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Picked up a '79 'wing that has had the original carbs removed and a homemade intake with a Solex 28 installed and the points replaced with a Dyna.. Rode it home, no bottom end, not to bad above 3k RPM.. So in I go (after redoing the cooling system. hoses, radiator sent for a visit to the radiator shop, new stat) to attempt to get the bottom end and idle straightened out. Plugs are OK, coil is close (going to replace it anyway, found some cracks when I pulled it for a visual).. Off to the timing. Way retarded when I went to adjust the left side, get it where it should be and go to adjust the right one.. The test light acted weird, dim light.. Wouldn't adjust.. Poking around here and elsewhere I find it's not uncommon for them to butt up at the top and not have enough adjustment.. Fine, split the difference.. Fire the bike up, anything below 2k and it goes to stumbling and dies.. Ugh.. Ok, this sux.. Fuel or ignition?!?! Poke at the Solex a bit, spray carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks.. Nada.. Ok, poke at ignition more.. this is where it gets a bit strange.. On F2 I get 12v on both leads from the modules.. Rotate the crank towards F1 and both drop off.. (Forgive me as I'm not familiar enough with wings to remember which coil is which module).. The lead from the left drops to 0 volts, the lead from the right drops to 7 volts.. And stays 7 volts past F1 back to F2 when both come back up to 12 volts.. So, I guess a call to Dyna is on the agenda for tomorrow. Looking for ideas as after tomorrow the weather here is supposed to drop back to below the comfortable riding level again :(
 

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Ok, played with it some more today. More weirdness.. Not 100% sure it's the electronic ignition.. Seems sometimes when setting the timing it reads 12v, most of the time 7v.. Looking at the diagram it should be 7v all of the time. When running it sometimes jump up in RPMs but I've not been able to catch it doing it while my voltmeter is hooked up, so I'm not sure that's what's causing the RPM jump.. I've moved the timing from way retarded to way advanced and can not alter the way it runs by much, and never heard any pinging. I threw in a new set of plugs today as the others were covered in soot and I thought that might be some of the problem. Ugh.. Now to find a cheap points backing plate and go back to points for now.. Oh, yeah.. All Dyna had to say was if I thought it was the electronics send it back to them and they'd test it.
 

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Welcome hp,
Some on here have reported getting free testing at Dynatek, and free replacement of defective module. Just a thought. If you are going back to points, might as well send it in.
P.S. I used to ride around the Hays Town myself.. :)
 

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Yeah, they said they'd test it.. Just need to come up with a backing plate.. Having ridden around Hays I guess you can relate to "Look, it's another wheat field" ;)
 

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:cheeky1:yea man
 

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Well, just won a points plate and chrome cover on ebay.. Gives me something to test with at least.
 

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My guess is your problems is with the carb. I could offer some suggestions if it was a conventional 4 carb set up but with the single carb you could chase your tail around for a long time.

You have too much air fuel/too little air/fuel who knows which. Most of these types of carbs had someway of warming themselves ( ie: water/manifold hot air) which is hard to do on a wing. Also could be a vaccum issue/float.

You may want to get a 4 carb set up and start from there. Single carbs are an animal all their own.
 

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Well, I got *most* of the carbs... I know there's two tops and slides missing.. Not sure about anything else.. The PO I got it from said that's how he ended up with it.. The PO before had carb problems and washed a cylinder.. I'm going after the cheap, easy first.. Having everything to go back to points on the road isn't an all bad deal.. Take a little while to convert, but better than no options. That and it really sounds electrical with the way it acts/sounds.. I guess this is what I get for buying one modded so far from stock and not running quite right thinking I'm the tech I was 20 years ago that took on anything and walked away smiling..
 

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You still are the tech you were 20 years ago.

You're just a bit rustier than you were then :D,

hang in there, you will find the problem and when you do, you will have the satisfaction of knowing "you fixed it."
 

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If you want to go back to the 4 carb set up, try & find a complete 4 carb set for parts that have the same carb numbers as the pieces you already have. That way you should be able to make 1 good set of 4 out of the parts. You can find the carb numbers on the flange area behind the slide cap.

There were 5 different versions of carb for the GL1000 series. You want to match the ones that fit your year of bike. Also the GL1100 carbs will fit & work.

From what I've read there is lots of pros & cons about a 1 carb set up. Very hard to outdo what came as stock on these bikes.
 

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That's something I'm considering.. Just a bit ago I realized the points backing plate I won on ebay doesn't come with the points cam (part of the vacuum advance maybe? I didn't care about the vacuum advance, the points are just for diagnostics and to carry Just In Case), so now I'll need to hunt that up as well. Not that it matters, weather sucks again.. It was 70 yesterday, doesn't look like it's going to break freezing today..
 

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Got to spend a little time on it this afternoon. timing belts are dead on. Will get it back together tomorrow and play some more. If nothing else get it back together and put some miles on it and see if there's cob webs that need cleared out ;)
 

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Got it! Got the parts gathered I needed to get points back in it and it's running fine now! Well, as fine as it will with a Solex 28, still hunting parts.. I need to inventory what I got with the bike as the original carbs to see what I have to work with there. Now for the electrical cleanup and other things I've been wanting to get to but put off as the bike wasn't running right.
 
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