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I used the tilt up the rear section method today and changed my rear tire, Installed the Taxi Tire.
I think next time I tear down the rear for work I will remove the bags etc. I'll have to do the rear brake pads before to long but they are still good for long time yet.

Well, removing the seat, loosen the 2 frame bolts, remove 2 lower bolts that hold rear of crash bars was easy enough. That was where easy ends! :shock:
The lower mount for rear frame/bags is supposed to be slotted, one side has a washer welder on so no slot!
Other wise I had a lot of trouble getting the rear to lift, it kept binding up in places.
Looks like various parts of the bags hit against the crash guards, try to fall in behind the gards instead off goinf to the outside were they belong, the "Slotted" lower mounts want to go to the outside of the guards instead of the inside where they belong.
Can't really get in to anything to line it up, push, pull, or anything very well.
Can't see much what is in behind the bags or how things go together either.

I was thinking being my first time changing my 88 1500 rear tire I was looking at a couple hours maybe, but it took all day and it was a long day!
She's all back together now, but I took off the rear passenger boards, crash guards, and maybe some other things not mentioned in the HOW TO posts I read. It was a fight that lasted awhile to get the lower mounts lined up to get the bolts back in, even with crash guards off.

Well, the Taxi Tire is on! Now I have to see if I pulled a wire loose though because my on board compressor is not working now!
I would probably have pulled the bags etc.. and done it that way but there is a big AMP for the stereo in the one bag and a power inverter also. The amp has about 20 wires not marked and I did not want to mess with it, but I will be marking the wires and pretty sure next time it comes out and the bags off!

As far as actually changing the tire, that went fine. I hit the pins on the hub/wheel with Molly 60, the pins were dry! Mollyed Up the drive splines, the drive shaft on both ends etc..
I did not see anything bad for wear, though the dry pins had a bit of copper rubbed off. All splines looked good to me, though I'm not sure but think it was a regular grease in there, I cleaned it out and used Molly 60 on everything.
Haynes Manual says only the 88 and 89 should have the pins Mollyed.


Odd though, I loosed the bolt for the shock airline, heard a hiss, but that airshock was a bear to get off and back on, did not want to compress very well. System shows it still has 57lbs air?

It's all torqued to correct specs now.
80lbs for rear axle nut, it took far more force with a big torque wrench to put the nut on the axle than it took to remove it and I used the little wrench in the Honda kit to remove the nut! I'm not sure but maybe the rear axle was not tight enough and that was causing a little of my handling issue and the cupping on the E3 which was not bad but it has some. Still a good tire and I'm keeping it for a spare.

I did a short ride on the Taxi Tire, I think I like it! Screwy road but I think 1500 handled a little better than the E3 often does on that road. I see already my RPMs are lower and I like that! I think I dropped about 200rpm at 55, and 65 I think was still just under 3K, 3k and a tad over seemed to be around 70 and 75mph but I could not run enough to really tell at that speed on that road.
I get my air compressor working and change the oil hopefully tomorrow in time to get to HY and run a little harder to see where RPMs are at various speeds now.
 

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When I changed my rear tire in January, I pulled the bags. It wasn't that hard of a job for a newbie like me. While you're in there, change your rear drive oil....-Rich
 

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I tried up and over first time, it was dreadful.

Now I take off bags and its much easier, safer and quicker.
 

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Odd - I flip mine and change the rear tire every year, and have never had an issue.:?



Best sentence ever - "I'll have to do the rear brake pads before to long but they are still good for long time yet".
 

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Monkey with a Football
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I always pull my boxes. I find it much easier with the trailer hitch on.
Goes pretty quickly and I don't have to find anything to tie the boxes up with.
 

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Wingnumberone wrote:
Odd - I flip mine and change the rear tire every year, and have never had an issue.:?



