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I have a mystery electrical problem on a 82 Aspencade that I'm working on for a friend.

The battery that was on his bike, if left connected, would drain within a day. So I first thought it was a drain or short in the system. I disconnected the battery, and connected an ohm meter to the positive and negative battery leads, thinking that if there was no problem, there would be infinite resistance, and with the key off, the needle pointed to 12000. I unplugged everything, removed the fairing, disconnected everything under the steering weight, disconnected all the fuses, everything but the stuff under the pod, and nothing changed. So then I thought, hmm, I'll check in on my own 80 Standard. The resistance was about the same.

Okay, then it's just a bad battery... Partly... I swapped out the battery with the one from my wing last Thursday, and it stayed strong, at least I thought. I moved onto another problem, trying to see if I could figure out the radio/clock problem. I didn't start it up for a couple days, but each time I turned on the ignition switch, the lights lit up brightly, so it didn't look like there was a problem. Then I was out of town for a couple days, and when I went out to my shop this morning, the battery was completely dead, and this is the good battery that I'm been using on my wing with no problems.

And one more weird thing I just noticed. When I hooked up the ohm meter to the positive lead and ground to verify my reading, it first jumped to 0 ohms, then went to 12k.
 

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Instead of using an ohmmeter check the current draw with the ignition switch off by using the ammeter function. Start with a well charged battery.

Disconnect the battery's negative post and put the ammeter on the 10A scale, connect the leads, one to the battery negative post and the other to the battery negative cable and see what the current reading is. You'll probably have to reduce the amp scale on your meter but it's safest to start with the 10A range to protect the meter.

You shouldn't see more than a few milliamps of current flow with the switch off. Maybe 20-50ma maximum. If there's more than that start pulling fuses one at a time until you discover which circuit is drawing the excess power.
 

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Exavid has the right idea. Sometimes these kind of problems can be hard to find. Not a bike but my old pickup truck has this problem. Left connected the battery would be dead within a week. I connected the ammeter in series with the negative terminal and got a quick surge and then almost nothing. I spent hours poking and wiggling wires and cables. Actually gave up and let it win. I just disconnect the battery terminal when I park it. I suspect a bad leakage in the brake light switch but......:?

I hope you find yours....
 

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I haven't found any homebrew wiring, but there have been a few wires worn down to the core. So far none of these have been it. I'll be trying out what exavid said tomorrow.
 

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Okay! I think I've found it! Hooked up the amp meter, and it pegged, so I started unplugging connectors in the faring, and it went back to zero when I unpluggeda green connector with black, red, and green wires. I think this is one going to the tuner, which makes sence since the tuner isn't working properly and the display doesn't work at all. With this connector unplugged, I get no reading on any amp meter setting, so hopefully I've found my gremlin.
 

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Sounds like it - Good work! If the radio isn't working properly, it would be a good suspect....

After all, if you found Colonel Mustard, in the library, with a candlestick... Hmmm...
 
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