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Getting ready to pull exhaust pipes to remove swing arm. Any suggestions on what to watch out for. How much of a buggar will it be to get back on?

Also, removed the U-joint to check for play. Any other test I should do other than just visual exam of U-joint? Is there a test to do to check it for play in the bearings?

And one last one; when I grab the out-put shaft of the tranny how much rotational play should there be? I get about half to three-quarter of an inch play.



Thanks, :waving:
 

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Get new, 4 of item 1 and two of item 7 in the bmp

Not to big a pain. make sure the fronts of item 2 are opened enough for item 7 to slide in prior to installing item 2.
easier to do it on the bench than lying on the floor :)

Then put item 2 on, supported with item 15 supported at the rear just to hold them in place

Loosly put on items 6 & 5 (the clamps)

then push item 8 and 4 on separately slowly rotating as you push them in.

remove old item 1's and carefully scrape the carbon off the manifolds. Insert new Item 1's

I used never seize on the manifold nuts and Loctite on the manifold bolts, some which came out during removal

No idea how much play there is in the final drive could be quite a lot as there are lots of gear slack to take up.

Just put one finger in the centre of the bearing, rotate slowly, you will feel if there is any problem. If it bothers you you can replace them while they're off, take your old ones to a bearing shop, they are probably stock sizes.
 

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You usually end up breaking one or more of the exhaust studs in the cylinder heads, but theres always a stump left to get a vicegrips onto. If there is any noticeable play in the UJ then it's scrap, get a new one. The play you describe in the OP shaftseems normal, mine is the same.
 

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The engine guards will have to be removed before taking off the exaust. I usually remove the lower threaded rod completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
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My shop manual refers to removing the pipes as a unit. Can this be done practially or do you wind up tweeking something that is a problem later?

Thanks very much for the info.



GW1200
 
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Hey ChickenWing1200 :waving: Welcome to the forum :clapper: These guys will soon get all your problems sorted. :weightlifter:

:jumper::18red::jumper:
 

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I tried it both ways, I found it was a pain to try to do it in one piece, maybe if you had help it might be ok. but for the price of 2 of item 7, just as easy to split them.
Normally I am working on my own when I do this.
 

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Thanks Tricky, and to all, you are a great bunch. Hope I can be of help sometime.



CW1200
 

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If you run the engine prior to starting the job, then loosen the manifold nuts, with them being warm either the whole stud will come out or the nut will loosen, let it cool down before continuing. Or you could apply a little heat to the nuts with a propane torch that usually does the job, a little wd40 helps too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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Pulled the pipes tonight, got lucky. Manifold nuts came right off with just a little liquid wrench. Dropped as complete unit just enough to get swing arm out.

Curious though, I don't see any seals around where the pipes fit into the heads, might have to do a little more looking.

Anyway, thanks again, hope it goes back together this easy.



CW1200:clapper:
 

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believe me, they are there, squashed up, just takes a small screwdriver to pry them out, they are a rolled copper tube so that when pressure is applied via the manifold bolts they squash and seal.:clapper:
 

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Quick tip... When you reassemble the manifolds, coat the threads on the studs with high temp anti-seize compound... If you ever need to remove them again,, It's a cake walk.

I use anti-seize on every nut and bolt I remove because sure as you're breathing, there wll come a day when you need to remove it again...
 

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Thanks Renegade forgot about that, will pick some up.

Looks like we share similar bikes. If your picture is accurate I have the same bike, color and all, 84A 1200.



Thanks,

CW1200
 

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Didn't have time to take a good look last night, started getting dark. Will have a good look this weekend and order up some parts.

Also decided to replace the timing belts this weekend since I'm not sure how old they are and don't think they have ever been replaced (76k). Might as well take care of business since I have her un-dressed anyway.

Thanks again,



CW1200
 

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You will numbers for replacement belts on this site on the homepage rather than buying Honda's pricey belts.
 

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Sorry Tricky didn't quite get that last message about belt prices.



CW1200
 

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Get NAPA 250070 belts, they were around $25-30 each when I bought a pair last year. I believe they are the same as the 83 Toyota Tercel. I think tricky was doing a Yoda impression and saying that there's information on aftermarket belts on Steve's Goldwing Tips page on this site.
 

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Yeah I found some info on that and apparently you can use equivilants from Gates and NAPA that are very low cost replacements.

Thanks for the feedback.



CW1200
 

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I've been using the Gates versions for years now without any regrets and I know lots of people also using them.
 

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Hey FitzAl, boy you must be bored cruisin the old post. That was a whole riding season ago, but thanks for the note.

How are things in Ireland these days, nice to know our fellow GL riders are with us. Web makes for a small world, ya know.

I did buy the Gates belts and they are very good quality, and cheap too, got the set for $14.00 US, work great.

Thanks again for the post, have a great riding time wherever you go.

:leprechaun::leprechaun::leprechaun:
 
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