Best sentence ever - "I'll have to do the rear brake pads before to long but they are still good for long time yet".
Ya, kinda an Oxymoron. I guess LOL

The pads have good meat still, so should last many many more miles, rest of season at least and maybe even next season, but I'll be changing them this winter anyway in case I do a ton of riding next year.
 

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I wonder how much I really need the AMP for the Stereo?
Sounds great, but a tiny bit of a pain.

It takes a decent amount of space in the bag, I worry about it heating up if I pack tight, and with all those wires it's a booger to remove that bag I bet.

Changing the final drive oil is what I forgot to do!
Had the lube on the shelf and was going to do it also while I was in there.
 

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Well, I try to plan ahead and was thinking if I had to do a tire someday on side of road the lifting the unit sounded best perhaps, but perhaps on mine NOT LOL

Well, sometimes I am not too smart.
HEY! I heard that! What du ya mean most the time LOL

Nothing wrong with my compressor after all, I forgot you have to hold the Check Button and press the increase or decrease at same time DUH.
I was only pressing increase!

Everything seems fine and I like the Taxi tire so far, went for about 150-200 miles of riding today on it.
I've never been so good on the twisties anyway but I found today I was hitting some harder and better than I normally have been when running o the E3 before.
Well that is when I was not stuck behind slow motor home going out and a car doing 35-40mph in a 55mph, and then they would slow for the turns also LOL
I found the Taxi holds a turn and leans well even at speeds of 25mph or so, even though I planned to hit the turns around 45mph or better.

So far I think the lower RPMs are great too.

Only checked my mileage for 75.8 miles gas to gas, but 1.88gal is 40.2mpg!
Same riding in past has never been better than 37.8mpg so if I am lucky I got a 3mpg increase. Too soon and too little riding to really tell yet.
 

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It aint rocket science
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5 pinners get pasted. 6 do not for the driven flange. 88 has a 6 pinner. The Haynes manual is wrong.

JD
 

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Up & over works for some GL1500's but is a struggle for others. The saddlebag frames can get a little bent over time and that makes them a pig to get back in position when you swing everything back down.
 

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kennyd wrote:
Bashful wrote:
Rudy wrote:
I always pull my boxes. I find it much easier with the trailer hitch on.
Goes pretty quickly and I don't have to find anything to tie the boxes up with.
Yah, me too.
Me three. Taking the bags off is very easy after the first time.
+4. I can have both bags off in about 20 minutes.
 

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DriverRider wrote:
5 pinners get pasted. 6 do not for the driven flange. 88 has a 6 pinner. The Haynes manual is wrong.

JD
I don't remember for sure now, but I think I have a 5 pin.
 

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Chromo, how easy was it to align your mufflers once you got the back half of the bike swung back into position? My muffler mounting alignment winds up a little off. I tried raising the back end twice the last few years because I figured I`d done something wrong the first time to make it as difficult as it was but no, it was as big a PIA the second time as the first. I ain`t doing that no more.

plain
 

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Wingnumberone wrote:
Odd - I flip mine and change the rear tire every year, and have never had an issue.:?
Same here. I've only done it once, but it went pretty slick. The only trouble I had was I didn't read the instructions right and pulled out the two bolts I was only supposed to loosen. The right side one was a real pain to align past the compressor hose.
 

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I've done it both ways but find it faster for me to pull the left bag. No risk of breaking a wire with an accidental snage or something that way either. Really didn't save any time for me to tilt up the trunk and bags. Changing the reare tire on an 1800 is almost a pleasure because it's so easy and quick to do.
 

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plain wrote:
Chromo, how easy was it to align your mufflers once you got the back half of the bike swung back into position? My muffler mounting alignment winds up a little off. I tried raising the back end twice the last few years because I figured I`d done something wrong the first time to make it as difficult as it was but no, it was as big a PIA the second time as the first. I ain`t doing that no more.

plain
The mufflers were the easiest part. Mine lined up fine after I had the rack back in place.
 

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The up & over method is often more bother than it's worth.
 
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