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I understand that a 1500 final drive can be used to replace that of a 1200 and was wondering what mods need to be made and if the wheel for the 1500 can and should be used in the swap. The dampers and or wheel bearings are what I believe to be the problem. I am getting a burning rubber smell on the twistees but am fine on straight road. :?If this is indeed the case it is my understanding that the 1500 wheel is the more durable of the two and as I plan to have "Bes" around for awhile I thought it might be to my advantage to use the 1500 wheel. I'm aware there are some differences in the disc and such but don't know what if anything can be done to make everything work out. Any help greatly appreciated:stumped:
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Burning rubber smell? What's rubbing?

This would indicate there is something loose but it wouldn't be in the final drive. With so few miles it's most likely just the axle nut.
 

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Possibly a bearing getting too much play or just the axle needs to be retorqued.
 

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I think the tire is rubbing the drive shaft tube
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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If the tire is the correct size (150/90-15) then the wheel has to be REAL loose for that tire to rub anything. Is it making noise?

Pull the bags, get down on the ground and find out exactly what is rubbing and why.

You may be racing to the hospital.
 

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There used to be a couple of good pictorials online showing how to swap an 1500 final drive into a 1200. I can't seem to find them anymore though. Basically it seemed to require enlarging the holes where the final bolts onto the swingarm and some grinding on the 1500 caliper bracket. You'll need the final drive, wheel and flange and caliper and caliper mounting bracketfrom a 1500for the job. At least that's what I remember from the pictorial that used to be kicking around. Unfortunately the link on the A-Z index on the swap posted by Vic is no longer functional.

Anyone have a link or a copy of that modification they can post?
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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The pictorial tutorial on how to do the job has vanished. The web host is coming up with 404 errors. That saddens me. It was a terrific job of explaining what has to be done. I managed to find the following text from some isolated posts scattered around the internet.

============================================================

Rebuilding a GL1200 rear end with GL1500 parts

By CrystalPistol
http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1226&view=previous

Nice thing about the 1500 rear drive and wheel set up is that you get that double inner wheel bearing surrounded by lots more aluminum ... that you don't get with the 1200 wheel.

The 1500 and 1200 use the same rear caliper, but you need the brakets and stuff with the 1500 wheel and final as the 1500 has a larger diameter rear brake rotor, hence more leverage for the rear brake, hence greater rear stopping power at same pefdal pressure. Something to consider when two up with a load and a trailer.

I have a whole setup I purchased complete with new rear tire after the prior owner triked his 1500 just after he purchased the bike. $125 including everything. As soon as I need to replace the rear tire on the 1200, I'll replace it all.

Oh yeah, must drill out 4 holes in swingarm just a tad to fit the 1500 rear with larger studs. There is also a Avon Venom rear tire that is slightly lower profile, something like 160/70-16 I think it was, that is near the same overall diameter of the 150/90-15 (MV85/15) 1200 rear tire. Also, there are some minor mods needed to the 1500 rear caliper braket.
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By CrystalPistol

Just to expand, I ran across this tidbit I saved and thought I'ld share here ....

Here is a link to a great page devoted to this very swap of a 1500 final drive and wheel into / under a 1200.

As to rear tires, etc ...The 1500's rear gear ratio is the same. The rim diameter is 1" larger but a shorter 150/80-16 rear tire (in place of 1500 size 160/80-16) is said to bring overall diameter back down to near the same as the stock 1200's rear tire (a 150/90-15), use the 150/80-16 "Venom X". The tire is actually slightly narrower that the OEM 160/80-16 Dunlop, but has a load rating of 908 lbs.


A 160/80-16 is near 26.07" OA Diameter (stock 1500 size)

A 150/80-16 is near 25.44" OA Diameter

A 150/90-15 is near 25.62" OA Diameter (a 1200 size)

A 150/85-15 is near 25.04" OA Diameter (also a 1200 size)

Note the aspect ratios.

The 1500 rear wheel has a double race main weight carrying bearing in a more solid mounting than the single row one in the 1200 wheel that tends to wobble out the weakly reinforced mounting ring in the 1200 wheel (It's not the 1200 bearing that spins, it's the pounding of the heavy bike and the fact that the rear bearing is carrying most of the weight on this one bearing nearest the center of the wheel that pounds out the weakly re-inforced aluminum area where the bearing mounts in the wheel).

