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Discussion Starter #21
I see you are from Scandinavia, what part do you do your driving in? I've never been there but in the Pacific NW part of the USA, on the coast we get a lot of rain and the terrain is hilly to mountainous. Our roads have a lot of curves and we have a lot of hills to negotiate. For me, the most important thing for wet riding is tires and it is more important than rain gear. I try to use soft rubber tires with a tread pattern that will move the water out from under the tire's contact patch. The other thing is to slow down and maintain extended room from the traffic. You will need additional stopping room. If you ride frequently in the rain I suggest practicing stopping in the wet from about 30 MPH. That will give you a feel for your bike's traction. I ride a 1972 CB450 and a 10985 GL1200. I prefer the GL in the wet. It just feels more stable and planted in the wet.
Hey, sorry I've been moving the last week and havent had much time online... Im in Norway. Mainly riding around Bergen, one of the rainiest cities in europe I believe.Sounds similiar to PNW. I think Seattle is a sister city to Bergen actually :)

Will definitely get out and test out some braking when I have time. Have only had the bike a month now and although I've been riding everyday, it's mainly to and from work or in between cities. Hopefully I'll get some free time soon so I can take it up into the the mountains around here and push it a little to get more used to the braking and handling. Interesting that you prefer the GL to the CB. Ive had an 82 CB400 before and a 69 CL350. Both were so small I felt the brakes and more so the engine braking were adequate. Here I notice the engine braking is really minimal and find myself using the actual brakes more.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
In my youth I was a year round rider and ran metzelers on the 1100. In the wet they are confidence inspiring. The rear would last for about 6,000 miles. Now I'm old (65) and ride mostly during fair weather. The 1200I has Michelin Commander II. They have been in the wet a couple of times and work OK. I haven't pushed them like I did back in the day.
Im pretty sure theres Metzelers on there now. Atleast one of them. Maybe it was the rear...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I want you to try sour tires either with Dyna beads or Air soft BB's... This is a life saver at higher speeds. Ok, enough rambling good luck.
Hey, cheers for the write up. I am counter-steering already, but I will double check the tyres are balanced ok :) As for scraping, every cruiser Ive had will scrape going around a roundabout or through corners. I thought they were designed like that? By that I mean, that the peg or floorboard that flips up is the first thing to scrape and acts as a warning.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Re-learned a lesson on the 1000 yesterday. Anything that might reduce traction is greatly multiplied by moisture. On ramps and exit to highway near truck stop? Over-filled diesel and rain might as well be ice. Leaves? Wet leaves slip on each other, not jyst under your tires. Moss, mold (other things that make the road green colored)? Bit me yesterday coasting down our (quite steep and long) straight concrete drive. Yes, drop (at least) 25% below normal speed for curves, but some things might best be avoided when wet if you would avoid them on ice. I'll be taking my other drive that gets sun and doesn't grow green slime.
Leaves are the worst! easier to see than oil sometimes though, but I remember vividly when I first started riding going around a corner and nearly losing it over a bunch of packed down leaves...
 

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I want you to try something and practice it when you can like out joy riding. I push the handle bar the direction i want to go I know it seems crazy but iI was taught this in a advanced riding class..
Counter steering I believe the term is, like kicking the tire out from under the bike, it will tighten your line.
 
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