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Did the first oil change since getting the GW Motortrike today. Had a few issues.

Got underneath with the oil catch pan and took the oil plug bolt out, and found no sealing washer.:stumped: Didn't leak a drop without one, but I feel better having picked one up along with the filter. While the oil was draining, I took the plastic off. The oil stopped running out before all the covering was removed. To make sure I went and had lunch, then came back to the task. Moved the catch pan below the filter to trap any oil when the filter came off - pulled the filter and a bunch more oil came out of the oil drain hole! What the heck!!? Where did that come from? Sopped that up and cleaned the floor with a liberal amount of Simple Green to prevent an(other) oil spot on the garage floor. New filter on and torqued to spec according to the factory manual, drain plug (with new washer) in and oil in. Ran the trike for a few minutes, checked the oil after oil had time to settle and it was right on the dipstick full mark.

Put back the plastic on the right side and went to drain the hoses on the left side. They are a bit discolored brown, and I couldn't tell if there was anything in them. Held the first one over a jar to catch anything that came out. Nothing did, and it seemed clear when I blew through it to check it wasn't blocked. The plug didn't come out as easily on the other hose, and when it did, it sort of came off with a jerk and spewed brownish fluid on my boots, hands and a towel on the floor. Didn't get a drop in the jar. So what is that stuff? Watery brownish fluid smelling slightly of gas. Ish!

Buttoned up the plastic on the left side, went for a nice short ride and checked the oil again. Right on the money. Cool. Had to make sure the oil was well distributed, so another (longer) ride was in order. Always feels good to work on the bikes- not really mine unless I wrench on them!
 

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Me thinks you've found the drain for the crank-case blow-by canister. If you do a lot of wet weather driving it may require more frequent draining. Welcome to the "World of Wings"..... :gunhead:
 

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Well done Don. The extra oil probably came out because when you pulled the filter it vented the engine more. This is especially true if you had left the filler cap fitted.
 

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There is always a bit of oil left in the engine, that's why Honda list the oil change quantity as less than filling after a rebuild. Most of the trapped oil is at the back of the engine and there is a second oil pump in the engine for retrieving it.
 

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... My Clymers Manual actually  recommends turning the Kill switch,and spinning the engine  several times for just a few seconds/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif  while waiting the 20 minutes for all the oil to drain...(do NOT want it to start  with no oil/forums/images/emoticons/cool.gif !!!!)............... Oil is the cheapest of all the things you can do for your bike.  I screw in the drain,  leave the old filter in for a second, usually add a half quart of cheap, no additive oil ($1,  usually 30 wt /forums/images/emoticons/big_grin.gif), and spin her around  to rinse out the last bit  bit  of sludge.. Then its a New filter, and the correct oil (Rotella -T  for me/forums/images/emoticons/wink.gif ) SilverDave/forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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Another way to do this without spinning the engine while dry is to park in on a sloping surface (or just chock the front wheel and put a bit of wood under the back wheel and pull the rear up a bit, then wedging the wood in position). That will allow the oil from the back of the engine to drain toward the front and into your container.
 

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By his avatar it looks like Ozarkryder has a trike. Since it doesn't have a center stand to raise up the rear end during an oil change it might trap more oil. Budegan has the right idea, run the rear wheels up on some blocks, raise it three inches above normal or so that more oil ought to drain out. Kitty litter is a great absorber of oops when working on vehicles.
 

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I see where folks are using Rotella - T and some mention buying it from "Wally World"

OK folks, now for the dumb question.

What the heck is Wally World?? AKA Wal-Mart or am I all wet?

Thanks, Rick
 

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toy4rick wrote:
I see where folks are using Rotella - T and some mention buying it from "Wally World"

OK folks, now for the dumb question.

What the heck is Wally World?? AKA Wal-Mart or am I all wet?

Thanks, Rick
You got it right Rick!:waving:In fact I was just at Wally World today and picked up a gallon of Rotella T. Cost $13.82 plus tax here. Thought I'd change the oil in the silent six before taking off this weekend for a ten day ride.
 

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 I have also found Rotella T at a nearby  Truck speciality shop  (in the industrial section)...and thats good... since Canadian WalMarts seemed to  have stopped supplying Rotella, and  Mobile 1 as well... This truck shop sales lady offered to get me an even better price on any synthetic I wanted... as long as I ordered a box of 6 ....... oh . ok I said ... How much ..? "Only $140.00"/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif... gasp.. turns out that truckers order it in cases, of gallon jugs  not of quarts /forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif... hmmm.. Think I will need  about 3 friends that also wanna put Synthetic in their bikes at the same time... SilverDave /forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif
 

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/forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif
 

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SilverDave wrote:
truck shop sales lady offered to get me an even better price on any synthetic I wanted... as long as I ordered a box of 6 ....... oh . ok I said ... How much ..? "Only $140.00"/forums/images/emoticons/shock.gif... gasp.. turns out that truckers order it in cases, of gallon jugs not of quarts /forums/images/emoticons/mad.gif
Yeah, I've been buying 6 gallon cases of Delo for years for my truck, I get two changes out of it. I have been using Delo in my bike but thought I'd give the Rotella T a shot to see if the noises change any. If not it will go back to good old Delo dino oil.
 

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exavid wrote:
Yeah, I've been buying 6 gallon cases of Delo for years for my truck, I get two changes out of it. I have been using Delo in my bike but thought I'd give the Rotella T a shot to see if the noises change any. If not it will go back to good old Delo dino oil.
Exavid, all the bikes I have put the Rotella T synthetic in have increased noise slightly. That is a very good oil with great additive package but tends to run to the thin side of the viscosity ratings. That Delo is also a very good oil & a lot of large truck fleets have had very good results using it. Some have switched over to the Rotella T synthetic to try & pick up a little more MPG & few thousand more miles between changes. If Rotella T synthetic ever comes in a 15 or 20W50 configuration it will be a great choice for quality VS price.

Twisty
 

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You're probably right about the noise. When I got the Rotella I hesitated because of the viscosity rating but though I'd give it a try anyway. I've used Delo in lots of machinery, mostly because I used to have it around in drums. I kinda figured that if it could stand the pounding in diesel bearings it probably would work okay in most anything, not scientific by a long shot, but I've never had any engine failures due to oil.
 

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exavid wrote:
You're probably right about the noise. When I got the Rotella I hesitated because of the viscosity rating but though I'd give it a try anyway. I've used Delo in lots of machinery, mostly because I used to have it around in drums. I kinda figured that if it could stand the pounding in diesel bearings it probably would work okay in most anything, not scientific by a long shot, but I've never had any engine failures due to oil.
Exavid, you are correct in your thinking on a diesel rated oil. That usually starts with a better base stock & has a far better anti-acid & anti wear additive package than the automotive & even some motorcycle oils.

Do to the more uniform size of oil molecules in the synthetic oil's (even the group 3 oils like the Rotella synthetic) they flow much easier both hot & cold so it helps to go up a viscosity range when going to a full synthetic.

Synthetic oils can & do reduce engine noise is some circumstances but that is not the synthetic formula that does it but rather the much better anti-shear characteristics so the oil stays at a higher viscosity for lots more miles & because of the increased flowability allows a thicker oil to be used even in colder climates (15W50 or 20W50 is a good synthetic oil for the Wings).. Do to the better flow & tighter aranged molecules ofa synthetic oil the oil carries away more heat than conventional dinooil so there is usually a noted reduction in engine internal operating temperature & that also helps reduce oil thinning & engine noise.

That Rotella synthetic in a 20W50 would be a great motorcycle oil for the price (I wonder when or if it will happen?)

Twisty
 
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