The 1500 rear wheel arangement comes with a larger diameter rear brake rotor which greatly increases rear braking, even though pad and caliper is the same as effective leverage is increased.

The 1500 rear uses slightly larger bolts to attach to the swingarm.

I have a whole 1500 final drive with brake, axle, caliper mount, wheel, and new tire, etc ... all ready to go in my 1200 next tire change myself just for these reasons.
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Thanks guys, this is exactly what I was looking for. That's what makes this such a great site. I have never failed to recieve great info from you guys, thanks again. As soon as I find a drive unit and wear down the rear a little more I'll be making the swap.
 

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Found this on the way back machine.

Sorry no pictures.

____________________________
GL1200A Rear End Rebuild

The Problem

The tag end of 2003, we started noticing noise in the drive line of our 1986 Aspencade.

It turned out that the inboard bearing had spun in the rear wheel, and had wallowed out the
aluminum hub. This is not a good thing to have happen, as the wheel is not generally considered repairable and the replacement parts from "Big Red" are quite expensive.

The Cure

Having heard through several grapevines that the final drive from a 1500 would fit the 1200, and that the rear wheel from the 1500 should fit, I decided to try this solution.

Three minor modifications were necessary, the four holes in the rear end of the 1200 driveshaft housing need to be drilled to match the larger size studs found on the 1500 drive.
Also you have to mill or grind the strut for the 1500 brake caliper mount to allow it to fit in the 1200. Third modification is to grind the end of the left lower shock absorber stud to allow the insertion of the stud and prevent contacting/damaging the rear rotor.

The single spacer from the 1500 is used in place of the dual spacers from the 1200.

The rear tire is actually better centered than with the original 1200 setup.

With the expertise of fellow "Winger" Bob Hitch, and some help from me, and the changeover was completed.

Problems

Problem #1: As the Avon of choice (160/80 B16) is 0.3 inches wider at the shoulder and 0.4 inches greater radius than the OEM Dunlop when properly inflated, there arises a possible conflict of interest with the rear fender,

The primary point of contact is at the top of the fender on the left side.

When riding solo, you will probably get away with no to low pressure in the rear shocks.

When riding two up, depending on the weight of both the rider and the passenger, you may need to run maximum allowable pressure in the rear shocks.

The above listed potential problem can be avoided by using Avon's 150/80 B16 77 H Venom X.
The 150/80 B16 77 H Venom X is rated at 908 lbs., and is 0.7 inches narrower than the 160/80 tire.

Problem #2: Unknown and unseen at the time of assembly by either Bob or myself, the original rear brake hose had enough slack between the front connection point and the factory supplied clamp that it had developed a bend in the direction of the tire. The 160/80-16 Avon "Venom" was wide enough to contact the brake hose, and it took about 200 miles to wear through.
Fortunately, we were not in an emergency situation when we lost the rear and one front rotor braking, and were able to proceed with caution the last few miles home.

This was fixed when installing a new hose, by using two heavy duty Panduit straps (zip ties) to anchor the hose to the top of the swingarm in front of the factory supplied clamp assembly.

Note: The factory supplied clamp assembly may have to be slid approximately 0.25 inch towards the front connector.

Since the modifications, my wife and I have put over 7000 miles on the bike, and have had no additional complaints.

Riding two up with the increased tire size and the GL1500 rear rotor, the braking is incredible!

Note: If total weight of passengers exceeds 420 lbs., you will not be able to use the 160/80-16 "Venom X" tire as it will rub on the left side at the top regardless of pressure in rear shocks.

Instead, use the 150/80-16 "Venom X". The tire is actually slightly narrower that the OEM Dunlop, but has a load rating of 908 lbs.

