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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Howdy folks, and my question is concerning the switch over from points to dyna electronic... I cant find the original ballast resistor ? Following the service manual, it should be between the Bk wire andBk/Br wire.. These were disconnected. One female one male, and both show 12vswiched? Should the dyna res. go between the two? Is it really needed ? The wires to the coils follow the diagram color code, but I am stalled with this ballast resistor...help ! :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Thanks RC but, for whatever reason I can't log on...Maybe someone will come along that would know.. :)
 

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You do need a ballast resistor, but not the original one. Dynatek provides one of a different value in the kit. Download the installation sheet from Dynatek's web site and it should show the correct value, then pick one up at the local auto parts store. Sorry I don't remember the wire colors etc..

Q
 

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I picked up a 1.4 ohm resistor at NAPA, and it has been working great.. However, I have learned that Dynatek calls for a 1.5 ohm resistor. I would suggest getting 1.5 or if you cannot find that one.. go up slightly 1.6 to 1.8

The factory is www.dynaonline.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Thanks, but I do have the resistor It came with the ignition i'm just not sure which wires to install it too...The manual and the instruction sheet are a little vague in that, there referance is to replace the old one with the new one? well.. LOL There was not an old one to be found... and was running without one.. ???
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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That is correct. black/brown to black. However if those two wires were hanging loose then the PO has wired something different somewhere. The bike won't run with the ballist resistor disconnected if the wiring is normal. It will start but not run after the start button is released. If you have the original coils you will need a 1.5 ohm resistor. If your coils have been replaced with Dyna or Accel then you can run without the resistor. No resistor with the original coils will work but will shorten the life of the coils and the two wires, blk/brnto blk, have to be jumpered together.

I am running Dyna ignitionand Accel coils with a 1.5 ohm resistor just to be safer. I can't tell any difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Thanks Tom,,, The Bk/w wire that feeds the coils has been run through the kill switch...so would I want the resister spliced into that feed wire? It reads 12v (actually 9) and is split from the harness to make a two wire out,, one per coil... and maybe forget the Bk and Bk/br wire?
 

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Tnmtnboy wrote:
Thanks RC but, for whatever reason I can't log on...Maybe someone will come along that would know.. :)
you will probably need to join, it is free, we got spammed a couple of years ago.
 

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No! The blk/w is on theother side of the kill switch. It has to be connected to the blk/brn side or the kill switch won't kill the engine when needed. When the switch is in the run position those two wires areswitched together. The blk/w feeds both primary windings of the coils. The blk wireto the ballist resistor is connected between the ignition switch and start button. When the start button is pressed the ballist is removed from the circuit. Take an ohm reading between the blk/brn and the blk resistorwires and see if there is a direct short or a low resistance as in 1 to 3 ohms. If the bike was running without the resistor then that is a probability. There has to be something there allowing power to the coils with the resistor out. I have a feeling something has been rewired at on time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Ok, with the points disconnected (wires) She reads ,,,,


Bk to Bk/Br 9.2k (run pos) & Bk to Bk/Br 9.2k (kill pos)
Bk to Bk/W .9 ohm's " & Bk to Bk/W open "
Bk/Br to Bk/W open " & Bk/Br to Bk/W open "

and 12v on both BK and Bk/Br...
 

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Need some time to analyze this. Couple of questions first.Was the key in the off position for the resistance readings?Is the clutch switch still working or is it hard wired. Is the xmission in neutral or in gear? Does your neutral light work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
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The key was in the off position for all resistance reading's and the clutch switch is working along with the neutral light. The bike was in 1st gear.
 

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Okay, under those conditions this is what you should be reading. (There is no guarantee that there isn't a mistake in my wiring diagram) You shouldn't be getting the 9.2 k ohms at all and the blk and blk/bn readings seem to be reversed. I will need to confirm (at the bike) on my 76.

Ignition off, without ballist resistor, points disconnected. xmission in gear,clutch lever out.

run position

blk to blk/bn = open

blk to blk/w =open

blk/bn to blk/w = o ohms

kill position

blk to blk/bn =open

blk to blk/w = open

blk/bn to blk/w =open

Still looking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Update :



I bypassed the bk and bk/br at the coil wireharness and picked them up going to the rt. handle bar switches...Here is what I have :: With the Bk and Bk/Br directly shorted together, it runs and switches work.. (12v) at Bk/W. With the Bk connected to the supplied ballast resistor, and Bk/br connected I get a voltage drop of 50% to Bk/W ... She doesn't like that, not even a little!
 

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I looked at the wiring diagram again and tried to redraw a part of the diagram where the balast resistor is, it is maybe a little bit more noticable than in the manual's diagram. Starter switch has one more contactthat goes to headlight but I excepted ittosimplify the things.

I can't figure up how the resistance between Bk and Bk/Br could be 9.2 kilo ohms and between Bk and Bk/W 0.9ohms at the same time (kill switch at"run"). When the kill switch is in run position the Bk/Br and Bk/W should be shorted together so the resistance between Bk and each of them should be the same! Something is definitely wrongwith the wiring....probably the PO hadmessed up. It was easier for him to rewire everything than to change a single resistor.:doh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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I took a 60 mile test run today and with the resistor out and with the Bk. Bk/Br. wired short.. It ran great untill it warm up to midrange, and then anything below 3000 rpm was like a bad phone connection.. (You know, every other word) Down or up hill it was the same .. ?
 

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That sounds like a carb issue. Has this bike been sitting long? I would run some chemicals and pound it for a bit. then do a carb synch and see where you are.It could be electrical but odds are against it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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It had been running a little rough with the point system befor the switch over. I have not done anything with the carbs except run seafoam every other tank.. Besides running rough below 3000 rpms, its developed a high rev at stops and in a few seconds it idles down to 0 if I dont gas it (a little) ?? I have had this bike since oct last year, and will never see the $ again for sure...With this thing it's alway's something!! Drivin me mad I tell you,mad,mad,mad hehahe~~~~~
 

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Sorry, I have been out for the weekend. What you describe with the voltage drop at bk/w is about normal with ballist res. If she doesn't like that then there is still another problem.

Something just occured to me. When I installed my Dyna I found that the points plate didn't ground properly when I tightened the two mounting screws down. Seems the round Dyna plateis a little thinner that the ridge where the screws tighten down. I had to install star lock washers under the screws to get a proper ground. Had the same symptoms you describe with the phone connection.
 
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