[Rudy]

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Anyone know how to adjust the endplay in the clutch and front brake levers on a 89 1500se?

Mine have so much endplay that the switches activate while relaxed unless I manually push the levers back by hand.

Thanks
--
Rudy

 

[GWNorman]

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There is no adjustment as they are hydraulic. Either yours need bleeding (which will take up any slack in the levers) or the lever pivots are worn. Also bear in mind that some aftermarket chrome levers are poor fitting.

 

[Rudy]

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GWNorman wrote:

There
is no adjustment as they are hydraulic. Either yours need
bleeding (which will take up any slack in the levers) or the
lever pivots are worn. Also bear in mind that some aftermarket chrome
levers are poor fitting.

I think we are talking about poor fitting aftermarket levers. The
freeplay is such that the lever is off the hydraulic button all together
and the switches not being compressed.

This bike also has the helmet holder shafts that seem to be too small a
diameter for the inside bearing and it seems that is where the play
exists. I was thinking of trying shimming the bearings with cut up feeler guages just to tighten them up.

When I bought the bike used, it did not have the original levers or bolts.

What aftermarket levers for the 1500 fit well? Or is it the
helmet holder bolts that are the problem? Or both? The
levers I have seem really light weight when I take them out and it
makes me concerned that they might be chromed plastic and therefore weaker than
'real' levers might be. The look an awful lot like the Gold Wing Chrome site's




293-646DC

[sub]or the wide version... it's hard to tell.[/sub]


Should I try to go back to factory levers and bolts? I like the
chrome but not at the expense of functionality and reliability. I
don't need helmet holders on the bars because the helmets hit the bike
paint from there anyway.

Suggestions from all you experienced 1500 tweakers would be appreciated.

--
Rudy

 

[Nitrowing]

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I would suspect the helmet holders. A pair of 'proper' pivots should only cost a few £$ from the local breakers

 

[exavid]

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Rudy, aftermarket levers shouldn't necessarily be bad. I've purchased a couple and they were acceptable. As for the slop, until you get a properly fitting pivot bolt for the lever, it wouldn't matter if they are aftermarket or OEM. The levers are quite light in weight, most of them are made of an aluminum zincalloy. Find a bolt that will fit the lever's bushing properly, make sure that the bushing doesn't ride on the threaded part of the bolt, and I think the problem will be solved.

 

[englishted]

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Rudy, one thing to bear in mind is thatsome aftermarket levers don't come with the bush insert, you have to pop the old one out of your OEM levers (or buy new bushes if they are available) and press them into the aftermarket levers. I've seen a few chrome levers fitted without the bush because the owners didnt know any better and they ended up with sloppy levers.

 

[Rudy]

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Ted andPaul,

The bushings are present but the shafts are really loose so I didn't
know if the bushings had been hogged out or what. Here is the
type if shaft that is the pivot:

I agree with you Paul. I'll go get Honda factory pivot
pins. At least they should be cheap and will tell me if I need
new grips as well.

BTW what did the original grips for the '89 1500 look like? Were
they the old clear plastic covered aluminum types that the older Hondas
had?
Thanks
--
Rudy

 

[Dman]

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HI

I am new at the board and find it very interesting.If only i could type faster.

I also have aftermarket levers and i am in the process of shimming the face of the lever that activates the switches on the right side.I am using fine clear plastic and using goop glue to bond it to the lever.I only have to fine touch my lever to make it activate.If the shim works i will let you guy's know.

Don

 

[BRowan]

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Well done Don. Rudy, all the GL1500s had black painted levers (no plastic coating).