The boss on the right is for the axle, and is not modified.
The one on the left, is for the left shock absorber lower bolt, and needs to be milled or ground to approximately 0.510 inches to fit into the 1200.
Note that all grinding is done on the side away from the wheel.
Also note the partial grinding of the strut webs.
The grinding on the webs of the strut is necessary to allow the strut to rotate into its final position without springing the rear swingarm assembly.
If you don't properly grind these webs, the strut will twist from its proper position also twisting the rear brake caliper causing rapid wear of the brake pads and destruction of the rotor.
Closeup view of the reworked areas.
View from bottom of caliper strut showing in detail the reworked areas.
Note that the original caliper does not have to be removed from the system as the 1200 and 1500 use the same rear caliper

Since the recommended Dunlop "Elite II 491" 160/80B16 for the 1500 has a load rating of only 853 lbs. @ 41 psi, I chose to replace this with the Avon "Venom X" 160/80 B16 TL with a load rating of 1019 lbs. @ 49 psi. We also use the matching "Venom X" tire on the front wheel in the appropriate size for the 1200.

This tire fits well into the rear swingarm assembly, and greatly increases the loaded safety factor when riding two up and pulling a trailer.

For those of you with unmodified 1200's, consider these rating facts.

The GL1200A, with 2 well fed riders, saddle bags and trunk loaded, and pulling a trailer with cooler chest on the drawbar can approach 900 lbs. loading on the rear tire. This does not leave much of a safety margin with an OEM tire on a stock bike, and exceeds the tire rating of the OEM tire for a GL1500.

The Dunlop "Elite II 491" MV85B15, has a load rating of 910 lbs. maximum @ 41 psi., and the Avon "Venom X" 150/90 B15 TL has a load rating of 993 lbs @ 49 psi.

In all cases, you will find that the Avon's not only give superior road life expectancy, but greater traction and far less "trolley tracking" on grooved pavement and open steel deck bridges.
Additional photos below text

The camera saw it, but we didn't.
Make sure that the brake line to the rear caliper is strapped to the top of the swing arm with at least one heavy duty zip tie.

If the hose contacts the side of the tire, you will lose two out of three calipers for stopping until you replace the line.

Note the size of the rotor.
Use the foot brake with caution when riding one up, as there is tremendous stopping power with a 315 mm. rotor.

There is an indentation at the top of the rear fender that will rub on the side of the tire when riding two up if you do not inflate the rear shocks sufficiently.

Make sure that the caliper support strut pivots freely into place.

This is why you have to grind the strut webs as well as thinning down the anchor boss.

Any binding along the side of the swing arm will cause twisting which will cause rapid wear of the pads and rotor.

Approximately 3/16 inch needs to be ground off the tapered end of the lower shock bolt to prevent contact with the rotor.

GL1500 final drive and rear wheel in place.
A lot less modification than mixing 1200 & 1500 parts.

That's 6.6 inches of tire width stuffed into a 1986 GL1200A.
 

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I don't even own a complete Honda anymore, but for a project I am working on this forum has been a gold(Wing) mine! This thread is just one example!

I am using an '84 GL1200 final drive to replace a lower ratio final drive on my '85 Kawasaki Voyager. Would I be better off using the GL1500's final drive, rear wheel, etc. for this swap? Sounds like a more robust wheel/bearing design. Anybody know FOR SURE what the gear ratio is in the 1500's final drive?
 

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I don't even own a complete Honda anymore, but for a project I am working on this forum has been a gold(Wing) mine! This thread is just one example!

I am using an '84 GL1200 final drive to replace a lower ratio final drive on my '85 Kawasaki Voyager.
Innovative Swap ....

Good Luck!
;)
 

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How do I find out if I have a 1500 final drive without taking it all apart? I was told late last night that the PO had done the swap. And I am wanting to see if it's true. So far I've been lied to about most of the bike. Thank you in advance.






Jeff
 

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Just Winging It
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How do I find out if I have a 1500 final drive without taking it all apart? I was told late last night that the PO had done the swap. And I am wanting to see if it's true. So far I've been lied to about most of the bike. Thank you in advance.






Jeff

Tire size 1200 has a 15" and 1500 has a 16" tire.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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How do I find out if I have a 1500 final drive without taking it all apart? I was told late last night that the PO had done the swap. And I am wanting to see if it's true. So far I've been lied to about most of the bike. Thank you in advance.
Jeff
Just step back and look at the wheels. If they are different...
 
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