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I should have known. I had warnings. Cousin Jack had a tale on these very same pages which included a tale of him and his beloved Red crossing the high winded bridge over the waves below. But like a moth to a flame, I approached it. With a swagger and a meticulous planner’s nonchalance – it made sense to the ride plan and we would do it. I checked Google Maps MANY times after I made the plan - often switching to “satellite” view. Like a kid that just caught a snake in box, always peeking. Eager to come "in touch” with my decision, but wary of the consequences.
Why the trepidation? Those that suffer from a fear of heights will understand. Those that thrill to the floating pitches and jerks of roller coasters may understand. Those that have yet to travel my roads or have that remarkable fearlessness of heights in wide open space may not understand (like my wife) – they will love every minute and want to go back for more. Truth be told – in the end – I will go back one day for more as well. But, alas, we ran out of time for further thrills this ride. Once, was enough.
This particular ride came near the end of a day. We had checked out of Coos Bay, Oregon (about 232 miles south) in the morning and rode the foggy and cool Oregon coast. Many of our “sights” were unseen through fog. Others were phantasmagorical as we rode through fog banks and then crested hilltops to look over the fog once again. As we rode north the warnings of heat began to become reality. A day ridden mostly on the 50’s and cool started into the 70’s and humid.
Near the end of the Oregon coast we dipped in to visit Fort Clatsop. It was a brief visit with the ghosts of the history that made us – “US”. But that is a story for another time. We pressed on at about 7 pm.
The GPS began to go a little haywire – or maybe it was its owner – or maybe it was telling me something. The GPS roads seemed out of sync with the street signs. It seemed I was heading inland instead of towards my battle. A bicyclist stopped to help. “Lost?” he panted. Well, we’re looking for the Astoria Bridge but can’t seem to find the way. I see a long bridge there…. “Oh, that’s not Astoria….” After some instructions I reprogrammed the GPS for points opposite the Oregon shore of the Columbia River. From then on, the GPS followed the cyclist’s instructions amazingly accurately. A couple of rotaries and a swing around a corner later – there it was.
The shock did not set in immediately and there was not time to think it over. As the light changed I led through – and onto “the ramp”. It is almost a shame I have no pictures of it but my beloved in the back seat was saving the start of the film for what she viewed as the start of the bridge – 200 feet in the air. But to be fair you need to envision 1500 pounds of man and machine and gear on seemingly a 45 degree angle headed for the sky – literally. The ramp doglegs left at the top so you get a sense of being on ramp to the clouds. About ¾ of the way up “this was a BAD idea” crossed my mind. Quickly followed by – “well, you can’t turn around now you dope – no room and WAY too dangerous”. So onward I pressed. While “up there” I managed to look upstream to see a small dot – that was a Cargo freighter heading up the Columbia – cool. And I managed to look towards the vastness of the Pacific Ocean – also cool. But I mostly looked straight ahead for now.
It is actually funny what can flash through your mind when under “fight or flight” type stress. My wife knew of my fear of heights prior to this moment – she never said a word. Anyone ever see the movie “The Replacements” – about a strike season football team picked to play out the season while the players and league settled their differences? Not the best movie – but one of my favorites anyway. There is a team meeting scene in the locker room where they talk about what scares them. Coach Jimmy McGinty (Gene Hackman) says “A real man admits his fears.” And after they all “share”…he says “… But now our fear is shared. And we can overcome it...together”. I gripped those handlebars with my Honey in tow (filming and giggling the whole way) and rode the monster – saying all the while “Face your fears, face your fears, face your fears…) - then the bottom fell out. Like an over loaded motorcycle on the Olympic ski jump we hurled towards the water.
Oddly – that is (or once was) my thing. A little speed and water. A former swimmer, rowing athlete, kayaker, water skier and salt water fly fisherman – water was my life. I always loved the water – no fear there. I went from 35mph on the 200 foot high span to 80 quickly – before I realized how fast I was going and backed off.
Then we skimmed the waterline for most of the rest of the length of the 4.1 mile long Astoria Bridge. That’s right – over four miles. Some internet research reveals that at the time of its completion in 1966 - it was the longest “Continuous Truss Bridge” in North America. I have been on the famous “Seven Mile Bridge” in the Florida Keys - also amazing for many other reasons. But this – was over a river, a vast expanse of river that meets the ocean – amazing. When I think of the Corps of Discovery flailing about – in canoes – I am in awe of what a sight it must have been. Maybe not to the Indian of the day – but rather to someone like me who has seen what water going vessels have become. Canoes across the continent without roads – can you imagine? These thoughts also cross my mind enroute.
Anyway, as we rode the waterline you could see halves of birds every so often in the pavement. Misjudging approaching vehicle speeds and wind currents over the bridge apparently happens only once for the fowl of the area. As we neared the Washington girders of the bridge I passed a seagull and laughed. Envisioning myself embroiled in a John Travolta/”Wild Hogs” scene of “eating crow” – LOL We turned at the light and headed east on the Washington shore of the Columbia. We were constantly in awe of the river – and I, smiling at my accomplishment. Facing my fear indeed was a kick. One I would face again later in full humor “Going to the Sun” in Glacier National Park.
Below is a 5+ minute video of our Astoria Bridge Crossing if you are interested in a “motorcycle view”. There is a lot of wind noise so you may want to have your speaker low or off.
