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I already spent a hundred bucks on an 'alleged' diagnostic, at the dealer no less:X. i am willing to pay for accuracy, who do you trust? Can anyone recommend a KNOWN auto/bike electric guy/girl in or very near philadelphia(i've got to be able to get home).



Or , at least recommend some stepbystep (video??) that i can do it myself.



The catch 22 is that i either buy the equipment(no idea what i'll need or what cost), learn as i go, and hope i don't miss something that only experience would likely see, OR take it to somebody that 'electric is what they DO' and be prepared to re-purchase the bike on one job:shock:.



anybody out there(in here) been here? how didYOU solve it and get back on your iron?



For the record I have a recent post here already on what the problem or symptoms are.
 

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The beauty of the older Wings is that they are so simple. No computers, no TPS, no O2 sensors, no pollution stuff. Nothing.
If you are going to ride an older machine then you must be able to service it yourself. If you are on the road somewhere and it breaks down, good luck finding parts or service. You need to be self sufficient.
Get a digital voltmeter (DVM). Then re-draw the electrical diagram from the manual on a plain sheet of paper so that it makes sense. I did that 30 years ago with my Wing and always keep it in the bike. Then go through old posts on this forum.
 

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IMHO nothing on an older wing(1000's- 1100's)warrants much more of an electronic tester than a cheap voltohmnmeter from HF (3 to 10 bucks) and a lighted 12 volt testprobe+
The "what happened" is easier answered with a few clues. Good clues on the starter problem, points to starter failure when warmed up, it drags or draws too much current from the battery robbing the ignition of the voltage it needs to create spark. A common trouble spot when you lose all the power at once and then it comes back is the main or dogbone fuse cracked or broken.(clue) It backfired and quit! No power butafter cooling down for thirty min. ran ok-- NO POWER? anywhere? tail lights, head light, horn?? or was it just barely running and would not rev up??? Dead battery? clogged fuel filter?? out of gas?

Not to be a [email protected]&# a$$ but you do need to know the different parts on your machine and have some idea how they function if you are going to ride one of the older bikes either fromnecessity or just the pleasure of the ride and there is a ton of info here just for the taking or the asking.:waving:Keno
 

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cyclewizard wrote:
The tool that I have for trouble shooting electronics is 500.00, I highly doubt you would want to purchase one.
http://www.klsupply.com/TUNINGDIAGNOSTIC/IGNITIONMATE/tabid/152/Default.aspx

I would buy a book and start there first.
Interesting, but i don't know enough to give the thing a workout and get my monies worth ot of it, thanks though, something like this i would look around for one or some to make a co-op purchase with me:waving:.
 

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Gofastandfalldown wrote:
The beauty of the older Wings is that they are so simple. No computers, no TPS, no O2 sensors, no pollution stuff. Nothing.
If you are going to ride an older machine then you must be able to service it yourself. If you are on the road somewhere and it breaks down, good luck finding parts or service. You need to be self sufficient.
Get a digital voltmeter (DVM). Then re-draw the electrical diagram from the manual on a plain sheet of paper so that it makes sense. I did that 30 years ago with my Wing and always keep it in the bike. Then go through old posts on this forum.
I am right in step with your view:cool:. I seem to be a little dense on picking up the electrical stuff though:(. I know i will get it EVENTUALLY, but i want to enjoy the bike and get to know it THIS Year:cheeky1:.
 

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Keno wrote:
IMHO nothing on an older wing(1000's- 1100's)warrants much more of an electronic tester than a cheap voltohmnmeter from HF (3 to 10 bucks) and a lighted 12 volt testprobe+

The "what happened" is easier answered with a few clues. Good clues on the starter problem, points to starter failure when warmed up, it drags or draws too much current from the battery robbing the ignition of the voltage it needs to create spark. A common trouble spot when you lose all the power at once and then it comes back is the main or dogbone fuse cracked or broken.(clue) It backfired and quit! No power butafter cooling down for thirty min. ran ok-- NO POWER? anywhere? tail lights, head light, horn?? or was it just barely running and would not rev up??? Dead battery? clogged fuel filter?? out of gas?

Not to be a [email protected]&# a$$ but you do need to know the different parts on your machine and have some idea how they function if you are going to ride one of the older bikes either fromnecessity or just the pleasure of the ride and there is a ton of info here just for the taking or the asking.:waving:Keno
I agree with you on the "good clues" point. I try to write what i think will shine a light without being ttooo wordy though. I've always been around 'motorheads' but as for me!?? ask about welding and truck driving, maybe even home re-habing and we'll go on for hours, but vehicle electric, i'm working on it:D. One thing I realize i did not add, the bike dropped all IGNITION , i still had lights and horn etc, but starter would not turn the motor, neutral light just went dim each time i pressed the switch.:?
 

