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Ok, so I got my tires today, I'm in the assembly stage, it's late, I'm tired, I'd like to get to this wrapped up. I know I'm still new to bikes, and this is probably a stupid question that ya'll are gonna chuckle at, but humor me...

I got the front wheel on and the front end back together, then went to move to the back. When I put the front on I noticed the "direction" of the tread was different from it normally is on every other tire I've ever seen. Ok, different tire, could just be the way it is, the direction arrow is correct so I'll go with it. But then I go to put on the back and the tread pattern on that one is the oposite direction... WFT???

Both direction arrows are right, but the tread goes in oposite directions. Is the just the way the E3's are or is something amiss?

When I took these pics, I positioned the back tire as though it were taken from the same angle as the front...



 

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Yes it does seem odd when you look at them side by side but one is pushing the bike and the other is being pushed by the bike.

On a side note what thickness are your front rotors?
My books suggest that the LTD uses a 10mm rotor on the left and a 5mm rotor on the right but I've never been able to verify this.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Dyslexic engineers. :?

Dunlop & Metzler both do that.

Is the cap on the end of the fork showing a gap?
Yeah, the cap has a gap :cheesygrin:... I haven't torqued it down yet... I just barley droped the jack down, didn't want to torque the caps up in the air. I don't know if that's right or not, but it's how I've alwaysdone it on cars.

Ken, I just went out andthrew a caliper on'em for ya... now keep in mind this may not be original, but I read 10mm on both.

Thanks btw... I was close to a heart attack for a minute there... not that it matters, because it's right, butwhy the he!!do all the harley dunlops (the 404's and the like) and the smaller dunlops like on the shadows have the tread going the same direction on both? Like I said, doesn't really matter, just a curiosity now.
Thank you all :bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow:
 

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wilf wrote:
Front is for stopping rear is for going. Thats why the difference
Wilf
This is it in a nutshell. Under extreme gripping circumstances, such as a skid or slippage under power, you want any water to slide out from under the tire. TheV made by the sipes points in the direction of slippage so the water is swept outwards. The front tire points forward, the rear, backwards (at the contact patch, of course.) You can't have it both ways on the rear, but slippage under power happens a little bit all the time, really.That's why the tire wears flat.
 

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Blacky, I had the same doubts when I had mine first installed as the front does indeed appear to be backwards treadwise.... You've got the installation correct though!



2things..... One, make sure to loosen the fork brace bolts before tightening the axle caps Thentighten both front cap bolts, then the rear bolts, and then retighten the brace bolts. This will realign the front forks for you and is called out in the shop manual I believe!!


The second thing is when you first take her out I distinctly remember feellingthe rear end kinda wanting to "wash out" a bit to the right when I was turning left out of my driveway for my initial ride after installation. A bit "greasy" feelling maybe until after about 1/4 mile and scuffing the tires and bit and getting some heat in them...



After that though we're talking Super Glue!!!:cool::coollep::coollep:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
2things..... One, make sure to loosen the fork brace bolts before tightening the axle caps Thentighten both front cap bolts, then the rear bolts, and then retighten the brace bolts. This will realign the front forks for you and is called out in the shop manual I believe!!
Actually Don, the manual says nothing about the fork brace. That's an old trick a master Honda tech passed along to me years ago. And it works great! I think you probably picked it up from me. See what happens when you don't choose your friends wisely? :needahug:
 

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glhonda wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
2things..... One, make sure to loosen the fork brace bolts before tightening the axle caps Thentighten both front cap bolts, then the rear bolts, and then retighten the brace bolts. This will realign the front forks for you and is called out in the shop manual I believe!!
Actually Don, the manual says nothing about the fork brace. That's an old trick a master Honda tech passed along to me years ago. And it works great! I think you probably picked it up from me. See what happens when you don't choose your friends wisely? :needahug:
Yet once again I'm corrected by The Master.... :bow:And yes, I most likely got it from you when we were posting over at Vic's and it does prove one thing.. I do listen and learn from the Best..... :cool::coollep::coollep:
 

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I see no reason to loosen the fork brace if all you've done is remove the front axle.

Of course if you've loosened the brace then the axle should be tightened first to align the lowers before tightening the brace.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
I see no reason to loosen the fork brace if all you've done is remove the front axle.
Then don't do it.... All I'm doing is passing on lessons learned that have worked well for me in the past..... And if there's anyone person besides me that I would evertrust towork on my bike, it's Mike, (glhonda)....:cool::coollep::coollep:
 

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blackknytecnc wrote:
Ok, different tire, could just be the way it is, the direction arrow is correct so I'll go with it. But then I go to put on the back and the tread pattern on that one is the opposite direction... WFT???
hummm. . . .
If at first you don't succeed, try try again to install the tires sideways.
That way it don't matter which way the arrows are pointing.

"Stop and Go" are 2 different directions, as are the arrows.
Kinda like, "Lefty loosie and Righty tighty", unless you live "down under".
 

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roscoepc wrote:
Ken Bergen wrote:
I see no reason to loosen the fork brace if all you've done is remove the front axle.
Then don't do it.... All I'm doing is passing on lessons learned that have worked well for me in the past..... And if there's anyone person besides me that I would evertrust towork on my bike, it's Mike, (glhonda)....:cool::coollep::coollep:
If it makes you feel better taking the extra step by all means do it as it won't cause any harm.
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
roscoepc wrote:
Ken Bergen wrote:
I see no reason to loosen the fork brace if all you've done is remove the front axle.
Then don't do it.... All I'm doing is passing on lessons learned that have worked well for me in the past..... And if there's anyone person besides me that I would evertrust towork on my bike, it's Mike, (glhonda)....:cool::coollep::coollep:
If it makes you feel better taking the extra step by all means do it as it won't cause any harm.
Being as it's my hind end we're talking about,I'm gonna take this extra step personallyAND continue to recomend it to others that are removing the front wheel...:cool:











Just to make sure they get the best ride possible from their bike....:coollep::coollep::coollep:
 

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roscoepc wrote:
2things..... One, make sure to loosen the fork brace bolts before tightening the axle caps Thentighten both front cap bolts, then the rear bolts, and then retighten the brace bolts. This will realign the front forks for you and is called out in the shop manual I believe!!


The second thing is when you first take her out I distinctly remember feellingthe rear end kinda wanting to "wash out" a bit to the right when I was turning left out of my driveway for my initial ride after installation. A bit "greasy" feelling maybe until after about 1/4 mile and scuffing the tires and bit and getting some heat in them...



After that though we're talking Super Glue!!!:cool::coollep::coollep:
Ok, the fork brace thing would have been good to know BEFORE I had it all back together :yelling::ROFL::ROFL:, just messin' with ya, but it is good to know for next time.

On the "greasy" feeling... yeah, you could say that :D, actually lasted about 40 miles, and even at 60 now if I push it it's a still a bit slippery, but it's getting sticky-er by the mile!

I tell ya, this is all so wierd, it's like I actually have control of my bike now :shock:
 

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Ken Bergen wrote:
I see no reason to loosen the fork brace if all you've done is remove the front axle.
If you're putting on new tires, don't get an alignment. Those bolts have never been loosened, so the alignment is fine?

Over a period of time, things shift. The front forks/brace/axle. It's always a good idea to loosen the brace, then torque the lower cap bolts to ensure the forks are "square". Then retighten the brace to keep everyone happy.If you replace tires every three to four years, it most assuredlycould useit.
 
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