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I have a S/S exhaust for my GL1200 but am having trouble removing the old, corroded studs. i have got about 4 of the 8 out but the others don't want to know!

I don't want to use too much muscle for fear of snapping them off and penetrating oil doesn't go uphill (damn this gravity thing!) - does anyone have a cunning plan or trick to help me out?

Jason:?
 

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You will probably end up having to apply a bit of heat from a butane torch around the studs. The head wont melt from butane but should swell enough for you to get the studs out with a vicegrips.
 

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Welcome to the forum, a few of the guys here have heated the studs with a torch then applied a candle to the studs, They claim the parafin does soak in and helps loosen the stud. Thinking positive here, once you get them out, chase the threads with a tap of the propper size and apply some anti-sieze to the NEW studs.... :gunhead:
 

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Applying heat and then a bit of paraffin works. Heating and shocking with water will also help. BTW penetrating oil and other thin fluids will run uphill, it's capillary action.
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/smile.gif I found that really high quality Penetrating oil .. (Mextor,I believe )  .. that is the sorta stuff the pro's use.... allowed to soak overnight...  and a second application...  and then using a pair of 12 mm wrenches on a pair of nuts ... the double nut trick ...worked just fine...allign the two wrenches , after tightening the nuts against each other.. and holding both  wrenches together in one hand ... rock them back and forth   by just a few degrees... until you hear  a "tic" .. and there you are../forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif....  My mechanic friend said.. that  by rocking .. I have probably stretched the studs just a bit.. and he recommended replacement.. until I said the torque was only 13 ft-lbs... You can easily..but sadly /forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif tell if a stud, or any bolt is stretched.. It will not "torque up"... and you will keep tightening .. until it snaps off... but unlikely if you use a torque wrench.. and a real 13 ft lbs../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gifSilverDave 
 

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Jason, Be sure to post your results. I have rusted studs that I will need to deal with soon.
 

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Thanks for the advice but......................

..............the engine is on the bike. how does the penetrating oil go "uphill"?

Or am I being stupid?:shock:

Jason
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif Penetrating oil .. and indeed .. the pariffin applied to a heated stud will "Crawl" up into the gap through Capillary action... it may take several applications to work .. the stud is at least an inch  of thread buried in the engine.. but it will work... Clear the area of any plastic, heat the stud..  hit it with a Quality penetrant (spray upwards towards the joint area) , or touch it with  the paraffin, and get a good double nut grip on it.. and it will (eventually)  come loose.. /forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif Buy a small can of "Never-Seize"  to coat the threads with  for re-installing .. SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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Hey Jason the guy's are all giving good trick's:cheeky1:

By the way i suggest to use new studs and bolts (honda used coppernuts excellent for exaust) and also the anti sieze or graphite grease i done mine gl1200 1985 when i remove the engine for an alternator replacement ..... all when good using heat and the cold water rag technic..... good luck
 

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Back when I worked in a shipyard for the worst rusted in bolts and nuts I came up with this. Iwould mix up some neversieze and wd-40 or kerosene or diesel fuel. Heat upoutside of bolt ( you want the female part of the stuck piece to open and let in liquid )? is this X rated ? and brush on the mixture heat it a couple of times and keep adding the stuff and it almost always worked...... the only other advice is take your time it's almost always better waiting till tommorow than trying to drill outand retap everything.Rod :action:
 

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Uppon these methods failing, I've had good luck rat-a- tat-a-tat'ing the aluminum surrounding the studs.Use a piece of flat ended mild steel, like 1/4 to 3/8. I use a 4 lb hammer. Pull gradually on tool, push, pull, push, pull, and bingo, it'll pop loose. (hopefully) I've used the push, pull technique for years, seems to work fairly well. Trick is to not reefe on it. Does mark up the aluminum on the heat, which you might not like. Your call.
 
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