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Where's your post on what is wrong with it...
You can diagnose it yourself... maybe even fix it.
I'm a firm believer in diligence.


I found your post... How did it run before you started working on it? Anything change? When exactly? Do you have a VOM (a test meter) Need a VOM.
Need to know that each and every electrical connection associated with starting, charging and ignition is clean and conducting properly. Do you have a manual? Easier to see it on paper in front of you when tracing wires than looking for it here. Pay particular attention to grounds and their conduction. Once you know that ALL the connections are good, break it down to systems. Starting, Charging and Ignition. Break those down to components. Test each then move on. Many times you'll find that 'all this troublebecause ofthis damn thing' is a simple picture after all. Getting there takes a leap of faith (anda plan) when experience is not driving the hands.
Basics first though: Does your bike have the stock ignition or aftermarket electronic? Coils in good shape? Replaced the belts, right... Carbs good? Choke isn't stuck on is it? Etc. etc..

Diligence man, that's the key....
 

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Astor123 wrote:
Gots to agree with GoFast&splat.

Just a little analogy from a different viewpoint:

If you buy a German Shepherd pup and your intentions were security and he/she grows up and it's confused of your needs and goes after everything that moves when you do the walk; and then you slap him/her because you only wanted security and not a jerking leash machine; where do you think you is?

I do get banned form forums due to this but I will be cordial. If you can't fix it - don't get on it! Go spend $25K on a new one with a free oil change for next 5 years and you be set. GL1000 is a convenient bike to ride and fix but it is a bitch at the dealer service joint. They know just about as much as you do.

So for starters, what's going on with it. Go get a 10 & 12 mm wrench before you post.
:cheeky1::cheeky1::cheeky1:you're a little late cowboy, i am in this to git this, i jist am buildin up a slow head of steam as i git rollin:cooldevil:. I am NOT twenty years young and likely to wrestle this motor out by hand, lose all kinds of sleep, and throw it back in a weekend, which i have done with my good ole cb750. I bought this bike for a purpose, I LIKE what itIS/CAN BE,I'll get it where i NEED it to be, thank you for the reality check, I am on point and on schedule:action:, and like i said, you're a LITTLE late:p.
 

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I had a similar problem on my rehab GL1000 a month ago as I neared finished. . The short of it ha ha is that The start button wire as it leaves the housing between the handle bar and the on Off /throttle housing had warn a bare spot through and when I would start it would ground to the bars and pull down the battery and blow the fuse. I also after fixing that found a coil wire pinched behind the coil against the frame, bike then started but was getting wires hot when I found that.. A cheap test light attached to ground on the battery then touch the top of the start solenoid back of battery the wire lug going to starter, when you push start it should light up bright. mine was always dim as all the gauge lights on a fresh charged battery the headlight is supposed to cancel when you start and also wouldn't turn over. then I found the wire on the handlebar.
 

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CaptainMidnight85 wrote:
Where's your post on what is wrong with it...
You can diagnose it yourself... maybe even fix it.
I'm a firm believer in diligence.


I found your post... How did it run before you started working on it? Anything change? When exactly? Do you have a VOM (a test meter) Need a VOM.
Need to know that each and every electrical connection associated with starting, charging and ignition is clean and conducting properly. Do you have a manual? Easier to see it on paper in front of you when tracing wires than looking for it here. Pay particular attention to grounds and their conduction. Once you know that ALL the connections are good, break it down to systems. Starting, Charging and Ignition. Break those down to components. Test each then move on. Many times you'll find that 'all this troublebecause ofthis damn thing' is a simple picture after all. Getting there takes a leap of faith (anda plan) when experience is not driving the hands.
Basics first though: Does your bike have the stock ignition or aftermarket electronic? Coils in good shape? Replaced the belts, right... Carbs good? Choke isn't stuck on is it? Etc. etc..

Diligence man, that's the key....
Sorry guy, i just erased a pretty thorough response:(, so here comes the abbreviated version:D. bikes runs, just has start issue. i have bought both a multimeter and elec. tester(both digital). some tests need bike switch on, some need batt. connected, some need bike running, etc., too many variations, so i am hoping to find a good SHORT;) post to download and take to the bike, or find a tutor to walk me through the tests. already did a very thorough cleaning of every contact i could find from rear forward to the fairing (lot of wires in there:shock:) so that will be a separate project. i figured i would want to go through the bike system by system anyway, i just hoped i would get a bit more use out it than i have.:(



I am not downing the PO though, he had a garage and DEFINATELY worked to keep it up, I just need to find and nail the reason why his ole lady made him give it up and get a new one:D. anyways, thanks fo checking out my post and responding, HAPPY TRAILS:waving:, david
 
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