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I'm putting the bike (GL1500) away for the winter. I'll change the oil and filter as usual, but I've read an article by a guy who believes any decent motor (car) oil will do the job.

I don't want to risk damageand wondered if anyone here can advise? The main point seems to be that car and bike oil will do the same job unless the engine is thrashed, as in racing.

Thanks in advance,
 

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Modern car oils (the quality one's) have some great anti-wear/anti-viscosity breakdownadditives - sometimes better than the "motorcycle-specific" oils. It will certainly save you money.

Most people in the know, when asked what kind of oil to use will simply answer, "change often." It's more important to change the oil often than to worry about one kind or another as long as it's a good quality oil and it's therecommended viscosity for your bike (10W-40, etc.).

Marco

Ashland, OR
 

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I run Mobile 1 synthetic (15-50) in mine. But it's real hot down here. The previous owner ran auto 20-50 dino. I have noticed I'm using less oil than I was, since I switched over to the synthetic. It also seems to run a little better and shift easier than before.

Bob
 
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This is abig topic, Oil. :baffled:As previously stated the most important thing about oil is change it often. :clapper:The owners manual of the :18red:states to change the oil and filter every 8000 miles, :crying:most owners including myself change the oil and filter every 4000 miles. :grinner:

:santawaving: :18red: :santawaving:
 

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Hi Keith, I change my oil every 3000 miles or every 6 months with a filter at every change. I only use Castrol, or Quaker State full synthetics and 5W-50 has been the oil of choice for 5 years or so. The engines stay really clean, and seeing that my engines are 12, 44, 26, and 31 years old, spoilling them with the "good" stuff can't hurt. The Goldwing seems fine on the 5W-50 synthetic.

Jim -waiting for a big engine repair! :shock:
 

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Underwing

I believe you are asking what oil to use as a final oil change for storage, not riding. Anything you want! Use 10-30 bottom end .98c a litre stuff. I figure you will fire up in the spring and change it correct? Its not going to break down if its not getting super heated for long periods of time as in riding. you'll spend $3.50 rather than $10.50 or $23.50.

Myself....I don't do a storage change as I will do a late season change so it isn't close for a regular change by the time its parked. I fire it up in the spring and do a new change.

If I interpreted the question wrong. I switch my quality oils (Quacker or Castrol)depending on the variance in temps through out the summer. In the spring, I will run 10-40. If I'm going to do one of my southern jaunts down to see AZ then I'll thicken up to 15-50. I ran synthetic in my 400,000klm motor for 5 years before I blew it up. (whichwas because of a worn cam bearing which disinegratedmy belts)

In my new partial rebuild that has about 100,000klm, my wrench and I figured we should run regular oil for this season, and I think I'll try synthetic for next season. (If I ever get around to pulling that damn starter.) I have never bought the specialty motorcycle oils and i managed to get a couple of miles outta that old mill didn't I.

Kyle

My hair's turning white, My neck's always been red, and My collar's still blue
 

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I have to agree with our "VERY ACTIVE MEMBER" from Ireland...;)

I change oil/filter every 4k miles. Used to be all the manufacturers said to use cycle specific oils only. Maybe because of the extra stress/strain imposed by transmission gears meshing-shearing, and all the heat from clutches.

But here in the colonies, with enviromental laws. The autos are running higher r.p.m.'s and temperatures, and the newer oils,(especially the synthetics), are formulated for these engines.

I guess what I'm saying is, to not feel guilty about using a quality automotive oil in your pride and joy. But I do fret if I'm on a trip and have to push the interval very far beyond the 4,000 mile mark.
 
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Shooter wrote:
I have to agree with our "VERY ACTIVE MEMBER" from Ireland...;)

I change oil/filter every 4k miles.
Hurragh, Shooter agrees with me, :clapper: and he is a "Guru" :coollep:and he also gave me a Wink ;) That has just made my day. :grinner:Thanks Shooter.

:santahat: :18red: :santahat:
 

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Redwing. wrote:
Hurragh, Shooter agrees with me, :clapper: and he is a "Guru" :coollep:and he also gave me a Wink ;) That has just made my day. :grinner:Thanks Shooter.

