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I have removed mine after I found out that to get a bent frame fixed was nearly impossible but the engine casings were reasonably easy to get hold of.



My logic was simple. I would rather replace the rocker covers and timing belt covers than try to straighten the bent frame.



To the best of my knowledge most engine bars attach to the frames.:gunhead:
 

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In the middle of nowhere, 3 am, I'd rather have a lightly bent frame than half of my valve cover in pieces. I'll get lots farther down the road with a bent frame than with no oil in the engine.
 

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Give me my engine guards every day. Without them and the guards around the saddle bags (panniers, isn't that what you call them over there?) my 1200 would lay over to the handle bars when it decides it's time to lay down.

Sure is alot easier to get up from the 45 degree angle that it would being laid out flat.
 

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Monkey with a Football
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I hated the way the aftermarket bars were on the GL1000 and promptly had them off.

My first GL1000 didn't have them and it was never a problem.
Just avoid dropping the bike.
 

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Well I am short.

I get tip toes only on the ground on my 1000's so when they start to go over I only have a second to catch them.I drop a bike at least once a year. I have engine guards on all mine.
 

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I wouldn't know where to mount my high-way boards with-out them...:cheeky1::cheeky1: :gunhead:
 

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This looks good for a start.

I agree that a slide in the middle of no where is a problem but me question was about the rebuild after. When i'm looking at the damage after the slide that bent frame would cause me the most problems.

Sorry to those with the dressed up types but I guess I was thinking of the gl1100 and gl1000 with no frills.

It's all personal choice and all the above reasons are very valid.

for the moment I will stick to my guns.

Oh and yup we call them panniers. It's the loose leather ones that throw over we call saddle bags!!
 

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Actually, a minor bend in the downtube is easily straightened to "good enough" standards with a little heat, and a come-along or porta-power. If you bend the lower area of the frame under the engine, that whole section can be unbolted and replaced.

You drop your bike on a valve cover at any kind of speed and you're most likely going to be replacing the head and other things as well. The valve cover will disintegrate from the weight and impact (that's the majority of a 600lbs bike coming down on about 24 square inches of thin aluminum) leaving the bike laying on the valves. The timing belts aren't strong enough to lift the bike on the valves, so in the revolution or 10 that it will take the bike to shut down, the valves will be pinned shut, and the pistons on that side will hammer into them repeatedly destroying valves, heads, pistons, pushrods, crank...

We all roll the dice every time we start our bikes. I just prefer to not deliberately throw snake eyes if I can avoid it.

Mike
 

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If you drop it in a relatively slow speed situation it just drops on the bars. What damage would be done to the valve cover, transfered to the cylinder or framein that sithuation without the barsis speculative. I've never had any. What happens at high speed isquestionable because all bets are off anyway.

I havehad unfortunate incidents twice on a 79 CBX( in 79/80) at 60mph or so and both broke off the tail lights but the bike slid on the bars and was not damaged.Now there was dangereous motor.

I admit I don't like the flare out on my 1100 bars because it makes it hard for my reverse gear.LOL, dj
 

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Mike
As ever you speak with a lot of sense and obvious knowledge of the subject. I will not fault that. My only comment is that over here I understand that the lower frame sections are no longer available. That would still slant my bias towards keeping them off.

Oh yes when your looking at the carnage after the fall a mangled motor is very depressing.

The ones I took off mounted to the point where the removable frame met the main frame and also to the down tubes. On looking at these sites on my bike they looked weak and the loss of the "prone to rust badly", removable section without hope of findind a replacement was the most worrying. I also couldn't help noticing whilst it was in bits being restored that the down tube was thinner than I expected and rust on the inside was a problem.

The affects of the over salting of UK roads in the winter periods certainly leads to this removable section proving to be this bikes main weak point.
 

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For the removable section, if yours look bad enough to cause you concern, and you can't find suitable replacements in a re-cycle yard, I would suggest pulling one off while they're still in decent shape, and heading for a machine shop with it. I'd bet that they could make you up a replacement that you could paint semi-gloss black and use in place of an OEM unit.

The down tubes might be a bit more tricky as it would require complete stripping out of the fame, and taking it to a shop that had good framing jigs to have the originals cut out and new welded in...However I believe before I did that I'd be searching Flea-Bay and re-cycle yards for a complete used replacement frame in good shape.

Mike

Mike
 

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I have rebuilt several removable frame sections. Some flatsteel and a couple of hours with a welder and I can make them stronger than new.

I really agree with Mike on this. Even a modest hit on the belt covers or valve covers will cost you a lot of money and down time. If you hit a case guard hard enough to bend the frame odds are you are going to be requiring medical assistance and worrying about a frame is not going to be a big issue.
 

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Village Whack Job...
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A bent frame on an Older GoldWing isn't necesarrily a big deal. As long as it does't affect the alignment (including the drive shaft) it's not really worth worrying about.
 

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I'm convinced. Case closed. Thanks for all the imput It was very useful. I think the bars will go back on. At the very least the issue of the removable side piece gave some very useful ideas.

Thanks again all. Ta Ta for now.
 
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