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It's about time for me to change the oil in the '92 GW 1500SE. I would like to start using Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 racing oil.

Is there anyone out there that is using it or has an opinion on it.
Your feedback is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Gary
 

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I have used it, it is a bit over $9.00 a quart at Autozone or Advance Auto , I forget where I found it.

I used to use Amsoil

At 5000 miles Amsoil is dirty and needs to be changed.

At 5000 miles Mobile One is dirty and needs to be changed.

I tried Royal Purple once, you can actually tell things do not shift as well. In all my trying this or that that is the only one I took out of the bike at 1500 miles, I was afraid to leave it in there. (that particular time it was in a Yamaha Venture)

I now use Delo 400 as I have for years before I got into trying all the synthetics.

Delo 400 is dirty and needs to be changed at 5000 miles.

Amsoil, Mobile One, Delo are all good oils, all to me appear to shift well and work well up to 5000 miles.

Delo 400 costs me 11 dollars per gallon at Wally World. Synthetic is $38.54 with tax.

It is your choice, this is just for your information.

I will use the Mobile One 4T this fall on the run to Colorado. Simply because it is supposed to be better oil. As I will have about 7000 miles on that change interval and have no wish to stop and change oil somewhere, I will use it again that particular time.

Is it any better oil? Could be, maybe, could not really prove it to me. But does make one feel better to use the best, or what is said to be the best, thing is is one really better than the other? Hard to tell in the real world.

I liked it, had not issues with it, I think it is good oil and it is an oil formulated specifically for motorcycles under very extreme conditions. So it does protect the engine and it does perform well.

So oil is oil is oil, and simply has to be your choice.

Kit
 

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I like Honda's 10/40 synthetic blend. It seems to me to shift smoother with less clunking. This summer when I plan on long trips, I'm gonna try Honda's full synthetic since I will go longer between oil changes. But, like Kit says, it's mostly a personal preference and largely depends upon how often you change your oil. I think if you change the oil very regularly it doesn't matter much. If you like to get full use out of your oil, the better quality oil, the better...I guess.



DeDub :18white:
 

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I use Castrol synthetic blend 10W 40, gears seem to like it. I change anywhere after 3000 but before 5000
 

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My GL1500 has about the same mileage on it as yours and I switched last year to 15/50w Semi Synthetic. The engine is a lot smoother with this oil and gear changes are the best they have ever been.

For those that missed this the first time (and I change oil and filter every 3,000 miles)

I have been in contact, for some time, with an "oil expert" who works in the motor racing business and he has given me some very good tips.

As my Wing now has 86k on the clock I asked him should I change from my exisiting oil , Semi Synthetic 10w-40 and asked him to explain what 10w-40 , etc meant.

This is his reply (edited).

[align=left] Basically you have two descriptors of an oils viscosity, the 'winter' and 'summer' number. the designation was left over from the time of monograde oils where in teh winter you got an oil for how well it flowed at cold temperatures - a 20W being more viscous than a 15W etc. For the summer weight, start-up wasn't so important and it was more about theviscosity of the oil when hot, and again, a 50 would be more viscous than a 40 etc.[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]A lot ofpeople mistakenly think that the numbers are related - they are not!! these are arbitrary numbers used to define a viscosity range that the oils falls in according to seperate hot and coldviscosity tests. Therefore a20W-20 is not the same viscosity whencold and hot.The winter (W) number defines the dynamic viscosity of the oil when cold, and the summernumber defines the kinemataic viscosity ofthe oil at 100deg C.What's important to remember is that every oil thins down with increasing temperature, and something like a 10W-30 will thin down a lot more than a 5W-50. [/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]So basically it's as you say below. a 10W-40 and a 10W-30 have exactly the same cold temperature performance, but athigh temps, the 10W-30 is less viscous.[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]Something with a thicker high temp performance therefore would not be a bad idea for ultimate protection, especially in warmer weather. the only real downside to using these thick oils in terms of performance is that you get a little more viscous drag from the shearing of the thicker oil in bearings etc so this saps a little power, but still, BMW M series cars, and touring cars run a 10W-60 for protection so the power loss clearly is not huge. (other than purely oil characteristics, viscosity *can* point towards the quality of an oil in some cases but that isn't really relevant info - let me know if you need to know more about base oil quality tho).[/align] [align=left][/align] [align=left]It's something I do (or at least I like to, when I'm feeling a bit flush) - I use a 10W-50 in the summer and a 5W-40 in the winter. [/align] [align=left][/align] So with the conditions your bike see's (I don't really ride in the winter cold) you don't really need to worry about the W number.if you can find it,it would be good tho not essential going to a 10W-50 oil, the margin of protection that a 60 will give you over a 50 is arguably quite small (smaller than the jump from 40 to 50 anyway). the 10W-50 oils tend to be fully synthetics which should be a good thing, i don't know if there's any feedback from the owners club about the use of a full synthetic? but I'd recommend that you give it a go.

As a result I now use semi sythetic 15w-50 and my Wing really runs well on it. I definitely have noticed a difference.

Hope this helps ?
 

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For what its worth when I take a long ride over what the oil is gonna handle, I'll usally take the Harley. Please stop booing, just because Harley parts are on every street corner if I break down and '82 wing parts might be a stretch.My point is I'll change the oil filter and top off the oil until I get home and change the oil.The factory says to change the filter at 5k miles, so if your using Amsoil ,you should be able to go longer between changes then the factory recommended oci.But the filter still needs to be changed. If the oil is darker then it is when new ,to me says it's working. But once the filter is loaded upwith dirt the oil will bypass the filter which I don't think unfiltered oil is good for the motor.,,
 

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I've used Mobil 1 4T 10w-40 in my bike. It did make the bike shift easier but it caused some drag in the clutch when the bike got really warmed up.ie:parade mode. I currently use a Motorcycle specific ( Suziki 10-40 with the MA designation ) in the bike although would like to try the Rotella 15-40 diesel oil.

