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So, some time ago, I posted about a bug with my aftermarket stereo cutting out and reseting, the problem seemed to only happen when it was cold. Because of having too many other projects, I still haven't had a chance to deal with it so I've just been using my ipod with ear buds. Well, guess what, it was bloody cold today. This is the coldest I've riden this bike in yet. Well tonite on my way to class, in this lovely weather, I looked down at my dash for a speed check, all was well, then the dash flickered. I thought it was odd but kept on. A few minutes later it did it again, then again and again, it must have flickered 20 times in the 10 mile ride to the school. It's like it's reseting just like the stereo was. It blinks out, turns on with everything showing (like it looks when you first turn the key on) and then normals out until it does it again.

Is it possible that this is caused by the same thing screwing up my stereo. I'm loosing my marbles, and there weren't that many to begin with :headbanger:. Any ideas? Please!?!
 

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...clean all the fuses and the terminals they set in.
 

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Sounds like a plug is loose. Was there any work down in that area recently? Air filter etc.?
 

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dontcha just love those kinda problems they really really suck i'd rather drag my testicals over shaved glass but i deal with electrial problems almost every day and i still say shaved glass sounds a heck of a lot better
 

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I'm with ya 100% peterbuilt.

There hasn't been any work done near the fuse block in a while, the only work that's been done near the cluster was when I pulled the stereo about a month or so ago to check the connection on that, and then I pulled the headlight around the same time to do my side marker bulbs. I haven't pulled the fuses and cleaned them yet, but this is a very new problem, as in it's never done this until tonite, doesn't mean I won't try it, just means I don't see that being the problem. Heck, at this point I'd do theglass idea if I thought it would help.
 

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Cold= shrikage (OK dirty minds go ahead), connectors included, you need to try wiggling wires and connectors especially those going into the fairing until you can repeat the problem then you can narrow it down.
 

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I tryed working the wires like that on the stereo and didn't come up with anything, I'll have to start it all over again for the cluster I guess.
 

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yup i agree the o'l wiggle test is what i'd start with check all ground connections, check all plug in's tryin to find a gremlin like that aint gonna be simple to find but im sure when you find the problem it will be a simple repair
 

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Just a thought by chance are there any in line fuse holders on your bike if so the spring inside the fuse will shrink if it gets cold causing a lose connection just my 2 cents. Hal
 

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peterbilt wrote:
dontcha just love those kinda problems they really really suck i'd rather drag my testicals over shaved glass
Man..... I sure hope your around when I have electrical problems............:shock::shock:

I don't think I could endure the pain......... :ROFL::ROFL:
 

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Okay I just have to ask how cold is cold for you
wilf
















/
 

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Okay I just have to ask how cold is cold for you
See, you're not supposed to call me on that :sadguy:. It's about 49 out there right now :cheesygrin:. I know I know, I'm a sissy. There stereo started doin' it when it got below 70 though.

But hey, we have a new developement. So I posted this originally when I got to class (yeah, I probably should have been paying attention to the teacher instead, I know), but the bike sat in the parking lot the couple hours I was in class. When I got out I fired her up and all was well. I let it idle and warm up while I suited up my many layers (I really am a sissy) and the cluster never glitched. I got on the bike and reved it, bam, blinked and went totally out. Let it come back down to idle, all was well. Reved it, blank. I played with it like that for a few minutes. Every time it passed 2000rpm it droped out, exactly 2000 rpm. The whole ride home was with a blank cluster, lights, turn indicators, nuetral light, all still good, just no LCD display. Every time I pulled the clutch in and let the RPM's drop, regardless of speed or bumps in the road, the cluster was working perfectly, every time I brought the engine up to speed it cut out.

But wait, there's more. When I got off the freeway I pulled up to the light and stopped, cluster came back as expected, but when I pulled off from the light it didn't cut out until almost half a mile later, then it went back to the original random reseting it was doing on my way to class and didn't go blank again the whole rest of the trip.
 

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...that sounds like a ground. Could be +V, but sounds like a bad ground somewhere.
 

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My money is on the voltage regulator. I had the exact same problems you described about revving the engine and the display going crazy. Eventually the regulator went out completely and I replaced it with a new OEM unit. Magically all my gremlins went away and everything has worked perfect since. I think that the LTD is very sensitive to voltage fluctuations and the regulator was the culprit. Hope this helps!
 

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blackknytecnc wrote:
...The whole ride home was with a blank cluster, lights, turn indicators, nuetral light, all still good, just no LCD display...
To me this seems as it may all be related to the radio fitment. The LCD display and the neutral lights both get power from the same fuse (#4 10 AMP). Check the connectors above the headlight and behind the windshield retainer-remove it. Specifically check C-19 ( I will include picture below). It is a black 13 pin connector. I would do this with the radio installed to see if you can find any issues. My guess is either the connector is loose or a wire is chafing, grounding, or just being pulled too tight...
 

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My money is on the voltage regulator.
Are you talking about the regulator for the instruments or the regulator for the bike? That seems like itwould make sense if you're talking aboutthe regulator for the bike because the guy at the stereo shop said those stereo's don't take kindly to voltage changes.

I'll be tearing into it this weekend. A stereo I can live without, gauges are a little more important. I'll trace all the wires and grounds as far back as I have to. I may even get someweather-pac connecters and replace all thefactory pin connectors, Iguess I'll just have to see how ugly it looks when it's allapart... again.
 

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Voltage regulator for the bike. The only good one to replace the original with in my opinion is this unit from regulatorrectifier.com here....LTD Regulator
I inadvertently bought a cheap Chinese unit from a company from Calif. that lasted around 200 miles and almost caught fire. I am of the opinion that the LTD's which have a more robust stator tend to fry most other brands of regulators like mine did. Anyhow this unit has been perfect for over 1000 miles so far.

I also soldered an extension to the original harness and mounted the regulator under the front forks to get the excess heat generated out of the false tank compartment. Since I have switched to this improved design from Shindengen I have noticed that the regulator does not get nearly as hot as the old OEM unit. I have included a pic.

If you do decide to replace the regulator, be sure to hard wire all of the connections to eliminate the easily melted connector blocks. This is covered elsewhere on this site multiple times.

I'm not sure if this the source of your problems, but I did have the same exact symptoms as you and it did cure mine. Hope this helps!
 

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I'm unclear. Is there actually a reset happening? Losing radio presets, clock clearingand such?
 

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I agree about the regulator. Is there a way you can hook up a digital volt meter and check the voltages through different rpms? I would also try removing the stereo and see if the problem still persists with the dash.
 

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When the radio resets it just shuts off, it doesn't lose any presets or anything. I was told this is because the main power comes throught the constant, which I have hard wired to the battery,so the problem is just in the switched power.

I haven't tryed a digital volt meter yet, but I have an aftermarket volt meter on it that never shows any changes when these problems occur, but that may not mean anything. The stereo is currently disconnected, has been since the problem got so bad it was basically unusable.

It did it again thismorning, the cluster I mean, randomly resetting. The sun was out so it was a little warmer today. It only did it for about half the trip then it normalized. That seemed to happen about the same time the engine hit full temp. That further indicates, at least to me, that this is definately temperature related. I get out of class in a couple hours, the bike will have been sitting outside for about 4 hours by that time. If my theory holds true, when I fire it up the cluster should be going crazy, but it should get progressively better as I get closer to home.

Is there a specific test I can perform for the regulator or should I just balls it and replace it?
 
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