Our Ride on Astoria Bridge:
[flash=425,344]http://www.youtube.com/v/LhMn0dYAgqs&hl=en&fs=1[/flash]
Astoria Bridge Pictures from the Internet
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I should have known. I had warnings. Cousin Jack had a tale on these very same pages which included a tale of him and his beloved Red crossing the high winded bridge over the waves below. But like a moth to a flame, I approached it. With a swagger and a meticulous planner’s nonchalance – it made sense to the ride plan and we would do it. I checked Google Maps MANY times after I made the plan - often switching to “satellite” view. Like a kid that just caught a snake in box, always peeking. Eager to come "in touch” with my decision, but wary of the consequences.
Why the trepidation? Those that suffer from a fear of heights will understand. Those that thrill to the floating pitches and jerks of roller coasters may understand. Those that have yet to travel my roads or have that remarkable fearlessness of heights in wide open space may not understand (like my wife) – they will love every minute and want to go back for more. Truth be told – in the end – I will go back one day for more as well. But, alas, we ran out of time for further thrills this ride. Once, was enough.
This particular ride came near the end of a day. We had checked out of Coos Bay, Oregon (about 232 miles south) in the morning and rode the foggy and cool Oregon coast. Many of our “sights” were unseen through fog. Others were phantasmagorical as we rode through fog banks and then crested hilltops to look over the fog once again. As we rode north the warnings of heat began to become reality. A day ridden mostly on the 50’s and cool started into the 70’s and humid.
Near the end of the Oregon coast we dipped in to visit Fort Clatsop. It was a brief visit with the ghosts of the history that made us – “US”. But that is a story for another time. We pressed on at about 7 pm.
The GPS began to go a little haywire – or maybe it was its owner – or maybe it was telling me something. The GPS roads seemed out of sync with the street signs. It seemed I was heading inland instead of towards my battle. A bicyclist stopped to help. “Lost?” he panted. Well, we’re looking for the Astoria Bridge but can’t seem to find the way. I see a long bridge there…. “Oh, that’s not Astoria….” After some instructions I reprogrammed the GPS for points opposite the Oregon shore of the Columbia River. From then on, the GPS followed the cyclist’s instructions amazingly accurately. A couple of rotaries and a swing around a corner later – there it was.
The shock did not set in immediately and there was not time to think it over. As the light changed I led through – and onto “the ramp”. It is almost a shame I have no pictures of it but my beloved in the back seat was saving the start of the film for what she viewed as the start of the bridge – 200 feet in the air. But to be fair you need to envision 1500 pounds of man and machine and gear on seemingly a 45 degree angle headed for the sky – literally. The ramp doglegs left at the top so you get a sense of being on ramp to the clouds. About ¾ of the way up “this was a BAD idea” crossed my mind. Quickly followed by – “well, you can’t turn around now you dope – no room and WAY too dangerous”. So onward I pressed. While “up there” I managed to look upstream to see a small dot – that was a Cargo freighter heading up the Columbia – cool. And I managed to look towards the vastness of the Pacific Ocean – also cool. But I mostly looked straight ahead for now.
It is actually funny what can flash through your mind when under “fight or flight” type stress. My wife knew of my fear of heights prior to this moment – she never said a word. Anyone ever see the movie “The Replacements” – about a strike season football team picked to play out the season while the players and league settled their differences? Not the best movie – but one of my favorites anyway. There is a team meeting scene in the locker room where they talk about what scares them. Coach Jimmy McGinty (Gene Hackman) says “A real man admits his fears.” And after they all “share”…he says “… But now our fear is shared. And we can overcome it...together”. I gripped those handlebars with my Honey in tow (filming and giggling the whole way) and rode the monster – saying all the while “Face your fears, face your fears, face your fears…) - then the bottom fell out. Like an over loaded motorcycle on the Olympic ski jump we hurled towards the water.
Oddly – that is (or once was) my thing. A little speed and water. A former swimmer, rowing athlete, kayaker, water skier and salt water fly fisherman – water was my life. I always loved the water – no fear there. I went from 35mph on the 200 foot high span to 80 quickly – before I realized how fast I was going and backed off.
Then we skimmed the waterline for most of the rest of the length of the 4.1 mile long Astoria Bridge. That’s right – over four miles. Some internet research reveals that at the time of its completion in 1966 - it was the longest “Continuous Truss Bridge” in North America. I have been on the famous “Seven Mile Bridge” in the Florida Keys - also amazing for many other reasons. But this – was over a river, a vast expanse of river that meets the ocean – amazing. When I think of the Corps of Discovery flailing about – in canoes – I am in awe of what a sight it must have been. Maybe not to the Indian of the day – but rather to someone like me who has seen what water going vessels have become. Canoes across the continent without roads – can you imagine? These thoughts also cross my mind enroute.
Anyway, as we rode the waterline you could see halves of birds every so often in the pavement. Misjudging approaching vehicle speeds and wind currents over the bridge apparently happens only once for the fowl of the area. As we neared the Washington girders of the bridge I passed a seagull and laughed. Envisioning myself embroiled in a John Travolta/”Wild Hogs” scene of “eating crow” – LOL We turned at the light and headed east on the Washington shore of the Columbia. We were constantly in awe of the river – and I, smiling at my accomplishment. Facing my fear indeed was a kick. One I would face again later in full humor “Going to the Sun” in Glacier National Park.
Below is a 5+ minute video of our Astoria Bridge Crossing if you are interested in a “motorcycle view”. There is a lot of wind noise so you may want to have your speaker low or off.
Our Ride on Astoria Bridge:
[flash=425,344]http://www.youtube.com/v/LhMn0dYAgqs&hl=en&fs=1[/flash]
Astoria Bridge Pictures from the Internet
