Flashers and brakes 83 gl100

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For the brake lights check the adjustment on the switch , there should be a spring from the brake pedal to the switch near the rear master . Also check the front brake handle , there is a micro switch on the handle bars which also operates the brake lights . That switch could be stuck . Might be asimple test to unplug the switches one at a time and see which one is causing the light to be on .



The turn signals have a "Winker Cancel Unit" under the faux tank . It is operated by the" Angle Sensor" ,located on the bottom of the steering stem . It is also operated bya "Speed Sensor" signal from the speedometer head . So once you turn the handle bars and straighten back out they should cancel ( as in turning at a stop sign ) or they should cancel by a speed signal ( as in passing a car where you dont turn far enough for the angle sensor to cause a cancel .



If your turn signals are blinking fine , the flasher is good . Could be the Winker Cancel unit is bad or both sensor inputs are bad . Does your speedometer work ?

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As for the turn lights find the flesher unit and check if the wires are connected properly. Possible the flesher unit isbad (contact stuck 'on') or maybe someone bypassed the unit and connected the wires directly through the switch (which would probably mean a broken unit as well). As for the brake light staying on I guess thatone of two switches is stuck 'on' or maybe the wires (which go to the switch) are shorted. There should be a hydraulic switch for front brake locatedon the front forks and a mechanical switch for the rear brake located next to the pedal (at least this isvalidforGL1000, I'm not sure about 1100s!). Andthe rear brakes not working, asthere is no fluid comming to the calipersI would suspect the master cylinder/piston problem. You said you rebuilt it, are you sure that everything is put back properly (especially the seals) and that there are no cloged passages in there?



Just my 2 cents, other members with more experience will help more! Good luck


P.S. Onawingandaprayer alredyresponded while I was typing! :waving:

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1. If you're saying that the turn signals don't turn off by themselves or the (auto-cancel) is not working then check the manual and run the tests it prescribes to diagnosis and fix the problem. There are two auto-cancel methods. The first is a sensor called the "Bank Angle Sensor". It doesn't measure how far you lean the bike but how far you turn the handlebars. It will turn off the signals if you're moving and turn the bars enough as you round a corner. If you simply lean the bike to round the corner and don't turn the bars the signals will not cancel. I find that my signals very rarely cancel from this sensor. The next sensor is a travel sensor. If the signals are on and you're moving in a straight line then after about 100 yards the system will turn them off. This is what turns mine off virtually all the time.



2. If your brake light is on all the time then a switch is broken or needs adjustment. The grip switch cannot be adjusted. As you squeeze the bar you should hear it click. The manual will tell you how to test and adjust the swithes.



3. The foot brake is integrated. The master cylinder pumps fluid directly to the front and to the back through a proportioning valve. As others have said bleed the front brake first and then the rear. If you take the front caliper off and remove the brake hose from the hose holders you can hold it up to help push the air out. Be sure to put a piece of wood between the brake pads or you'll push the pistons out and have a big mess. One you get all the air out of the frontyou should be able to push fluid to the rear. If you can't then remove the hose that attaches to the rear caliper and check for blockage. If you still can't push fluid out then you'll have to service the proportioning valve.



Let us know how it goes. LOL!!!

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cj76 wrote:

The front brakes are allready bled.

Click to expand...

The right caliper, as you sit on the bike, is connected to the foot pedal and is integrated to the rear caliper. Are you able to bleed this caliper with the foot pedal?



If not, you might check to make sure the adjustment between the pedal and the rear master cylinder is correct. If the plunger is not coming all the way back, the rubber diaphragm cannot get new fluid to pump out to the calipers. Also, just another thought, hopefully you installed the rubber diaphragm inside the rear master cylinder the correct direction. If installed backwards fluidwill notbe pumped.



Another idea, we had this on the 1983, check the bleeder valve and bottom of the hole going into the calipers and make sureboth areopen.



Everything else being correct, you may have a brake line crushed or stopped up. The easiest to check is remove the line from the calipers and see if you can pump fluid with the pedal. Be sure to use the correct wrench made for brake lines, slot in the end. The lines can be a b***h to work with. On my 1983 we had to remove a line to get a new nut put on the end. PO had used vise grips on the nut at the master cylinder.



There is a very small bleeder hole for the return fluid in the master cylinder. I would doubt you could pump fluid back from the calipers.

Link to see your lines and the proportioning valve: #15 is proportioning valve; #2 to rear master cylinder; #3 to front brake caliper; #4 to rear brake caliper.
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=145767&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1983&fveh=3436

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Hi CJ76,



As far as your brake lights go it may be switch / dirt related. I was having problems with mine and removed, took apart and cleaned them both (and fixed one). Problems solved. It's easy to do.

Try this link



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/77418.html



I hope it helps,

Tim.