If you installed a pair of 55 watt lights it is too much draw for the 1100s charging system especially if you are riding in town or low RPMs. You could take the bulbs and get matching type in 35 watt and be Ok or change the tail and front position bulbs to LEDs, or both.
I replaced my H-3, 55 watt, Driving Light bulbs with 35 watt bulbs that put out 70 watts of light. These are pricey but worth it to me. You can also buy 35 watt bullbs which will save power over the 55 watt.
See the link below for more information on GL 1100 electrical load.
True. The 83 Aspencade has a 60 amp rating. I do not know the voltage, unless it like my 80 which is 14.4. I disconnected my lower driving lights and have my rear running lights on my 80 wired to my taillight. It will drop from 14.4 down to 11.4 until I let off. I am going to disconenct them and just use them for rear running lights. Also the 80 has a 45 watt capacity on the stator. I also found out by putting in the correct battery helps tremendously. Not a cheap Auto Zone Battery. A 20amp/hr 12Volt Battery will suffice.
:waving:bryan, Iam not trying to hijack your thread but you do need correct information if you are working on GL 1100 electrical load. There are several things that you can do to change the electrical load and run driving lights.
:waving:Nightrider1, I think you are referring to the GL 1500 for the 60 amp rating. I can only wish my 1983 GL 1100 Aspencade did have 60 amps available. I only have 20-25 amps available on my 1983 Aspencade. Your 1980 should have 300W (20-25 amps) capacity at 5000 rpm. 45 watts would only provide 3.75 amps and the headlight on bright (60W) willrequire 5 amps. All the GL 1100's have the same rating. The GL 1200 has 360W (30 amps) rating at 5000 rpm. A 20 amp/hr, 12 volt, battery is the OEM standard. I plan to try one of the sealed Gel batteries,since many members here swear by them.
My bike voltmeter shows about 14 volts with rpm up, and around 12 volts at idle. With my setup now, I do not have a problem of draining the battery with everything on. I can also run a heat suit along with a car electric blanket in the sidecar. I do turn off the driving lights when in slow/stopping traffic. I have on hand, not installed yet, a Driving Light Control Unit that will dim my driving lights with the headlight so I should be able to run the driving lights in slow/stopping traffic.:clapper:
Honda Goldwing 1980-1983 Service Manual:
Alternator, A. C. generator, 12 V 300W/5000 rpm
Battery capacity, 12V-20AH
Performance Test:The battery charge rate testshould be 3A, 13-15 volt DC at 3000 rpm.
To convert Watts to Amps: Amps = Watts divided by Voltage
300W divided by 12 = 25amps-GL 1100 capacity at 12 volts
300W divided by 14.5= 20.69 amps-GL 1100 capacity at 14.5 volts
110W divided by 12 = 9.2 amps-Two 55W Driving Lights
70W divided by 12 = 5.8 amps-Two 35W Driving Lights
60W divided by 12 = 5 amps-Headlight on bright
45W divided by 12 = 3.75 amps
One 1157 Tail/brake light bulb: 8 watts-tail, 23 watts-brake
Another question that comes up is about overloading the Stator on the GL 1100. The stator starts to put out at about 1800 rpm. The statormaximum outputis300 watts at 5000 rpm and any current/wattage not needed for the electrical load, or charging the battery, is shunted to ground.
I, like everyone else have load problems on my 82 1100. These bikes won't support 55w driving lights with all other lights being stock bulbs.
Now, like others, I've changed out all the turn, brake and running lights to led's, replaced the 55w driving light bulbs with 35w bulbs and now have plenty of charging current for the bike. I can now run the driving lights all the time, even in city traffic if I want to. I even replaced the battery last week at the same time I installed the 35w driving light bulbs. It's not a gel battery but it is a sealed battery so i don't have to worry over acid overflow anymore.