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I finally am going to try and fix my turn signals because I am tired of moving the switch back and forth manually? Does this mean that my flasher unit is bad or is it something else? Also my brake light has been stuck on, what could cause this? I know the rear breaks are not working since I have not been able to bleed them due to the fact that the fluid is not pumping past the cylinder. I just recently rebuilt it and it seems like the foot pedal is moves good now but I can not get the fluid to the the rear caliper. Would this cause the brake light to stay on or could it be something else? Can anyone give me any advise as to how to get the fluid to the rear calipers? I have tried using a bleeder pump and tried to suck the fluid back to the calipers but that does not seem to be working. I am finally realizing how unsafe it is to ride without brake lights, turn signals, and rear brakes. This is a lot of bike to stop with just one front brake. Please help!!
 

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For the brake lights check the adjustment on the switch , there should be a spring from the brake pedal to the switch near the rear master . Also check the front brake handle , there is a micro switch on the handle bars which also operates the brake lights . That switch could be stuck . Might be asimple test to unplug the switches one at a time and see which one is causing the light to be on .



The turn signals have a "Winker Cancel Unit" under the faux tank . It is operated by the" Angle Sensor" ,located on the bottom of the steering stem . It is also operated bya "Speed Sensor" signal from the speedometer head . So once you turn the handle bars and straighten back out they should cancel ( as in turning at a stop sign ) or they should cancel by a speed signal ( as in passing a car where you dont turn far enough for the angle sensor to cause a cancel .



If your turn signals are blinking fine , the flasher is good . Could be the Winker Cancel unit is bad or both sensor inputs are bad . Does your speedometer work ?
 

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As for the turn lights find the flesher unit and check if the wires are connected properly. Possible the flesher unit isbad (contact stuck 'on') or maybe someone bypassed the unit and connected the wires directly through the switch (which would probably mean a broken unit as well). As for the brake light staying on I guess thatone of two switches is stuck 'on' or maybe the wires (which go to the switch) are shorted. There should be a hydraulic switch for front brake locatedon the front forks and a mechanical switch for the rear brake located next to the pedal (at least this isvalidforGL1000, I'm not sure about 1100s!). Andthe rear brakes not working, asthere is no fluid comming to the calipersI would suspect the master cylinder/piston problem. You said you rebuilt it, are you sure that everything is put back properly (especially the seals) and that there are no cloged passages in there?



Just my 2 cents, other members with more experience will help more! Good luck


P.S. Onawingandaprayer alredyresponded while I was typing! :waving:
 

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83 1100 has a linked brake system. You bleed the front linked brake first, then the rear. Check manual for which one is the front linked to the rear. Also crack the banjo bolt on the rear caliper and see if you get fluid there.
 

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Opps I forgot about the brake problem :cheeky1:. Yes your 83 has the Unified Brake System ( unless modified by a previous owner ) . In this system the right front caliper is connected to the rear brake master cylinder . As mentioned in previous post you bleed the front first then the rear . I'll go ahead and warn you , its a bear sometimes to get it all bled out and working . Just dont give up .
 

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Brake lights stay on; can't bleed rear brake. Have you checked to make sure the rear brake pedal is returning to the full up position? Rust/corrosion in the pivot pointof the real brake pedal can cause your problem.
You have to move the turn switch manually on and off to get blinking turn lights.Could be bad turn relay under the top compartment,left of the air box.
Justmy thoughts???



Surprised that someone didn't call me on this one. Edited to say left instead of right of the airbox.
 

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1. If you're saying that the turn signals don't turn off by themselves or the (auto-cancel) is not working then check the manual and run the tests it prescribes to diagnosis and fix the problem. There are two auto-cancel methods. The first is a sensor called the "Bank Angle Sensor". It doesn't measure how far you lean the bike but how far you turn the handlebars. It will turn off the signals if you're moving and turn the bars enough as you round a corner. If you simply lean the bike to round the corner and don't turn the bars the signals will not cancel. I find that my signals very rarely cancel from this sensor. The next sensor is a travel sensor. If the signals are on and you're moving in a straight line then after about 100 yards the system will turn them off. This is what turns mine off virtually all the time.



2. If your brake light is on all the time then a switch is broken or needs adjustment. The grip switch cannot be adjusted. As you squeeze the bar you should hear it click. The manual will tell you how to test and adjust the swithes.



3. The foot brake is integrated. The master cylinder pumps fluid directly to the front and to the back through a proportioning valve. As others have said bleed the front brake first and then the rear. If you take the front caliper off and remove the brake hose from the hose holders you can hold it up to help push the air out. Be sure to put a piece of wood between the brake pads or you'll push the pistons out and have a big mess. One you get all the air out of the frontyou should be able to push fluid to the rear. If you can't then remove the hose that attaches to the rear caliper and check for blockage. If you still can't push fluid out then you'll have to service the proportioning valve.



Let us know how it goes. LOL!!!
 

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a word of caution on the proportioning valve--- it is not servicable---in other words--- dont take it apart-- maybe flush it out if its pluged up -- but thats about it. its listed as a NONserviceable item--and not avaible from honda any more.
note--you will flush it out when you bleed the brakes. hope this helps some.
 