:santahat: :18red: :santahat:
I am soooooooo happy for you REDWING that some body winked at you:cool: ..even if it was a fella:D:D and heres another one for ya ;)....Now what do ya want for Christmas ...?:santawaving:a kiss?
cheers Ciaran
 

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I run a unipart fully synthetic motor oil 5w / 40w in my 100.000mile +

1500 have done for 3 years now if you read a early honda handbook

itrecomends to use a quality motor oil as for mileages for oil changes

i do mine every 6000ish and thats early for synthetics as my toyota only

requires one every20.000 mile or yearly
 

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Well what a can of worms we have opened here. I use synthetic all the time and do an oil change just before putting her away for the winter. As I understand, the problem with dino oil is it has a shelf lifeonce exposed toair, thats why they give you both time and mileage interval. Even sitting in a engine the dino oil will absorb acids from the engine material and moisture from condensation, so if you plan to change the oil before you first start it up in the new season, dino is fine. Synthetics (100%) do not have a shelf life, and will not absorb moisture. Apparently the US military uses synthetics when it mothballspretty much anything with an engine, the idea being even if it sits for years, and they suddenly need it, just fuel it start it and go the oil is still good. It apparently sticks to the sides of the cylinders muchlonger then the dino stuff. So I change the oil at storage time, in the spring start and go and change at about the 6,000Km mark. The other thing to remember is don't mix oil types. If you plan to use synthetics while riding, don't use dino to store. It take very little dino to destroy the advantages of Syn. Don't get me wrong I am not saying your bike will explode (much:clapper:) if you mix them, but the change interval of the syn is shorten drastically if mixed with dino. Good Luck Oh ya one more thing

DON'T USE OILS MARKED FOR FUEL EFFICIENCY OR FUEL SAVING.VERY BAD FOR THECLUTCH THAT SHARES THE ENGINE OIL.



I must rest now, I have strained my Guru brain and need a re-charge hmmmmmmmmmmm hmmmmmmmmmmm

God I love spell check, make me look much smrter thenI is (is there a grammer checker??:cool:)

Hey,,, how come there are no emoticons for the 1200???? Boy if I had feelings, they'd be hurt right now:whip:

HappyThanksgivings to our Americanfriends:waving::waving:


Ok, I am really going now bye
 

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All good stuff about the oil. Cheap oils today are most likely much better than the premium oils that were available when our Classic Wings were new.

I want to know why there are no emoticons for the 1200 also. It's frustrating enough that I can't find a scale model of a 1200 and now I find here that there are no 1200 emoticons. Life can be so tragic at times................

Vic
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
I want to know why there are no emoticons for the 1200 also. It's frustrating enough that I can't find a scale model of a 1200 and now I find here that there are no 1200 emoticons. Life can be so tragic at times................
I was hoping to have them done already, but it will bearound Christmas. I'm almost ready to ride again after the accidentand theres a shiny new 05 waiting for collection. Almost finished physio so will have time over the Christmas break to sort out the emoticons. The sooner I can g for a ride on my 05 the better, sitting around all day drives me nuts! :gunhead:
 
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Hey Budegan, :coollep: Take your time. :jumper:The most important thing in your life now is to get fit for the road again, :clapper:and to enjoy many safe (s)miles on your :18red:I hope the shiny '05you are collecting is the fastest colour. :grinner:

:santawaving: :18red: :santawaving:
 

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Martin, hope you get yourself in good enough shape before you get out there on that Wing again. I was off my Wing for 6 weeks a while back (for health reasons)and it took me a few days to get re oriented to driving my Wing again even though I'd been riding for many years prior.

Don't worry about those emoticons till you get your fill of driving that 05, I can wait a little longer for them.

Ride safe, Vic

A good physio method to help you prepare for bike ridingis to use one of those large inflatable rubber balls to sit on. It'll help you get comfortable in the sittingposition for the bike and also help you with your balance. Good luck.
 

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Good luck with the physio Martin. If you are managing okay with the excercises it will give you an idea of how quick you will recover fully. The rubber ball Vic mentioned is a great idea. Also may I suggest your local swimming pool. Even if you can't swim the water will support your weight while you do some water excercises.
 

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Thanks for all your help everone.

Having read and digested all of your input, along with a great article by Trevor White, I have changed the oil for a standard mineral automotive oil with no friction modifiers. I'll probably run it a couple of times between now and March, then I'll change the oil and filter again before it's back on the road.

I'll be changing theoil and filtera couple of timesa year, regardless of annual mileage (it's quite low) and type of oil used.If you get chance have a read of Trevor Whites articles on fuel and oil. They're a real eye opener! http://www.gwocgb.co.uk/documents/tgw_mc-oil.pdf

:clapper::clapper::clapper:
 

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I always believed that even cheap oil will do the job if it's changed regularly. Not that I will be chancing cheapo in my Goldwing, but it's worth bearing in mind.
 

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Grouchomax wrote:
I always believed that even cheap oil will do the job if it's changed regularly. Not that I will be chancing cheapo in my Goldwing, but it's worth bearing in mind.
The oil I've used for over winter storage is of a considerably higher spec than the original Honda recommendation. I don't see it as taking a chance.It's cheaper than some others but will do the same job. Probably won'tgive the oil companies quite so much profit though!



:santawaving:
 
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