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I MADE THE METAL BAR AND IVE JUST HAD IT RECHROMED ITS EXPENSIVE BUT GOOD.BEND IT TO THE SHAPE YOU WANT.IT MUST BE AT LEAST 1/8th THICK TO STOP THE LIGHTS FROM SHAKEN THEN DRILL TWO HOLE S IN THE FRONT FOR TO FIT ON THE BOLTS WHAT ARE ON THE FORKS,AND THEN TWO HOLES IN THE SIDE S FOR THE BOLTS TO GO IN .THEN GET SOME CHROME TUBE CUT THEM INTO TWO SECTIONS FOR EACH SIDE,AND FIT THEM IN BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE LIGHTS AND PUT A CHROME DOOMED NUT ON THE END AND THERE YOU HAVE IT,I THINK IT LOOKS BETTER THAN THEM OLD BRACKETS WHAT YOU GET WITH THE LIGHTS.BUT IT S UP TO YOU.TO WHAT YOU LIKE BEST ,:jumper::jumper:
 

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For one of my GL1100 I made 2 brackets out of 1/8 in aluminium and polished the pieces but I mounted mine using the fender mounting bolts as I want them to illuminate the road as I turn. Living in the country I travel down to many back roads and like to see what road kill is in front of me as I turn.:action:
 

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mainwiz3 wrote:
For one of my GL1100 I made 2 brackets out of 1/8 in aluminium and polished the pieces but I mounted mine using the fender mounting bolts as I want them to illuminate the road as I turn. Living in the country I travel down to many back roads and like to see what road kill is in front of me as I turn.:action:
Do you get a lot of vibration in the lights having them mounted as unsprung weight, on the wheel? I would be interested to see how long the bulb filaments last like that.
 

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The way Sixfore made those has got me to thinking about see how well a couple of 1100 antenna mounts would work for installing driving lights on my bike.
 
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