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I started check all this after I had V's at the ignition switch connection bl/rd but no headlight when I jumped the bl/rd or hooked up the real ignition switch and turn the key to on..

Battery at 14.5 V's after all night charge, main fuse is new and good.Checked all connections at battery, all fuses good, main ground good, the the wires coming off the solenoid are good, pulled out the big bunch of wires at the steering neck and all the plugs look good, wires all out of the headlight bucket and they look good.

So I jumped with a short copper wire at the main ignition connector (the one that fits into the key assembly) plug(blk/rd), why no juice at the headlight or oil light?? But when I connect by meter to the bl/rd cockets at the main ignition connector I get 14.46 so there is V's at the connector. But no V's at the headlight plug when I plug in the meter into the headlight plug, with the jumper at the main connector, bk/rd. I am stumped..j

Of course also no oil light which I did see a couple of times while turn the key while the ignition assembly was together a day or two ago

Where should I look next? What tests can I do???


With the black lead from the meter attached to the neg battery post..and the red lead attached to the red wire socket from the back side on the ignition connector I get 14+ v's as soon as I put the jumper the front side (a "U" shape piece of stripped copper wire) the V's disappear from my meter....pull the jumper off and V's appear again??...with the red lead still stuck on the red wire side and the black to the nege battery terminal.

jumper in

no jumper connection


Nothing but the jumper changed..

I am crazy or doing something wrong??? It's like putting the jumper on kills the circuit?
 

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Hey RB,
Could it be the same thing I just went through? My headlight would not come on, however, if I touched the starter button after starting, hdlight would come on. That went on for awhile, then no hdlight no matter. I took apart the starter button and shorted out the wires for the hdlight and it came on. I cleaned the button contacts but had no luck and had to add an extra switch for headlight.
 

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But I have no oil light no horn etc, no starter with the bl/rd jumped at the ignition connector..but thanks for the thought..
 

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Do you have voltage & good wiring on your solonoid? There should be power on one, Power switched with the start button on another etc. If there is a problem there, it might affect the wiring at the ignition.

With your multi meter, Check both sides of every fuse to confirm that power flows through it or that power is delivered to that fuse while the ignition is tripped to the on circut.
 

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Have you checked the battery ground connection on the engine?
What is happening could be the ground connection is very weak and when any load is applied as in jumpering the wires or turning on the switch the connection is totally lost. Do a voltage drop test. Connect the meter red to the engine or frame and the black to the battery negative post and jumper the red and black wires at the ignition switch, if the meter shows voltage you know the ground connection is bad.
 

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Thats a very good point! you can use a battery cable for boosting to bridge a temporary ground to test this as well.
 

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Is this the 1976 "barn find" you mention in your signature line? Has it ever worked since you got it or is this a new problem? According to the Honda shop manual, there is no blk/rd wire at the ignition switch. I'm wondering if the p.o. did some modifications.
 

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I will try the test grounding of the battery idea to see what happens..note when I check the main ground at the steer stem/coils..it shows full voltage 14.5 same as at the battery, of course just my meter no load. Note the battery will turn over the starter if I jump from the positive to the starter stud, with a heavy cable. If that works coudl it still be a bad ground connection?

I have no power to any of the main box fuses..with the bl and red ignition wires jumped simulating the key being on, as when they are jumped the V's disappear...but if I hook my meter to the bl and red wires it shows 14.5 V's with no jumper in place other than the meter.

The bl/rd is not a wire but jumping between the bl and rd wires at the ignition connector

There is no power to anything that I can tell..but when I check with a meter it shows voltage at various points..with the neg meter lead hooked to the neg battery post and the red probing at the main fuse there is power... on both sides, power at the solenoid's hot post, at the hot lead in the ignition connector(red wire). It's like I can get power up to the ignition connector but not past it..

I did get the oil light to come on a few times while I was testing the ignition switch base itself. I had it apart to clean the contacts when plugged in by itself the bottom only and turn my hand the oil light did come a few times but now nothing.

I have the main wiring harness connector point open and spread out and all the connectors look good no PO wire tampering evident. There was one hot spot(discolored plastic shield) on the black wire coming from the starter switch but I pulled it apart and the bullet connector is good as are the wire connections to the bullet sides.



Yes it's the barn find and it's never run not that I have tried to really start it yet the starter will turn it over..
 

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The starter turning it over proves the ground to the engine at least, might not be to the frame though if the engine mounts are corroded. check the main fuse and other connections too, a weak connection on the hot side can cause the same symptoms you described.
 

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Try a wire (preferably with a fuse inline) from the battery positive terminal to the black wire at the ignition switch. If that works, check for corrosion at the connection by the battery.
 

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I will try both ideas when the sun comes up the bike outside for now.. all the stuff in your picture Ron is new or cleaned up on my bike..new main fuse, new connector for the red and rd/wh wires, all the connection points sanded to shiny and reconnected, the wires are original but seem solid.

SO I will make a temporary ground to frame cable..I have a spare starter to battery neg cable that should work for that.

If that doesn't help I'll rig up a direct link from the pos battery to the black wire at the ignition and see what that does..I think I have a spare fuse holder jsut have to find it..:) and I have plenty of wire..
 

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OK I connected a direct line from pos post battery to the black wire in the ignition connector and I got a neutral light and the oil light nice and bright.

Also Checked the fuses with this line in place no V's on the main fuse box except the second fuse down which shows 12/11 V's ?

I didn't do the test ground from the battery as the above seemed to ID the problem.

So do I have a weak connection someplace between the positive battery post and the red wire connector at the the ignition???? (I say weak as I still get a 12+ V reading on my meter at the ignition connector bl and red wires connected by the meter. Just nothign when I use a jumper at that point.) Am I thinking about this correctly????

