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I'm removing my GL1200 engine for the first time and I'm about down to the point of taking the engine out of the frame. I've seen where some suggest disconnecting the drive bydisconnecting the final drive. I've not had this apart and I'm looking for some clarification. When the rear tire's removed and the 4 bolts removed what's after? From that point isthe shaftin the swingarm pulled to the rear?

Thanks ahead of time :)
 

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For engine removal the rear wheel and final drive dont need to be touched.
The drive shaft needs to be disconnected though.
There is a C clip on the engine output shaft behind the rubber boot which holds the driveshaft to the output shaft. Once that C clip is removed the driveshaft will slide to the rear and off the output shaft then engine can be removed. Installation is the reverse.
 

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If you are just wanting to remove the engine, there is no need to remove the rear wheel, drive and all that. Once you have all the lifelines and all the hoses and all the many things you have to take loose done, all you have to do is undo the rubber boot and slide it back, then preferably with someone to help you, slide the engine forward and gently tip it up a bit, it will slide right off the splines.

I would recommend that you get a manual and study it for a couple days prior to attempting this kind of thing.

I always study a manual before doing something major, and keep it handy during the process. I do not always follow it, and do figure out shortcuts, but a manual helps a whole lot. It will also show you specialized tools you will need for certain things that you need to do. Some you can make with thinwall sockets and a grinder, some it is easier to just go order them.

Specialized tools are not cheap either.......most are gold filled, gotta be.....for what they cost.

Kit
 

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On my 1200 there was no c clip. I just slid the boot back and slid the u-joint/shaft off the output engine shaft as I was moving the engine slightly ahead and to the left. U-joint and boot stays with swing arm in the bike. Be carefull not to damage the boot and the spring like clamp.
 

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Great guys thanks. I've downloaded Haynes, Honda and have a Clymers on hand as well plus I downloaded an engine removal process cheat sheet posted at another site and mentioned here.
Anyway, my first choice, of course was, to try moving the engine rather than fooling with the rear wheel and final drive but I wasn't sure exactly how much movement it would take to clear the shaft from the splines, and difficulty of realighnment on installation. It doesn't sound like there's a lot of movement forward needed.
I'll be going that route first.

Thanks!
Semper Fi
 

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Have any advice on finding or making the tools for removing the clutch housing? This removal is so that I can change out the sump pump, and chain. And yes I am changing out the main pump as well.

:pumpkin:
 

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AVA AUTO TECH wrote:
On my 1200 there was no c clip.
That's one difference between the 1000/1100 and the 1200/1500 the later models didn't use the snap ring in the u-joint and the drive shaft wasn't captive in the swingarm as it is in the 1000/1100. You can unbolt the final drive on a 1200/1500 and pull it free with the drive shaft attached to the final drive unlike the 1000/1100 that has the final that pulls off the shaft leaving it in the swingarm.
 

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Not being a 1200 guy I did not know that. Thanks for the info Paul
 

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if you do remove the rear end, however, and therefore pull the driveshaft out you MUST replace the oil seal that is on the driveshaft itself or you will leak rear end oil up the shaft

the parts guy will have trouble finding the seal on the fisch, it is on the one entitled "propeller shaft"
 

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RE: "the engine removal process cheat sheet posted at another site", could you post the link? I'm just about to remove my engine too...any short cuts will help.

Thanks, Andre
 

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Having done four engine removals and replacements in the past year I can say from experience the greatest shortcut that I know of is using a bike jack. Makes getting the big lump out and back in MUCH easier. One other tip was mentioned by our proprietor, Mr. Saunders himself. That's to leave the carbs in the frame. Unbolt them from the engine, disconnect any vacuum and fuel lines that connect them to the engine and suspend them over the engine with a bungee or cords around the intake runners and up over the frame to the other side. Then if you want to remove the carbs you can just lift them out once the engine's out making cable removal easy. Putting the carbs back in a bike that has the engine out is easy that way, attach the throttle cables, hang the carbs in place and reinstall the engine. Much easier than putting the cables back on with the engine in place.
 

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This is the link for the cheat sheet HTTP://www.txwingz.com/images/removal.doc
Having never tackled this I found some of the advice nice to have although not all of it fit my needs. One part about cutting and soldering back later the shift sensor harness and water temp sensor harness wasn't. The problem he had getting them disconnected and out wasn't something I ran into. took me ten minutes to get both out.
But one thing it did provide for sure was things I could ask about here and get even more insight from the helpful folks here.

Cheers!
 
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