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finally got the father in laws bike. '77 gl 1000.



been sitting in a barn for 6 or 7 years. Mom said the main bearing were out on it. How can I confirm its the bearings and not a stuck piston? She's no help and the dumbass that was trying to get it going last year is an idiot that i don't want to talk to.



replaced the main fuse today, was totally corroded. Starter seleniod is out, but also would not crank when I jumped it. Pulled the plugs and I cannot turn the wheel when in gear.



I will get a manual for it soon but just trying to see where I'm at right now. also do these things have a dip stick? might answerr my question real quick if it doesn't have any oil in it. I see the fill hole on the right. Was just wondering if I'm just as blind as my wife says I am.



TIA, Jim
 

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try to spin that rear wheel in as high a gear as possible; no dipstick

on this model. lastly you can pull the heads and look at the cylinder

bores if you see rust probably a piston. otherwise it could be a bearing

but it will take some disassemlby to find out for sure.
 

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Welcome Jim to the Forum from Andover, Kansas!! :waving:

I hope you find the Forum as informative and as much fun as we do! :cooldevil:

Again, Welcome Aboard! :action:
 

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to see oil level look on the right side . down low , just below the frame tube and in front of the brake pedal . you will see a round sight glass. may have to clean it off , the oil level shoule be between the marks on the case . if you can see oil , but no level its likely too full . a flash lite is handy here .
 

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Manuals for download are on the web
 

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I had a stuck CB750, not siezed. Got it freed by pouring brake fluid in the spark plug holes and working the crank. After I got it running, 10 seconds or so, I changed the oil. Never had a problem afterwards.
 

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Even a good engine that's been sitting that long can be hard to turn over because it's pretty common for a film of rust to develop on the cylinder walls which tends to resist the rings from moving. I resurrected an 1100 engine that had some rust in the cylinder by soaking the bores with penetrating oil through the spark plug holes and after a few days worked the engine loose with a wrench on the alternator rotor bolt under the cap on the left rear of the engine. Once I'd gotten it to turn over by hand I connected a battery to the starter and spun the engine over for several seconds with the spark plugs out and a shot of penetrating oil in each hole. I repeated this several times. After it was freed up and I got the engine running the compression came up nicely as the rings freed up.
 

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JCFM,
Welcome to the forum. Feel free to post any problems or questions you may have while rebuilding that wing. Almost everyone on here will lend you a hand and free advise. As you know Honda is proud of their parts, but many of us have found alternates that work just as well, if not better! Just ask.
Later Rumple
 

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Jim,

I would take out all the spark-plugs and soak the cylinders at least overnight in MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) before trying to crank it.

It would also be a good idea to take off the covers on thefront of the engine to make sure the timing belts are intact and timed correctly, piston valve contact could also keep the engine from cranking over.

On a 77 if it is still there, underneath the right sidetank cover right next to the radiator overflow reservoir youshould find a kickstarter lever. This fits in on the left side of the bike just behind the stator housing at the very back of the engine. Thiscould help in your efforts to crank the engine over.

The kickstarter can be seen in this picture.










Peter
 

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Just a gentle reminder to remove the spark plugs before putting the bike in gear and trying to turn the back wheel to see if the engine is siezed. ( don't ask me how I know!!!!:doh:



Good reminder from Peterbylt about the kick start lever for those with the old 1000 models. :clapper:
 

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great replies guys! need another cup of coffee and then will get back out there.

I did remove the plugs and put some penetrating oil last night. so maybe.....
 

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jcfm64 wrote:
great replies guys! need another cup of coffee and then will get back out there.

I did remove the plugs and put some penetrating oil last night. so maybe.....
The coffe always helps, even if it don't fix it!!!!:clapper::clapper:
 

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Well here's the news.

The cylinders broke free easily the next morning! It did have oil in it (maybe a pint too much). So that's good news. I think the seleniod is shot. It will turn over by jumping the terminals.

Got a ton of work to do on it. plugs are nasty. I imagine original plug wires. Carbs are more than likely toast. battery is crap. fuel lines dry rotted. Probably needs timing belts. valves adjusted.

I did replace the main fuse with a blade style. Took the front calipers off and cleaned them and the MC. Need to remove the plunger to get the rest of the crap out of it. The rear brake has no fluid in it and is very stiff, so I will be removing and cleaning it also. I went to the brakes after it cranked over so I could push in and out of the garage easily.

So as you can see got a little bit of work to get this thing back on the road. Might be a while with limited funds and time. I spent too much time working on it last week when it was a couple great days out that I should have been riding my other bike some. At least the tires are good. Probably have next to no miles on them and was stored inside while it was sitting. So they are not an immediate need with my style of riding.

It did come with a vetter, a spare vetter carcass and some large hard bags. Not sure I want to put the fairing back on this one. I kinda like the naked look.

I'm sure I'll be bugging you guys more as I go and appreciate the help.
 

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I will also need to hunt down a kick starter as mine is missing. OZ powersports is here in town. They are high but usually have everything.



almost forgot front fork seals are leaky also.
 

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Thanks for the update on the progress and I look forward to seeing news of the Pheonix rising still further from the ashes as time goes on. :clapper::clapper:
 

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The kick starter lever is stored in the left hand side cover of the false gas tank, check there for it if you haven't already. An old 75 I bought years ago, used, didn't have it either.
 

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Bagmaster wrote:
The kick starter lever is stored in the left hand side cover of the false gas tank, check there for it if you haven't already. An old 75 I bought years ago, used, didn't have it either.
I thought they were in the right hand side? :baffled:
 

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Yes right hand side.
 
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