So next step??




PS..I put a jumper on the headlight socket to see if that would give me V's at the fuse box..it burned the fuse in my temporary jumper wire..should it have done that..I used a heavy gauge solid copper wire and just stuck it in the green wire socket and the blue wire socket to "simulate" the headlight..I guess I could get the headlight and plug it in and see if it lights up or blows the fuse I do have it?? good idea or not???
 

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DON'T use a wire to simulate a bulb, but I guess you figured that out. When you checked the power at the fuses, did you measure across the fuse? Need black lead on negative of battery and probe the fuses with the red lead. If your headlight jumper blew a fuse, there is power to the headlight and the topmost fuse should have power on it.

Next thing I would try is to isolate where (from battery + to ignition switch) the problem is. Disconnect the 2 wire connector by the battery, connect the jumper at the ignition switch (red to black) and hook your jumper from battery + to the red wire on the main harness at the 2 pin connector. If you have your lights from there, the problem lies between the battery and here.


A few things that concern me in your pic.

1. crimped connectors on your MAIN power will cause problems later. Soldered connections are much better.

2. I can't see whats under the tape and that is always a concern to me.

3. Positive voltage is very close to grounded frame members, be careful.

4. This solenoid connection looks suspect from the pic. May be better if the fuse wire was on top of the battery cable.
 

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roncar wrote:
DON'T use a wire to simulate a bulb, but I guess you figured that out. When you checked the power at the fuses, did you measure across the fuse? Need black lead on negative of battery and probe the fuses with the red lead. If your headlight jumper blew a fuse, there is power to the headlight and the topmost fuse should have power on it.

Next thing I would try is to isolate where (from battery + to ignition switch) the problem is. Disconnect the 2 wire connector by the battery, connect the jumper at the ignition switch (red to black) and hook your jumper from battery + to the red wire on the main harness at the 2 pin connector. If you have your lights from there, the problem lies between the battery and here.


A few things that concern me in your pic.

1. crimped connectors on your MAIN power will cause problems later. Soldered connections are much better.

2. I can't see whats under the tape and that is always a concern to me.

3. Positive voltage is very close to grounded frame members, be careful.

4. This solenoid connection looks suspect from the pic. May be better if the fuse wire was on top of the battery cable.
Not trying to steal thread, however, I am curious. I have #3 problem. I have not put plastic cover back on yet. Is there anyother way I can insulate the solenoid other than the plastic cover?
 

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OK.you are right about the crimps, and main battery connects the cable is too big and I will the right size cable and connectors.

Under the tape are cracks or nicks in the wire covers..just tape so they don't short against anything.

I agree the solenoid is too close to the frame and have a rubber piece to go in there for now I need a new cover for the solenoid..for now I put a piece of rubber on both sides to keep it off the frame an d battery box.

Now as to what I found..you won't believe this..I started poking around with my long jumper wire. Started at the battery post and worked my way out..the problem luckily for me was at the main fuse connection on the solenoid side. There is/was a lock washer, a flat washer and the eyelet on the wire..they were put on flat washer, eyelet, lock washer..well the flat washer was the problem not conducting. So I clean it off on a wire wheel and reinstalled but change the order to..eyelet on fuse end, flat washer lock washer and put the screw in..I now have a oil and neutral light when I jump the bl and rd socket at the ignition connector.

BUT!!!! ##[email protected]@##!!!! Still no headlight when I jump the bl and rd sockets. The bulb is good I did direct wire it just for a second while it was plugged into the light plug..so the plug supplies the ground and my long jumper wire the power..both high and low beam work...I didn't burn anything out..again I just touch the tabs for less than a second. So why no headlight??? when I jump the ignition socket???


Also when I had the jumper on socket still no power to the fuses except number 2..but I was just touching both sides and the fuse/holder with my probes...I guess not the right way to do it I'll follow the directions above and try it again. And report back.

So now where do I start probing to find the headlight problem. I know the ground is good, and the switch for low and high works... if I plug in my meter to the headlight socket(1st one then the other) and move the switch on the clutch lever I get power readings..not 10V's but 5 or 6 on the high and low beam plugs..
 

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OOPS forgot to ask..when checking the fuses per the instructions above(probe on neg battery and red to fuse)..does the jumper at the ignition have to in?? IE stimulating the key being on??

One other question off topic...while I am here..the bike is labeled as a 75 10/75 to be exact but it is/was sulfur yellow..I have repainted it but the color was defiantly sulfur yellow and original..I sanded down and saw no other color..can that be or did someone switch the plastics before I got it???
 

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Ok I checked the fuses..jumper on ignition sockets at the ignition connector..all the fuses showed 10.35 V's except the middle one which only showed .5 or .6 V's..

So now what??
 

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I would put a temp ground onto the fuse block just in case. Too much grounding is a good thing as long as it does not run into live.

Dont sweat your headlight until your bike starts & runs off the key.

Does your wing have the headlight option that shuts off the headlight during cranking? If it does, you might have a sticky start switch.

Hope Im helping.
 

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Yes ignition switch has to be on to get power at those fuses.

With a build date of 10/75, I would suspect it is a 76 model. Frame no. GL1-1xxxxx = 75, GL1-2xxxxxx = 76. After 30+ years side panels and other painted bits could have been previously swapped, if it is indeed a 75.

for your low voltage, try bypassing the RLU. Sounds like it may be bad.
 

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Well, the frame number is GL1-201.... and says model 1976 on the plate.

Anyway back to the electrical stuff.

I thought all GL's had the headlight shut off as part of the start switch..I did clean mine out a bit and it seems to work smoothly although I am not using it for all this testing.

So how do I bypass the RLU?
 
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