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Okay, I would have searched for this, but search is being rebuilt.

I am mechanically functional. I own and work on a KLR. But I am new to Goldwing.

I have been on the lookout for a "very inexpensive" Goldwing to fix and ride. My buddy sold his 1981 several years ago to another friend. The other friend, apparently, ran it with the oil "low". I dont know details. It stopped running, he put oil in, then it ran "rough". I am just telling what I have been told here. I asked about the stator, I was told he wasnt sure it was charging.

OT "other friend" then bought a 1982 GW to fix the 1981. I am told it was a runner when he got it but had issues. I dont yet know the issues.

So, I can acquire both bikes, extra parts, a set of new tires, I am not sure what all. OT told me he would take $800 for all of it. Obviously, I will offer less. OT is NO mechanic, is very impatient, has bought another bike, and just wants it gone.

So, I ask all you experienced Goldwing mechanics.......
What should I really look at/for to determine if there is a chance that I should do this?
What would you offer?
In a worst case scenario, could I at least get my money back parting the bikes out?

I humbly ask for your wisdom.....

Thank you!

Philip
 

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If he wants rid of them tell him you will do him the favor and take them off his hands as of the above you might have 1 runner, might not too. Get a repair manual to start. Max $300-350
 

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You are not in bad shape if you get both of them at the same time.Make sure to get paper work on both[titles].
The only thing that might not swap between the 2 is the fuel tank and parts of the swing arm.
Take the best of 2 and make a good one,sell the rest on e-bay.
 

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First of all, there is no such as a dumb question (except the one you dont ask). If I had'nt asked a "dumb question" about an oil leak, I'd be riding around with oil leaking on my exaust, risking fire and my a**!



See post entitled "Oil leak and paypal info" by Regulator Flash:readit:



By the wayI think You'd be getting a good deal!
 

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Thanks for the replies. Again, I havent seen the bikes yet. Or at least I havent seen the 81 in several years, and have never seen the 82.

I guess I need to see if the engines will turn over? 5th gear and turn rear wheel? Pull plugs first?

What is the most likely thing to have ruined if he ran it with a low oil level? crank bearing? Rings? I dont even know the possibilities.

Is there a best way to check for internal frame rust?

I assume there is no way to check the stator when not running? Or is there a multi tester way to test and tell?

On the KLR, I know what and where to check for abuse, neglect, etc. Is there a basic routine or check list you guys use? I know there is common sense crossover, but I assume the GW doesnt have a doohickey, for example....LOL

Again, thanks for the replies! I look forward to more!

Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Thanks for the replies. Again, I havent seen the bikes yet. Or at least I havent seen the 81 in several years, and have never seen the 82.

I guess I need to see if the engines will turn over? 5th gear and turn rear wheel? Pull plugs first?

What is the most likely thing to have ruined if he ran it with a low oil level? crank bearing? Rings? I dont even know the possibilities.

Is there a best way to check for internal frame rust?

I assume there is no way to check the stator when not running? Or is there a multi tester way to test and tell?

On the KLR, I know what and where to check for abuse, neglect, etc. Is there a basic routine or check list you guys use? I know there is common sense crossover, but I assume the GW doesnt have a doohickey, for example....LOL

Again, thanks for the replies! I look forward to more!

Philip
 

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Look at the center stand,if the metal where it is attached is wrinkled could be a problem. There is a link on the left side below engine [allows you to remove engine], check for rust. Can get you some $ reduction but no big thing.
The brakes will most likely lock up as soon as you put on the brakes if they have not been used[an o0ther $ buster].Use the force on the rest.
Have fun.:ROFL::ROFL::ROFL:
 

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For the stater test the three yellow wires, mark them A, B, and C.
Continuity between A/B, A/C, and B/C is good.
Continuity between A, B, or C and ground is bad.

If it passes this simple test it's probably good.
 

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Awesome.

Ken, is there a preferred place to access the stator wires? Where do these wires terminate in a connector?

Thanks, guys! Please throw me the basics. Assume I know very little.
 

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The stator wires can be checked in the battery area. you will see three yellow wires with connector easy check. I have a manual on cd pm me if you need it
 
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