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I need help with changing the timing belts on a 1998 GL1500. The Service Manual is on back order from Helms, Inc. for 2 months. I've got the covers off and before taking off the belts, I'd like some advice.

Do I need to line up any timing marks before removing the belts? If I mark the position of the timing pulleys relative to the case prior to removal of belts, and assure they are in same position after new belts are on is that good enough? Second Question: What is the proper procedure for tensioning the belts once new ones are on? Do I loosen the spring-loaded idler, let the spring tension set the load and then retighten the idler? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Greg H. from Burnsville, MN:waving:
 

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First off, if you haven't changed timing belts before I would highly recommend getting a manual and study it thouroughly, because, if you make an error in timing the belts you could bend many valves and rack up an extremely expensive repair bill. The manual is well worth the investment.

To answer your questions; all marks must be lined up precisely, when you remove the old belts the camshaft can rotate due to spring pressure on the cam lobe so the mark location can change, therefore you have line up all marks as the new belt is being installed.

Theoretically, the tensioner spring is supposed to get the tension right, but, if there's any friction or corrosion interfering with the spring, the adjustment will be off. You do not need a lot of tension on the timing belts and they are better off being slightly loose than over tight, or else the tension will cause premature cam and crank bearing wear, as well as belt over heating and failure.

Hope this helps.

Vic
 

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Vic,

Thanks so much for your input. I have been working on equipment for 30 years and understand fully the downside of incorrect timing alignment. I was thinking that in this instance I could:

line up the crank timing mark,

put an accurate ink mark across the cam pulley & case,

loosen the idler,

slip off the old and install the new belt (assuring the marks are in same place),

retension the idler (with spring pressure only),

then recheck marks.

Your thoughts???

Thanks!!:cheeky1:Greg
 

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Greg, welcome to the forum. First of all you will need to line up the marks or make your own marks with tippex. The crankshaft pulley has no marks at the front so just mark it as you do the other pulleys. If you are at TDC the right side cam pulley will move from spring pressure once you pop the belts off. When refitting the new belts, just let the adjusters fall into position by spring pressure and then give a small little push to help it. Hope this helps.
 

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Jason,

Thank you for the reply. I cannot wait the 2 months for my manual to arrive from Helm. I need to winterize this bike as it just snowed today!!

Bought it with damage to right front area and am fixing up. Can't wait to use it (first Wing). Selling my souped-up 2002 VTX1800R since my dearest refuses to ride on on the pillion seat and put up the 3" Hard Khrome Straights roaring in her ear.

Really appreciate your help. And Happy Holidays to you.

Greg
 
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Hey GolfBug, Welcome to the nest and visit often. :clapper:Im not a "Guru" on this board, :grinner:so the only advice that Ican offer you in regard to changing the timing belts is, If you have any doubt whatsoever get a real spanner to do the work for you. :jumper:If you make the slightest mistake it will cost you a fortune to repair it. :crying:Good luck with whatever you decide. :coollep:

:santawaving: :18red: :santawaving:
 

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Greg, If you can wait until Monday or Tuesday I will scan timing belt the pages from the Clymer and mail them to you. Let me know here or by PM if you prefer.
 

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Redwing,

Thanks for the welcome. I'll certainly be careful. I have a lot of experience with Peugeot diesels and know full well what happens when the timing belt goes or the timing is off. I look forward to visiting the board often and helping when I can.

One thing I've learned so far on this project is some plastic repair. So far I've saved $1050.00 (USD) with a $3.00 tube of Devcon Plastic Weld. This is great stuff!! It's really strong and when the surfaces are properly prepped, and perhaps some mesh to help with strengthening the patch, you can save a bundle.

Hope to visit with you on the Forum in the future, and Happy Holidays to you also.

Regards,

Greg (GolfBug)
 

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Jason,

Thanks very much for the offer to scan Clymer Pages. I am going to tinker this afternoon, so if I get in trouble, I leave a post here to ask for you to scan the pages. Do you have a scanner at home? Can you email the pages vs. snail mail? How many pages are there?

Thanks!

GolfBug
 

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After lining up the timing marks on all 3 pulleys so that they were at the marks, and the words "UP" on the 2 outside pulleys were up, the work began. I followed the steps I listed in the 3rd post of this thread, adding the loosening of the ignition trigger modules to allow the back timing belt to be removed. Everything went smoothly. I even had to replace the RH pulley and cover plate behind it due to damage. None of the pulleys moved -- the belts were all tensioned by the spring loaded idlers -- and bolts were torqued.

Started the engine right up without a problem. Lots of worry over nothing, but the cautionary moves to assure timing marks stayed aligned prevented any accident.

Thanks to all who assisted with my request today.
 

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Well done on tackling the job. You were lucky with the pulleys staying put, any I've seen done had one of the cam pullys spring about 45 degrees off. Sounds like you avoided a disaster with that damaged tensioner.
 

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Greg,

Glad to hear it went well, I am in the middle of doing this. I'm down to removing the last belt and realized that I needed to either remove the crank bolt or the pulse sensors. I'm leaning towards removing the pulse sensors. Were they easy tp remove? I removed the bolts of one and It seemed the be stuck there. I was afraid to pry. Thanks



Steve
 

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The pulkse sensor bolts aere easy to remove. Better to mark the crank pulley where the line in the crankcas halves meet it.
 

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Steve,

I didn't remove the sensor bolts, just loosened them enough to allow wiggling the back belt past them. They seemed to move as soon as the bolts were loosened. I left the pulley alone.

Good luck.

Greg
 

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Thanks. But as I mentioned in my posts, I do many years of mechanical experience -- just not with this engine. Just applied common sense and carefulness. It was like following the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once". I also turned the engine over by hand first to see if anything was hitting or jamming. Then I put the engine kill switch to the off position to turn over the engineto see if I heard any unusual tapping. Thein I gave 'er a go and it fired right up.

I'm happy!:)
 
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GolfBug wrote:
Thanks. But as I mentioned in my posts, I do many years of mechanical experience -- just not with this engine. Just applied common sense and carefulness. It was like following the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once". I also turned the engine over by hand first to see if anything was hitting or jamming. Then I put the engine kill switch to the off position to turn over the engineto see if I heard any unusual tapping. Thein I gave 'er a go and it fired right up.

I'm happy!:)
Well done Golfbug, :clapper: Just reading between the lines of your posts, :action:eek:ne would know immediately that you are not anovice. :grinner:Thats the oneitem that never can be achievedeasily "EXPERIENCE" It takes a long number of years to earn it. ;) I can see promotion to the dizzy heights of "Guru" coming in your direction very soon. :clapper:Thanks for joining the nest and telling us how the job went. :leprechaun:Make sure and visit often. :santahat:

:santawaving: :18red: :santawaving:
 

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It's great that you don't have to pull the rads on the 1500 to replace the T belts, unlike earlier models. Makes the whole job a lot less messy.
 

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Well I got mine back together this evening. I checked everything several times.Everything worked out very nicely. Idid not putHondaline belts,instead I went with the NAPA brand. Much cheeper! I have $62.00 in this job. My local Honda dealer quoted me $200.00. Wow, I relieved! Thanks for all the help from this forum. Now if only it warm up outside!


Steve
 
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