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Flasher unit is probably bad, since it does not blink. As for the brakes I will check the switches tomorrow for the brake lights. As for the rebuild I made sure all of the passages were clear and really cleaned everything well. Can I pump fluid backwards from the calipers to the master cylinder? I have heard what a nightmare this can be and I am starting to experience it for myself. The front brakes are allready bled.
 

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cj76 wrote:
The front brakes are allready bled.
The right caliper, as you sit on the bike, is connected to the foot pedal and is integrated to the rear caliper. Are you able to bleed this caliper with the foot pedal?



If not, you might check to make sure the adjustment between the pedal and the rear master cylinder is correct. If the plunger is not coming all the way back, the rubber diaphragm cannot get new fluid to pump out to the calipers. Also, just another thought, hopefully you installed the rubber diaphragm inside the rear master cylinder the correct direction. If installed backwards fluidwill notbe pumped.



Another idea, we had this on the 1983, check the bleeder valve and bottom of the hole going into the calipers and make sureboth areopen.



Everything else being correct, you may have a brake line crushed or stopped up. The easiest to check is remove the line from the calipers and see if you can pump fluid with the pedal. Be sure to use the correct wrench made for brake lines, slot in the end. The lines can be a b***h to work with. On my 1983 we had to remove a line to get a new nut put on the end. PO had used vise grips on the nut at the master cylinder.



There is a very small bleeder hole for the return fluid in the master cylinder. I would doubt you could pump fluid back from the calipers.

Link to see your lines and the proportioning valve: #15 is proportioning valve; #2 to rear master cylinder; #3 to front brake caliper; #4 to rear brake caliper.
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=145767&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1983&fveh=3436
 

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cj76 wrote:
Flasher unit is probably bad, since it does not blink.
A flasher unit that will work, available at auto parts stores,and is cheaper than OEM is:

GL 1100 Turn Flasher, Tridon Stant EP 28

It will work with LED bulbs also. You will have to make up some spade connectors but it will mount in the same rubber boot that the OEM is in now.
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
cj76 wrote:
Flasher unit is probably bad, since it does not blink.
A flasher unit that will work, available at auto parts stores,and is cheaper than OEM is:

GL 1100 Turn Flasher, Tridon Stant EP 28

It will work with LED bulbs also. You will have to make up some spade connectors but it will mount in the same rubber boot that the OEM is in now.
:waving:The connectorfor the turn signal relay/flasher unit is not compatiable with an automotive flasher. The relay/flasher unit on the '83 GoldWing which is also usedon the GL1200 is different than the ones on the '80-'82 GoldWings. Image below is the original OEM unit from my '83 Interstate. I had turn signal problems and replaced the original unit with a new Honda turn signal relay/flasher which solved my problems. Part number for the new improved unit is: 38301-MG9-681 and they arent't that expensive. I purchased minefrom a dealer in the Seattle area and the cost was $34.42 before tax.

 

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cj76 wrote:
Can anyone give me any advise as to how to get the fluid to the rear calipers? I have tried using a bleeder pump and tried to suck the fluid back to the calipers but that does not seem to be working. I am finally realizing how unsafe it is to ride without brake lights, turn signals, and rear brakes. This is a lot of bike to stop with just one front brake. Please help!!
:waving:Possibly there is a blockage in the rubber brake linegoing to the rear caliper. I had this problem on my '83 Interstate awhile back and removedthe rubber linefrom where it attaches to the steel line on the L/H side of the bike. Once the blockage was cleared I reinstalled the rubber brake line and ran fluid throug it before I reconnected the bango fitting to the rear caliper. After bleeding the linked systemthe brakes have worked ever since with no problems.
 

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83GoldWinger wrote:
Wichita Scorpion wrote:
cj76 wrote:
Flasher unit is probably bad, since it does not blink.
A flasher unit that will work, available at auto parts stores,and is cheaper than OEM is:

GL 1100 Turn Flasher, Tridon Stant EP 28

It will work with LED bulbs also. You will have to make up some spade connectors but it will mount in the same rubber boot that the OEM is in now.
:waving:The connectorfor the turn signal relay/flasher unit is not compatiable with an automotive flasher. The relay/flasher unit on the '83 GoldWing which is also usedon the GL1200 is different than the ones on the '80-'82 GoldWings. Image below is the original OEM unit from my '83 Interstate. I had turn signal problems and replaced the original unit with a new Honda turn signal relay/flasher which solved my problems. Part number for the new improved unit is: 38301-MG9-681 and they arent't that expensive. I purchased minefrom a dealer in the Seattle area and the cost was $34.42 before tax.

I just suggested an option for cj76. I have the Tridon Stant EP 28 installed on my 1983 GL 1100 Aspencade. It will work for OEM blubs or LED bulbs. I have LED turn bulbs installed. The OEM relay will not work with LED bulbs. Like I said above, connections from the OEM Turn Siganl Relay wiring harness plug to the EP 28 will have to be made with spade connectors. I did not cut the OEM plug off, just made jumpers with spade connectors. The EP 28 is compatable, the connection is not. The EP 28 is a lot cheaper and works with LEDs.
 

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Hi CJ76,



As far as your brake lights go it may be switch / dirt related. I was having problems with mine and removed, took apart and cleaned them both (and fixed one). Problems solved. It's easy to do.

Try this link



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/77418.html



I hope it helps,

Tim.
 
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