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Hi-

Removed the rear wheel and final drive, and the splined coupler from my 81 GL1100I. I was surprised to find all this grease up in the driveshaft housing, should it be there?

OK, must be the pics are to large. I put them in the gallery,here is a link. Please let me know what you think.


You'll also see in there a pic of my final drive. Is there supposed to be a seal or oring where arrow 1 is pointing, or is there a seal under the washer at "2", it kinda looks like a double washer there to me. I see one obvious sealin this picture, but the diagram shows a smaller one belongs on the assembly somewhere.
 

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There is a grease fitting on the shaft tube, that is likely where the grease came from. I don't think it is a problem as it probably built up over time or someone with a power greaser just kept pumping. Make sure the grease is in good shape and not gone crusty or taken on moisture.

At least SOMONE has found and used this often missed greasing point.
 

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Just clean out the old grease and relube your splines with Moly Paste. Then ignore the zerk fitting. The zerks were fitted on the Honda swingarms after people had problems with worn splines and before they started using Moly Paste. Once the Moly Paste became the recommended lube, the zerks disappeared.
 

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OK, I was just a little concerned because all this is up in the middle of the drive shaft housing, forward of the big oil seal. I've noticed the zerk that's actually on the final drive housing, but I didn't spot one on the shaft housing, I'll have to look at that when I get home.

Thanks.
 

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I just removed my rear wheel to get the gas tank out. While cleaning the final drive casing I noticed a zerk fitting on top. Should I clean the gear from the final drive to the wheel good and relube? If so, does the Moly paste work for this or should it be another type of grease? Also, what about the axle, what should I do about that, just wipe & relube?
 

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The axle just needs a good cleaning. I wipe on a thin coat of grease just to help prevent rust and corrosion. Moly Paste is good for all the splines including the ones on the final drive flange that mounts into the wheel.
 

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Loctite 51048 or Honda Moly 60 are good products. You should be able to find the stuff online or at your Honda dealer some car parts stores have moly paste. I got an 8oz. jug of Loctite 51048 on ebay, the stuff isn't cheap but it's used pretty sparingly. Just make sure that the moly paste or grease contains at least 60% moly, anything less doesn't meet Honda specs.
 

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Ok gentlemen, my tank will be back from being sealed this week (YIPPIE!!....BTW, I sent it to Elizabeth Radiator whom Randakk's suggested, cost less than $100 with all shipping). Anyway, going to get the Moly paste to grease the splines, etc., anything else I should prepare for while putting it back together? (i.e.- brakes, drive shaft, etc. I'm also replacing the rear tire while I'm at it.

Also, now that my screens have been removed from the tank, I plan on putting 2 fuel filters on to maintain the cleanliness, any suggetions on who's to use?

Another issue, I bought new gaskets from Randakk's to rebuild the petcock with, came with 2 little ones (which is easy to tell where thay go) and one large one with 4 holes which appears to go behind the selector handle. However, my petcock has like 2 pressed in rivets or something, not screws,that I don't think I can replace myself. Anyone got help or suggestions?:baffled:

Appreciate any help.
 

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I wouldn't bother with two filters. The first filter will catch all the crud and the second filter won't see any so you won't gain anything. It if worries you carry a spare filter but I doubt you'll ever need it. Filters aren't critical, get one from a parts store that's around the same size. If the bracket doesn't fit it, it can hang on the fuel line, you are replacing the fuel line, and a tie wrap around the filter and through the clamp hole will keep it happy.

Yes you can install Randakk's petcock rebuild kit I installed one on my 1100. Those are not rivets you're looking at. They are raised bosses on the rear casting of the petcock. Carefully drill out the center of them, file off the top of the peened heads if necessary and you can separate the two halves of the petcock. I drilled through the bosses and tapped for a 4-40 machine screw and reassembled with a screw and small washer. Works fine.
 
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