ecu diagnostics 1985 goldwing ltd

2146 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Bagmaster, Aug 17, 2009

hunter27h

Discussion Starter · Jul 6, 2009

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I am looking for assistance or advice on next procedure on this goldwing.

1985 goldwing ltd, fuel injected of course. When it will crank, runs great, bike had been sitting for a while when I bought it from original owners.

Initially I had starting and charging problems, I bought both manuals, the supplement for the ltd, and the 84-87 service manual.

When I started cleaning electrical and reading the manual and threads about the stator connections, I remade those connections, sometimes it would crank, and still no change to charging, as I went further, I removed the tank cover and found the rectifier connections from the stator were not "locked" in and apparently were causing the charging problem, because after cleaning and locking those. The charging problem went away, or at least the voltmeter indication is 13.9 or a little lower after starting. I did a lot of "cleaning" and connector checking for good connections while I had the tank cover off, and still sometimes it would crank, and run at idle, but would slowly idle down and shut off at about 650 rpms. I had found the section on the ecu diagnostic lights, and thought that I had narrowed the issue down to the pbr, pbl sensors, as that was the indicator lights that I was seeing, little did I realize that I could not see the last light as it was behind the ecu bracket arm, and after I removed the ecu partially, the the lights indicated "crank sensor" NS sensor. Followed the recommend procedure in the supplement, found (finally) the connector for the crank sensor, disconnected and tested, contacts were clean, and all of the procedures in the supplement manual were followed, and I found no trouble according to the tests; however, the bike would not start up. It did start later in the day and ran fine for 10 minutes, shut off and would not start giving the same diagnostic lights as before, crank sensor. I am still suspecting power or grounding issues somewhere in the cfi.

I have had the bike in the local shop for all fluid changes, brakes, timing belts, tires, plugs, etc and the mechanic came highly recommended for Honda, and I appreciated his knowledge, but the 85 ltd is apparently a rare animal, even for him.

As the trouble seems to come and go, literally with the weather, any one have any suggestions.

I would greatly appreciated any direction except down....:dude:

Ben

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DaveO430

· #2 · Jul 6, 2009

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The flash code is probably right. The sensor heats up and stops sending a signal and before you can test it cools down enough to show good.

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 8, 2009

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Thanks, wish we had replaced it while changing belts:dude: I now have additional codes #2, 4 cylinder injectors? the two sets of diagnostics are alternating, I am still suspecting a wiring issue, so my plans now are to start checking connectors, I have a can of electronic cleaning spray, dielectric paste, and pipe cleaners, in the hopes that I will find a bad connector, any suggestions?

Something else that I have noticed, before I started the cleaning process, the diagnostic lights would change each time I switched off and the on and cranked, if I changed the postion of the handle bars, so I think that I am chasing an electrical problem. Found one frame ground so far, on the right side of the frame underneath the handle bar. Anyone have a hint as to where there are others??:dude:

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 13, 2009

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Well another weekend with the 85 ltd, cleaned connectors, soldered the stator connections after removing the old connector, thought sure I had resolved the starting problem as well, cranked the bike, ran like a dream, 13.9 -14.0 volts, after the bike got some temperature on it, and the fan cut on, voltage dropped to 12.3-4, started putting parts back and my neighbor stopped by to see the bike running. Cranked up ran fine, I shut it down, moved the handle bar and the bike would not start back to the ns sensor diagnostic. I am now looking at the wiring to the ignition switch next, what else is associated with the handle bar, I have eliminated the kill switch, I think..........:dude:

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DaveO430

· #5 · Jul 13, 2009

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You need to pull the false tank and maybe split the wiring harness cover where it flexes by the steering stem to look for a possible partially broken wire.

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jul 19, 2009

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It did start later in the day and ran fine for 10 minutes, shut off and would not start giving the same diagnostic lights as before, crank sensor. I am still suspecting power or grounding issues somewhere in the cfi.

I already had the tank cover off, did a fairly thorough check of the wiring around the fork area, started paying closer attention to the reading on the voltmeter, and after reading some of the other posts concerning voltage regulator rectifiers, I decided to spend some of the grandkids meager inheiritance and buy one from rick denison, and installed it and tested it (using the old connectors, cleaned up of course, didn't want to cut the new connector until I knew it was good, I have since cut and soldered)found that the idle voltage went from 13.8 to 14.4. the accessory voltage to 12.6, about the same as the battery, switch fully on to 11.7 to 12.6, and as long as it is in this range, the engine will start, and I have still found that when the front is turned hard to the right, thevoltage in the start position of the ignition switch is higher that when turned hard to the left, when switching off and back on, and logically it should be something in the wiring, but I haven't found it.

Continuing the connector cleaning and testing, I pulled the starter switchsolenidand fuses to clean those connectors again, and this time, after knowing what the 30 amp fuses are supposed to look like, I found one of the "fuses" to be a very good imitation of the real fuse, but made of a piece of Barqs root beer can, I could read the "barqs" on the back of the fuse.:dude:

I have spent so much time cleaning and checking I am ready to ride , so I am going to start putting pieces back together, before I have to replace the starter from so much starting, but at least it started 8-10 times to day, at various times throughout the day, and it even rained today!:dude:The problem may not be fixed, but I know of a bunch of stuff that it ain't so I am betting on the vr, and the Barqs, at least for today.

Thanks for the help!

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 11, 2009

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Anybody know of the interchange for the 1985 ltd ecu? Is the 86 sei the same ecu, even though the numbers are different?

I am only thinking of spare parts at this point for the 85 ltd

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hunter27h

Discussion Starter · #8 · Aug 17, 2009

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Well. I found the ecu answer by plugging it in and the 86 sei worked, as did the crank angle sensor that I replaced. It was from the 86 sei as well, so it appears so far that the ecu was giving the correct fault codes.

Thanks to Houstoncyclesalvage.net for the reasonably priced parts. Great folks, Tigger and big Jim.

The 100 miles that I have ridden so far is at 39.6 miles per gallon

Thanks for all of the suggestions and help that I received!
:dude:
:dude::dude::dude:

Ben

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Bagmaster

· #9 · Aug 17, 2009

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Hey Hunter, I know where you can buy another 1200 as a parts bike, it's an 85? LTD over in Auburn, Ga.

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