A related issue was that when I wanted to put synthetic transmission fluid in my older ( 97 ) Motorhome the mechanic advised against it because we didn't know what material was used in the clutch packs. He said some don't react well with synthetic tranny fluid.

Oil is most likely the one item that will cause the most dissent amoungst us all. You can't go wrong with following the manufactures recommendation. They built it, warranted it etc., so I don't think they give bad advise.
 

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I would not use an automotive (car) oil. These oils are not designed to hold up to the sheer forces that are caused by the transmission (welt clutch). Find an oil that has high sheer properties. To identify a good "shear stable" oil determine the API and ACEA
tests called HTHS (High Temperature/ High Shear) and all oils carrying these specifications are tested and scored. The HT/HS test is measured in Centipoise (cP) as the Cold Crank Simulator test is. The cP value should remain high.

SAE multi-viscosity grades have a specific lower limit for the HT/HS cP value. If a multi-viscosity oil cannot achieve a cP value above that limit, it cannot be classified under that viscosity grade. According to the SAE specifications, an oil must achieve an HT/HS cP value of 3.7 or higher in order to be classified at the 15w40 viscosity grade. The thinner the oil the lower the number. I use a good heavy duty diesel oil. Diesel motor oils are considered far superior to conventional oils and provide superior sheer protection. These oils may offer an alternatve if you don’t want to spring for the high cost of Motorcycle oils.
 

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I'll second what Kit said.

The oil is dirty at 5,000 miles. Change it out, no matter what you bought and put in the motor.

Long trip? Change the filter, top off, and ride it until you get home.
 

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Ahnerrj,check your owners manual for type of oil to be used in your goldwing. They didn't specify any motorcycle oil just what weight to use. And theres alot of older wings still on the road today.we may have more choices today then almost 30 years ago, but the engines demands haven't changed.Shear didn't seem to matter much in the old days, but everybody worry's about it today with all the 'super oils'.I do agree that the diesel oils of today are better then the ancient oil the bikes were designed to run on.But I wouldn't waste money on synthetic oil for a older wing, when it will run fine on basic cheaper almost crude oil.,,
 

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I seldom follow the Owners manual when it comes to oils. Especially a manufacture’s recommendation stated 20 years ago that one would consider unquestionable at the time. Considering the technological advancement made in the area of lubricants, I believe any recommendation that old must be reevaluated.

Just because shear wasn’t mentioned years ago, doesn’t mean the physical forces were less significant then they are today. The forces that oil molecules undergo due sheer is undeniable and worthy of any mechanics attention. Diesel oils currently meets the highest standards required by Trucking companies which can spend up $15,000 dollars for an engine rebuild. As for Synthetic oils… I think we all know why Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils. I use synthetic oil exclusively in my ST1300. I use Shell Rotella-T 5W-40 and chose this oil based on factual research. Rotella-T is one of the top three heavy duty Diesel motor oils available to consumers. The endurance specs are impressive. My GL1100 which in still undergoing a break-in period uses Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 (an excellent heavy duty conventional Diesel oil - in my opinion).

There it is… strictly my opinion. I do not cut corners when it comes to oil.

Note the specs for Delvac. Most high quality Diesel oils will have these features.


http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_Super.asp
 

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so, your saying the people that built your motorcycle didn't know which oil to use in their product?And the physical forces have changed so now a 30 year old bike needs better oil? Diesel oil is a good choice of lubrication in these older bikes, but I wouldn't use oil's that are overkill in the protection dept, especially when oil company's have convinced people to use high $$$ oil then change that oil at 3k intervals.New bikes can probably benefit from the new oil out there ,but the old timers won't see any benefit from them.
 

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Hello All. The name is Jeff and I am an infrequent visitor to these parts. I don't get to ride my '96 1500 too much, but it is time for, among other things, an oil change. As you know, the manual is calling for SF or SG rated oil, but those are obsolete. I've read lots of ideas here, and at other sites online, on which dino oils to use, but when I've looked at them they all seem to be SM rated. Everything I've read says to stay away from SM oils for motorcycles. My ride is on the center stand right now ready to drain, but I am woefully confused as to which way to go. Do I need to worry about API ratings. Is the Rotella-T 15w/40all the same, or do I look for a specific rating? Thanks for the help.
 

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AGAIN WIT THE OIL THANG !!!HERE WE GO !! :cool: :yelling: :thumbsup: :thumbsdown: :smallpopcorn: :blackstuff: :RTFM:

HMMMMMMMMMMM ?? :sleepy:
I prefer Chevron's Delo 400 15w40
 

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Any good oil that is NOT energy conserving.

Me? I prefer Chevron's Delo 400 15w40 which can be bought at Walmart for about $12/gallon give or take.

I am against any Castrol m/c product, but that is why they make buttered popcorn.
 

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Thanks fella's. I guess I'm just hung up and the API rating thing. If I read you correctly, it doesn't matter. Looks like it's gonna be Rotella-T or the Delo 400. Thanks again.
 

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I am going on delo 400LEwill let ya know
 

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I put DELVAC in two days ago. Not that anyone cares...
I have one gallon of ROTELLA left and then I move on to the shelf of DELO I have stocked up on when it went on sale. Same oil goes in my 2001 245,000 mile Isuzu Rodeo. Makes it easy to remember, too. Only the Focus gets the thinner stuff.
As NUMEROUS previous threads have said, any non energy conserving will be dandy, many here like the diesel oils. Me is one of them.
:waving:
 
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