with the one I received with the other rear-end.

I would have changed everything the first time but I wanted to know what the real problem is.

I'll report as I change the pinion.

I kinda wish the damn thing would just sieze now. :(
 
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